What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Excellent and thank you for sharing your experience 🫵😎👍
Has anyone ever had the one way valve in their ABS pump fail?

Since i got my P38, when the ABS pump is not running it would make a very soft rythmic ticking. So making an edjucated guess i thought it was the one way valve that was leaking and then allowing pressure from the resevior to force the pump to rotate in reverse. The pump would run and then shutdown and immediately start its ticking noise and probably about 3min later it would run again (without the brakes being used at all).

So i got hold of a pump with a failed motor along with a preassure switch for quite cheap. So i built my motor over into the new pump and installed it last night. Im quite happy to say my guess was correct, the issue was the one way valve as the new pump doesnt make the ticking noise and i left it for about an hour without the pump running again after first building pressure.
 
As promised before and after piccies
 

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Apparently, almost all the stuff I ordered beforw and during our summer vacation, ehich is ending tomorrow unfortunately, has been delivered. My catsitting dad was so kind to also take delivery for that. He just told me that it looks like christmas with all the parcels. I have a bad feeling about my wifes reaction when we come home... It was quite a lot of stuff, warning lights, tools, bolts and fasteners, an exhaust, some hoses, bits for the fuel system, a book or two...

The tank guard and diffs aren't even delivered yet! 🫣😁
 
Apparently, almost all the stuff I ordered beforw and during our summer vacation, ehich is ending tomorrow unfortunately, has been delivered. My catsitting dad was so kind to also take delivery for that. He just told me that it looks like christmas with all the parcels. I have a bad feeling about my wifes reaction when we come home... It was quite a lot of stuff, warning lights, tools, bolts and fasteners, an exhaust, some hoses, bits for the fuel system, a book or two...

The tank guard and diffs aren't even delivered yet! 🫣😁

Tell her most of it is packaging to protect it.
 
Remind me again, cats sleep. A lot!

Turned out that picking up where you left before a three week vacation, and a night drive back home, is a bad idea. The horn is installed (bolt one), the diff switch retainer around the gear lever is installed (bolts 2 - 9), the cable that goes to the fuel pump is crimped on one end and connected to the harness (cost me three bullet connectors unzil I fugured out how thosr are crimped) and that is it.

Oh, I forgot: the rear liscence plate wiring is a major PITA. Got the plus wires connected, got one negative connected, and pulled that one back ingo the tailgate by accident when I gave up and wanted to connect the mass wires above the tailgate itself. Well, off it goes tomorroew trying to pass two wires through it without resorting to an angle grinder.

Not a very productive day. Oh, and the routing at the rear end, close to the exhaust and above / behind the fuel tank sucks. It is either removing the exhaust (happens anway to install the large bore one) and fuel tank (maybe, why not?) ot routing them behind the rear bumper (either with or without a protective tube, maybe one of those flexible stainless steel ones). Not sure about that, because I also have to connect the trailer plug somehow. The bumper is easier, and better for future accesibility, behind the fuel is tge proper way to do it. I am torn, propably take the bumper route for now. Any thoughts on that?

Hopefully, I can connect everything to the point I can test the new harness and and run the engine again. Not too optimistic, we will see.
 
Remind me again, cats sleep. A lot!

Turned out that picking up where you left before a three week vacation, and a night drive back home, is a bad idea. The horn is installed (bolt one), the diff switch retainer around the gear lever is installed (bolts 2 - 9), the cable that goes to the fuel pump is crimped on one end and connected to the harness (cost me three bullet connectors unzil I fugured out how thosr are crimped) and that is it.

Oh, I forgot: the rear liscence plate wiring is a major PITA. Got the plus wires connected, got one negative connected, and pulled that one back ingo the tailgate by accident when I gave up and wanted to connect the mass wires above the tailgate itself. Well, off it goes tomorroew trying to pass two wires through it without resorting to an angle grinder.

Not a very productive day. Oh, and the routing at the rear end, close to the exhaust and above / behind the fuel tank sucks. It is either removing the exhaust (happens anway to install the large bore one) and fuel tank (maybe, why not?) ot routing them behind the rear bumper (either with or without a protective tube, maybe one of those flexible stainless steel ones). Not sure about that, because I also have to connect the trailer plug somehow. The bumper is easier, and better for future accesibility, behind the fuel is tge proper way to do it. I am torn, propably take the bumper route for now. Any thoughts on that?

Hopefully, I can connect everything to the point I can test the new harness and and run the engine again. Not too optimistic, we will see.
Forget th3e metal tube, use plastic, much safer in the case of wires chaffing.
 
True that! Found some heat-protective tubing that is also used as a general wiring protection. And it is much cheaper! We'll see tomorrow, if I ge to the point of testing and the test is successfull! Fingers crossed, because I found a set of Black-White wires in the engine bay, right next to the fuse box, that seem to be connected to the brake sensor. or rather should be, as I already have two of those going to the brake cylinder as they did with the old harness. I'll just leave those blank, I have no idea what they do.

Missing wiring tasks: tail lights and liscense plate lights, trailer plug, some earth wires at various places, the connectors under the steering wheel, the parking brake sensor (that#s the black-pink one under the transmission tunnel if memory serves well) and those for the gearbox oil temp sensor. Then hooking it back up to a battery, and hopefully everythin works as planned. if so, attach everything properly and wait for the new rear diff. If not, well... But of course everything will work, right? Right? :cool:
 
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