What have you done to your Freelander today

Yes, no turn clunking, it doesn't get hot no matter what I use it for, and all seems good with it. TBH the whole pro looks in really good condition, like its a refurb or something, but obviously the bearings said otherwise. They are not so bad to work on i feel, very roomy.....well apart form the water pump :$

Lewall said:

Yes, no turn clunking, it doesn't get hot no matter what I use it for, and all seems good with it. TBH the whole pro looks in really good condition, like its a refurb or something, but obviously the bearings said otherwise. They are not so bad to work on i feel, very roomy.....well apart form the water pump :$

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You might want to read a bit more about testing VCU's. They always look like new but that means nothing.

Did a defender upgrade to my new FL XE yesterday. It came with no radio so I acquired a 2014 Defender unit for a good price. As expected, it has less functionality and performance than the older Freelander one would have had, but it looks OK.

Now I have a better understanding of why Defender owners are always a bit grumpy....

Alibro said:

You might want to read a bit more about testing VCU's. They always look like new but that means nothing.

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Yes I have done, the jack up and weight test, it doesn't get hot after a drive, i figured that and the fact now the bearings are done and it sounds great, it must be ok...for now anyway

Nodge68 said:

Finally finished the MOT "to do" list. Just in time to give the old girl a wash and wax.

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wash?
Wax??
I've managed to wash mine twice since I got it. Lol, it just got its third wash a couple of weeks ago at the paint shop so I'm good for another year.

htr said:

wash?
Wax??
I've managed to wash mine twice since I got it. Lol, it just got its third wash a couple of weeks ago at the paint shop so I'm good for another year.

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Ah but they salt the roads here in winter, so a polish is necessary for protection

Lewall said:

Yes, no turn clunking, it doesn't get hot no matter what I use it for, and all seems good with it. TBH the whole pro looks in really good condition, like its a refurb or something, but obviously the bearings said otherwise. They are not so bad to work on i feel, very roomy.....well apart form the water pump :$

Click to expand...

The VCU should warm up in use. If it stays cold, that's a sign its past its best.
You need to do the one wheel up test, to make sure it's not to stiff.

Had a visit from @Tony Reeves yesterday to help swap the seat cushion over from the passenger seat on my parts car to the daily drive's drives seat. I hadn't really thought about how a car seat is constructed before - turns out they're quite interesting

When Tony left we'd removed the cushion & cover from the parts car seat. I was going to give it a wash/clean and then at some point, strip the daily drive's seat. However, I couldn't wait, and stripped that as well - so daily drive is immobile now till I can get some time to put it all back together again So, the "backup Starlet" will see some use for a couple of days.



The cushion with its covering basically sits on the seat base frame (which I suppose ain't rocket science!). Along the sides and front/back of the cover are plastic strips that clip over lips on the frame to hold the cushion and cover in place. The side ones pull off quite easily, but the front and back are right buggers, they're like this...



The little hookey bit at the top is the bugger because the frame has bits that poke out, so you can't just pull the plastic clips off - they have to be opened up so the hookey bits don't catch - and they are about 400mm long. I was wondering what I had that was the right size to open them up and long enough to poke right through. In the end I found the perfect tool - a fishing rod I found an old spinning rod and tried the top end first - but it wasn't wide enough to open the clip sufficiently - so tried the bottom end and it was the perfect size I had to remove the ring from it, but it was an old kids rod that will never be used for fishing again, so now has a new use.

GrumpyGel said:

Had a visit from @Tony Reeves yesterday to help swap the seat cushion over from the passenger seat on my parts car to the daily drive's drives seat. I hadn't really thought about how a car seat is constructed before - turns out they're quite interesting

When Tony left we'd removed the cushion & cover from the parts car seat. I was going to give it a wash/clean and then at some point, strip the daily drive's seat. However, I couldn't wait, and stripped that as well - so daily drive is immobile now till I can get some time to put it all back together again So, the "backup Starlet" will see some use for a couple of days.

View attachment 108034

The cushion with its covering basically sits on the seat base frame (which I suppose ain't rocket science!). Along the sides and front/back of the cover are plastic strips that clip over lips on the frame to hold the cushion and cover in place. The side ones pull off quite easily, but the front and back are right buggers, they're like this...

View attachment 108037

The little hookey bit at the top is the bugger because the frame has bits that poke out, so you can't just pull the plastic clips off - they have to be opened up so the hookey bits don't catch - and they are about 400mm long. I was wondering what I had that was the right size to open them up and long enough to poke right through. In the end I found the perfect tool - a fishing rod I found an old spinning rod and tried the top end first - but it wasn't wide enough to open the clip sufficiently - so tried the bottom end and it was the perfect size I had to remove the ring from it, but it was an old kids rod that will never be used for fishing again, so now has a new use.

Click to expand...

400mm ???

Can you post some more images of the construction without the beer spilt all over the lens please ?

