What have you done to your Freelander today

My 17" wheels felt a lot different to drive than the 16's, think they have a slightly different offset?

Epicuser said:

What is the best way to unblock the tubes?

Click to expand...

I used a long bass guitar string. It's a lot thiner than curtain wire but you are still able to push it along a tube without kinking it.

But first try dribbling a small quantity of water from a jug into the corners of the surrounding channel - the painter area of the frame aperture. It should dribble out from behind the front wheel's mud flap if all is well.

htr said:

I used a long bass guitar string. It's a lot thiner than curtain wire but you are still able to push it along a tube without kinking it.



But first try dribbling a small quantity of water from a jug into the corners of the surrounding channel - the painter area of the frame aperture. It should dribble out from behind the front wheel's mud flap if all is well.

Click to expand...

Is that where they all go, or just the fronts?

I think, at the moment, the leak was due to very heavy rain coming through the seal which needs cleaning properly.

What is the best stuff to clean rubber seals?

Epicuser said:

Is that where they all go, or just the fronts?

I think, at the moment, the leak was due to very heavy rain coming through the seal which needs cleaning properly.

What is the best stuff to clean rubber seals?

Click to expand...

When I had my s'roof to bits and the F' gaurds off I saw where it drains to. The front corners drain to behind the mudflap. The rears I'm not sure about.
The seal is glued onto the edge of the metal frame. It doesn't seal against the painted car body. The glass, its frame and the seal shed water to that painted area where it should run to the corners and then down the drains.

What may be happening is the metal frame could be rusty / rusted under that seal allowing water through and onto the side of the opening - hence damp/wet hood lining. If that seal has bumps along it or in a few areas then those may well be rust areas beneath

That was the situation with mine and the metal s'roof frame is shot at the front corners and either side Being some years younger yours may be less affected.

My FL1 is gone off for work before NCT on Friday (Irish MOT)

After the alternator failed last week decided to fit a VDO voltmeter to lower dash to help keep an eye on things, and one of my headlamps had blown so replaced both with Osram night breaker unlimited ones.

Bring on the long winter nights...

NeedleNose said:

After the alternator failed last week decided to fit a VDO voltmeter to lower dash to help keep an eye on things, and one of my headlamps had blown so replaced both with Osram night breaker unlimited ones.

Bring on the long winter nights...

Click to expand...

pictures would be nice...

Offering it up:



At night, engine running:

saw something like that before

Yeah it's a good match and a good fit there (if you don't need the ashtray...).

I had Terrain Vehicles replace a driveshaft, rear wheel bearing,propshaft UJ, overhaul the rear brakes and change the diff oil. No time and too cold to do myself.

Epicuser said:

I had Terrain Vehicles replace a driveshaft, rear wheel bearing,propshaft UJ, overhaul the rear brakes and change the diff oil. No time and too cold to do myself.

Click to expand...

Quite a major transmission overhaul. On top of your drop links & CV a couple of weeks ago, the old girl has cost you a few quid of late.

Yep. 😭

GrumpyGel said:

Quite a major transmission overhaul. On top of your drop links & CV a couple of weeks ago, the old girl has cost you a few quid of late.

Click to expand...

The CV boot is part of the driveshaft assy. The drop links were done a few months ago and the track rod ends have both been done this year.

So really, all I have had done is 2 driveshafts, drop links & track rod ends, VCU bearings and a new UJ on the end of the propshaft, along with s rear wheel bearing.

Feels like a different car!!

Epicuser said:

Feels like a different car!!

Click to expand...

A lot smoother and quieter presumably

GrumpyGel said:

A lot smoother and quieter presumably

Click to expand...

Oh yes. (Say that with a Churchill dog voice )

NeedleNose said:

After the alternator failed last week decided to fit a VDO voltmeter to lower dash to help keep an eye on things, and one of my headlamps had blown so replaced both with Osram night breaker unlimited ones.

Bring on the long winter nights...

Click to expand...

What are the bulbs like? Mine need changing for something brighter. Was considering hids but not sure about fitting them in reflector headlights

Gaj1612 said:

What are the bulbs like? Mine need changing for something brighter. Was considering hids but not sure about fitting them in reflector headlights

Click to expand...

I don't know yet, had a week off so no night driving until tomorrow. They do look whiter though.

NeedleNose said:

I don't know yet, had a week off so no night driving until tomorrow. They do look whiter though.

Click to expand...

Fair enough. Could you let me know if there's much improvement from the old bulbs please

Atb

Gaj1612 said:

Fair enough. Could you let me know if there's much improvement from the old bulbs please

Atb

Click to expand...

I'd be interested to know too.
Does anyone else find that fl1's have crap main beams?
Mine is terrible especially driving at twilight/night?