What have you done to your Freelander today

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Whats the fuel consumption like? Does the exhaust smoke more than normal?

It is a little bit more smoky yes.

Can you access the engine control module, As you mentioned that icarsoft did not show this???

No codes are showing at all, iCarsoft only showed ABS and Immobiliser modules. Tried another generic engine tool and that doesn’t come up with any codes
 
No codes are showing at all, iCarsoft only showed ABS and Immobiliser modules. Tried another generic engine tool and that doesn’t come up with any codes
You should take it down to a (indie) Landie garage and get them to read the codes - on a no win no fee basis!

Will tell you if your device is faulty or the car.
 
I posted the motor to gearbox coupler to Ali this morning, so once his welding is done, he'll be able to drive the FL1 TD4 gearbox, with the Leaf motor.
 
I'm really looking forward to receiving it John and will hopefully get a look at it this weekend. I'm thinking I might need to do a bit more grinding back of the motor and IRD casings to make them fit side by side as the last time I worked at them I was using a makeshift coupler. Yours will allow much more precision. ;)
 
All the pressure is on me not to cock it up when welding it
I'm sure it'll be fine Ali. The motor is only good for something like 300Nm, so it won't take much weld to hold against that. Just take your time, and use plenty of arm support. ;)
Does anyone think John didn't do a good job?
Me? :p
It's difficult to do a job like this remotely, as I couldn't line the shafts up to try it. I'm pretty sure the splines are running concentric, at least to within about a couple of thou. My small lathe can't hold accuracy much below that, at least not on hard steels.

I'm sure it'll be ok though, and if it's not, I can always make it again. ;)
 
I'm sure it'll be fine Ali. The motor is only good for something like 300Nm, so it won't take much weld to hold against that. Just take your time, and use plenty of arm support. ;)

Me? :p
It's difficult to do a job like this remotely, as I couldn't line the shafts up to try it. I'm pretty sure the splines are running concentric, at least to within about a couple of thou. My small lathe can't hold accuracy much below that, at least not on hard steels.

I'm sure it'll be ok though, and if it's not, I can always make it again. ;)
I'm pretty sure it will be OK John.
I wouldn't have sent it to you if I had any doubts. :)
 
Whipped off the drums to clean the rear brakes and free up sticking shoes, amongst other things in preparaation for the eigth MOT (in my ownership) on Monday. Eek.
 
I started to rebuild the replacement rear diff for my FL2.
Lots of cleaning, and more cleaning, then oiling the bearings for the rebuild using a new Timken tail bearing.
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I also took the opportunity to fit a drain plug, although I've gone with a small M6 thread drain plug, fashioned out of a stainless steel dome head Allen bolt. I've fitted a micro magnet to the drain plug too.
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Whipped off the drums to clean the rear brakes and free up sticking shoes, amongst other things in preparaation for the eigth MOT (in my ownership) on Monday. Eek.
You're keen :D

I just the the WOF person safety check my car. I might check the bulbs are working and there's water in the washer bottle, but that's about it. As they are 6 monthly checks, I'm confident they'll pick up anything I might find, and confident the car's not in to bad condition either. I was looking at my car's WOF history in my 10 years of ownership and because of this its not particularly great...

https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=xp5492

That's missing the last 2 tests, which were a fail on the diff front mount and a pass.

The others have been a leaking brake cylinder, a fraying seat belt (they were being really anal with that 1), an engine mount (which I replaced but the new one was miles worse than the old so that went back on and has passed many tests since!), tyres.

That then goes back to 6 years ago and I can't recall what they were - I don't recall it ever failing on anything difficult/major to fix.

She's been an awesome motor.

Mind you, they can't check emissions on a '99 diesel truck - or else I'd be in trouble!
 
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Finished rebuilding my replacement FL2 diff, so hopefully that'll quiet when it goes back in. I took the opportunity to fill the Haldex with most of its fluid too, to save a bit of time when putting the diff back in.
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Hopefully I'll get it back in next weekend, weather permitting.
 
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a untidy toolbox is a untidy mind:)
Mate - you're gonna need a straight jacket for me using that logic. :eek: When I put tools back into my boxes, they are wiped down and lined up within the drawers like tinsoldiers on a parade ground, but mid-task? Not so much, any flat surface is fair game for tools to be piled up on.
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If you look at the toolboxes and workbench in the background, I reckon the average depth of deutritus is ~15cm across that 3.6m run. What can I say? I was busy...
 
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