No, seriously - I would like to see more detail of how it is attached ..
Also, I presume the seat has to be removed from the car ? (on the Panda the base can be un-clipped in the car)
I would like to do this to mine as the side of the drivers squab near the door (LHD) is a bit flatter than it should be - 210K Km of getting in and out I suppose. It feels as if I am sat on a lump of hard stuff on the left 'cheek'

Joe_H said:

400mm ???

Can you post some more images of the construction without the beer spilt all over the lens please ?

No, seriously - I would like to see more detail of how it is attached ..
Also, I presume the seat has to be removed from the car ? (on the Panda the base can be un-clipped in the car)
I would like to do this to mine as the side of the drivers squab near the door (LHD) is a bit flatter than it should be - 210K Km of getting in and out I suppose. It feels as if I am sat on a lump of hard stuff on the left 'cheek'

Click to expand...

Here's a pic of it upside down - you can see the long "clips". If you have a look at the seats in your car, you can see/feel the clips - basically just follow the material down to where it finishes.

On the parts car, I took the whole seat out. On the daily drive I just took the plastic bits and the seat back off - leaving the base in-place. I also had to remove the center cubby box so that I could get to the plastic bit and cover clip in the middle.

THB - taking the whole seat out allows you to turn the base over to get a better view of what you're doing with the clips - however, the base then moves around as you're pulling and swearing at the clips. With the base still fixed to the car it doesn't move about and you don't have to break the clip holding the SRS pretensioner wire to the seat. You can't get to the back clip from outside (the B pillar is in the way), but with the seat back and the other forward, you can get to it from the other side (to push fishng rod, sorry clip removal tool, into the clip).

GrumpyGel said:

Here's a pic of it upside down - you can see the long "clips". If you have a look at the seats in your car, you can see/feel the clips - basically just follow the material down to where it finishes.

On the parts car, I took the whole seat out. On the daily drive I just took the plastic bits and the seat back off - leaving the base in-place. I also had to remove the center cubby box so that I could get to the plastic bit and cover clip in the middle.

THB - taking the whole seat out allows you to turn the base over to get a better view of what you're doing with the clips - however, the base then moves around as you're pulling and swearing at the clips. With the base still fixed to the car it doesn't move about and you don't have to break the clip holding the SRS pretensioner wire to the seat. You can't get to the back clip from outside (the B pillar is in the way), but with the seat back and the other forward, you can get to it from the other side (to push fishng rod, sorry clip removal tool, into the clip).

View attachment 108041

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Ta,
How thick does the 'special tool' need to be ? I have some 400/500 mm stainless 3mm rod ?

I presume the 'clips' are the 2 sides and front and back ?

Where did you put your rod (oooo err missus) .. I don't quite understand what you did with your fishing rod - did you use it as a 'bar' to spread the whole length of the catch in one go ?

There's 1 long clip at the back, 1 long and 2 short ones at the front plus a long and short one on each side. The side ones come off easy.

I basically pushed the 'tool' inside the clip, starting at 1 end all the way through to the other. You push it in and it goes as far as the first notch on the frame lip. You then pull the clip down a bit over that notch and push the tool along to the next notch - and repeat.

Without the tool, it is difficult getting the clip over the first notch, then you move the the next, which is more difficult and eventually the clip slips from your hand and it all springs back onto the lip and you have to start again - grrrr.

3mm is to small, I'll go measure the tool later, but probably about 6mm is what you need. The fishing rod is great - its stiff enough to push through, but has some flexibility - and it has a handle

TBH, I'm not really sure how Tony and me managed to get the clips off the first seat without the tool! I do know though that it drew blood in the process of fighting with the clips!

It looks similar the the MGF seats I swapped over for a similar reason. Be prepared for lots of swearing and cut fingers.

Actually @Joe_H a 3mm rod might be a better idea - the further I pushed my tool in, the stiffer it got.

Now now - no dirty smut, I'm serious here Let me put it a different way...

It did get quite difficult to push my tool with a big girth in more than 1/2 way.

This isn't getting any better is it!

What I mean is, it may be better with a narrower rod, but it needs to be wider at the end, or use it to push something through that is the right size to open the clip up - as you pass each notch, the clip is over that one, so you just move down to the next.

I'm not sure stainless is the right material though, its rather brittle and may snap. You do have to pull down on the clip and use the tool to keep the clip down so there are some sideways pressure applied to it as well.

GrumpyGel said:

Had a visit from @Tony Reeves yesterday to help swap the seat cushion over from the passenger seat on my parts car to the daily drive's drives seat. I hadn't really thought about how a car seat is constructed before - turns out they're quite interesting

When Tony left we'd removed the cushion & cover from the parts car seat. I was going to give it a wash/clean and then at some point, strip the daily drive's seat. However, I couldn't wait, and stripped that as well - so daily drive is immobile now till I can get some time to put it all back together again So, the "backup Starlet" will see some use for a couple of days.

View attachment 108034

The cushion with its covering basically sits on the seat base frame (which I suppose ain't rocket science!). Along the sides and front/back of the cover are plastic strips that clip over lips on the frame to hold the cushion and cover in place. The side ones pull off quite easily, but the front and back are right buggers, they're like this...

