What Guage?

Got a Blank on my defender where the clock goes.

Dnt need or want a clock but the blank looks odd,
what should i fill it with ?

Anyone done this, fitted other gauges i only have the space
for one dial/gauge so what one would you recommend?

Sam

Hey sam, how about a boost gauge? or oil pressure, volt gauge etc?

Just got your pm, sadly i'm not selling those tyres anymore, sticking with the same size instead of going bigger.

Hows your 90 going? I'm guessing you've picked it up now? Can you stick some pics up ?

Harry

Just fitted a boost gauge to my Ninety - was pretty easy and makes for interesting viewing!

Or - how about more power sockets or switches? See MudStuff

Or - how about another clock???

Boris113 said:

Hey sam, how about a boost gauge? or oil pressure, volt gauge etc?

Just got your pm, sadly i'm not selling those tyres anymore, sticking with the same size instead of going bigger.

Hows your 90 going? I'm guessing you've picked it up now? Can you stick some pics up ?

Harry

Click to expand...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/my-new-me-90-a-124729.html
Couple of pics here

I was thinking a boost gauge is there one that fits nicely into the holes in a fender dash? I.e the Clock hole.

instantsquid said:

Just fitted a boost gauge to my Ninety - was pretty easy and makes for interesting viewing!

Or - how about more power sockets or switches? See MudStuff

Or - how about another clock???

Click to expand...

Got a MUD Console in the center so cant put extra switchs n sockets
want somthing that will fit nicly in the fender dash next to the temp gauge.

Thinking a boost Gauge anyone no of one that fits nicely in the clock hole ?

I think the hole is 52mm isn't it? In which case most TIM, VDO, etc. gauges will fit. My boost gauge is a TIM one - was £25 ish.

The thing is, if you don't like the look of the blank will you like a gauge that doesn't exactly match the original ones???? Genuine options are clock, voltmeter or oil-temperature and all will match the existing ones.
I got rid of my oil-temperature gauge and fitted a voltmeter as I found it more useful.

id like a pod with a volt gauge and maybe oil temp in and itd be good if the boost gauge that i have would fit in it, 52 or 54mm i think it is. going into a disco 1. anyone have a pic of what they got they wouldnt mind puttin up and maybe a link to where to get it???

ta muchly

instantsquid said:

I think the hole is 52mm isn't it? In which case most TIM, VDO, etc. gauges will fit. My boost gauge is a TIM one - was £25 ish.

Click to expand...

Cool i shall look into tbh i havnt even removed the blank to measure or av a look, just wondered if anyone had done it and what they did.

Litch said:

The thing is, if you don't like the look of the blank will you like a gauge that doesn't exactly match the original ones???? Genuine options are clock, voltmeter or oil-temperature and all will match the existing ones.
I got rid of my oil-temperature gauge and fitted a voltmeter as I found it more useful.

Click to expand...

Umm dunno mayb ill try n find summat that matches
Think a voltmeter would be the most useful out of those mentioned.

Use it as a bogey collecting pit, we've all got one. Havent we?

LeadFarmer said:

Use it as a bogey collecting pit, we've all got one. Havent we?

Click to expand...

nice idea .... I guess

But i want somthing that moves and lights up n stuff oh yeh and of
course as a geniune purpose

Another daft question here...

I've seen voltmeters fitted before, but would someone kindly explain why they're useful? I.e. what do I gain by knowing there's currently 12.4V or 11.8V coursing thru my bus?

The three Gauges next to the Speedo are standard 52mm diameter.

There are plenty of useful Gauges to choose from -

Oil Temperature, Oil Pressure, Volt Meter & Rev Counter are available as Genuine land Rover Parts, but are bluddy expensive

The older (pre-Defender) Land Rover Gauges were Lucas/Smiths, the later ones are VDO.

VDO Gauges are available as after-market fitment, for much more reasonable money than Genuine Parts, their 'Vision' range is a very close match visually for factory fitted Gauges -






Have a look at these suppliers -

VDO, Smiths, Racetech, Stack, Telemetrix, Elliot, Mocal & SPA Gauges

https://www.europaspares.com/GAUGES/


Europa also do a range of 'Leather Grain' Pods for 1, 3 or 4 additional Gauges, that are a close match for the Defender Dash's finish -

. .

https://www.europaspares.com/GAUGES/PODS/52mm_GAUGE_PODS___LEATHER_GRAIN_EFFECT_1964.html

.

if yu only have 11.8 Volts, your battery and alternator are fuct.
it gives yu a window on to the state of charge of the battery(ies).

"Another daft question here...
I've seen voltmeters fitted before, but would someone kindly explain why they're useful? I.e. what do I gain by knowing there's currently 12.4V or 11.8V coursing thru my bus?"

Just this week I have found a voltmeter to be of great use.

The charging system on my 300TDi 90 seemed to be working fine but over the past week or so I noticed that although the alternator was charging (you could see the voltage rise as the exciter circuit cut in and the charge warning light went out) the needle on the voltmeter didn't seem to rise quite as high as normal. I connected a multimeter and found that at times the alternator was not producing more than 13V so although it was supporting the battery, I was not getting full charge. Ocassionally the full voltage of 14.2V was produced which put the voltmeter needle into its normal position.
Luckily I had already ordered myself a nice new Denso 100A alternator as I wanted to upgrade from the 65A unit so I fitted it today (as the swop was forced onto me earlier than expected I did not have a chance to replace the alternator cabling but that will be done in due course) and needless to say that I am now getting a reliable 14.2V and the needle is back where it had been.

A side issue is that since I noticed the voltmeter needle was occasionally not rising to its normal position the coolant temperature gauge also read high and almost sent the needle into the red. It took me a few heart pounding moments to establish that the cooling system was ok and it was actually the lower voltage making the gauge read high, when charging correctly the temperature gauge sits in the normal position.