View attachment 108037

The little hookey bit at the top is the bugger because the frame has bits that poke out, so you can't just pull the plastic clips off - they have to be opened up so the hookey bits don't catch - and they are about 400mm long. I was wondering what I had that was the right size to open them up and long enough to poke right through. In the end I found the perfect tool - a fishing rod I found an old spinning rod and tried the top end first - but it wasn't wide enough to open the clip sufficiently - so tried the bottom end and it was the perfect size I had to remove the ring from it, but it was an old kids rod that will never be used for fishing again, so now has a new use.

Click to expand...

Great description Grumpy.

I bet you even comment your code - I could never come to grips with the * function, found it ran fine without it

GrumpyGel said:

Actually @Joe_H a 3mm rod might be a better idea - the further I pushed my tool in, the stiffer it got.

Now now - no dirty smut, I'm serious here Let me put it a different way...

It did get quite difficult to push my tool with a big girth in more than 1/2 way.

This isn't getting any better is it!

What I mean is, it may be better with a narrower rod, but it needs to be wider at the end, or use it to push something through that is the right size to open the clip up - as you pass each notch, the clip is over that one, so you just move down to the next.

I'm not sure stainless is the right material though, its rather brittle and may snap. You do have to pull down on the clip and use the tool to keep the clip down so there are some sideways pressure applied to it as well.

Click to expand...

I used long nose pliers on mine, but did crack a bit. Maybe preheating the plastic strips with a hot air gun would help. I suspect the strips were more pliable when they came out of the factory.

Another thing, when swapping passenger squab to driver's side, 2 holes for the side plastic finish up on the wrong side. I used a bit of material from the discarded seat to slip under the existing holes, then cut new holes in the other side. Use the side plastic as a guide.

Ideally, I guess, there would be an export/import market for LHD passenger squabs.

Joe_H said:

400mm ???

Can you post some more images of the construction without the beer spilt all over the lens please ?

No, seriously - I would like to see more detail of how it is attached ..
Also, I presume the seat has to be removed from the car ? (on the Panda the base can be un-clipped in the car)

Click to expand...

I did suggest cutting a hole in the floor and "doing it from underneath", an approach probably favoured by Series and Defender owners, but the seat was out when I got there.

Tony Reeves said:

I used long nose pliers on mine, but did crack a bit. Maybe preheating the plastic strips with a hot air gun would help. I suspect the strips were more pliable when they came out of the factory.

Another thing, when swapping passenger squab to driver's side, 2 holes for the side plastic finish up on the wrong side. I used a bit of material from the discarded seat to slip under the existing holes, then cut new holes in the other side. Use the side plastic as a guide.

Ideally, I guess, there would be an export/import market for LHD passenger squabs.

Click to expand...

Or, RHD passenger squabs
I tell you what - I had a marvellous idea - I will swap you my lhd lh squab for your rhd lh squab ..........................

Oh Grumpy one... - the rods are actually some fancy stuff - they will definitely not break - made out of the same stuff that the guide rods on 3d printers / routers are made from. I bought them years ago to use as slide guides for a small cad/cam pcb router but in the end just bought a large bed one lol.... (I still have a brand 'normal' 3d printer *Wanhau Duplicator 4X* in the box form nearly 2 years ago, still haven't unpacked properly since moving.)..

GrumpyGel said:

Had a visit from @Tony Reeves yesterday to help swap the seat cushion over from the passenger seat on my parts car to the daily drive's drives seat. I hadn't really thought about how a car seat is constructed before - turns out they're quite interesting

When Tony left we'd removed the cushion & cover from the parts car seat. I was going to give it a wash/clean and then at some point, strip the daily drive's seat. However, I couldn't wait, and stripped that as well - so daily drive is immobile now till I can get some time to put it all back together again So, the "backup Starlet" will see some use for a couple of days.

View attachment 108034

The cushion with its covering basically sits on the seat base frame (which I suppose ain't rocket science!). Along the sides and front/back of the cover are plastic strips that clip over lips on the frame to hold the cushion and cover in place. The side ones pull off quite easily, but the front and back are right buggers, they're like this...

View attachment 108037

The little hookey bit at the top is the bugger because the frame has bits that poke out, so you can't just pull the plastic clips off - they have to be opened up so the hookey bits don't catch - and they are about 400mm long. I was wondering what I had that was the right size to open them up and long enough to poke right through. In the end I found the perfect tool - a fishing rod I found an old spinning rod and tried the top end first - but it wasn't wide enough to open the clip sufficiently - so tried the bottom end and it was the perfect size I had to remove the ring from it, but it was an old kids rod that will never be used for fishing again, so now has a new use.

Click to expand...

I've used re-modelled bicycle spokes for that sort of thing in the past. Kid's bikes are always missing one or two - they never noticed and extra on missing!

Now having read the whole process I see that my bike spoke idea wouldn't apply. In the past I've used them to reach tricky springs / clips that need to be pulled back into position.... They are quite tough, won't bend easily and the hook you make won't straighten out under 'load'.