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I can't imagine there's no breaker to isolate the battery before you start any works on the rest
What did you do with your Range Rover today
- Thread starter Dopey
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Usually jumper links to split the battery into smaller & lower voltage sections. There will also be a main contactor to isolate the battery from the BMS when required.
Many now have low voltage jumper somewhere to allow emergency services to force the main contactor off & cut the power.
Many now have low voltage jumper somewhere to allow emergency services to force the main contactor off & cut the power.
rich28uk
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Got mine back on the road, ended up buying sort of by accident of a mate a 11reg merc E350cdi, new for me as iv never had 3l v6 diesel, saloon, or merc or rear wheel drive. Lovely car on motorway, very quiet and RWD was fun on damp corners but recommissioned the 4.2 Sc L322 today, other half was going mad that I’d not sold it - never bothered to advertise it and decided other week even though I like the merc just didn’t click with it like I do the RR even though it’s more maintenance and more rust etc there is something about them.
Anyway took it out for fuel after MOT and proper howl noise sounded like brake or something and other half found it was her front passenger window down a mill or two causing it, I’m guessing MOT tester didn’t let it go right up.
On another note mercs are expensive on parts, air flow meter (2 built in the air intake pipe) £800+ vat! The rangie with its V8 only has 1 air meter, also a right pain to work on, not designed to be fixed.
Anyway took it out for fuel after MOT and proper howl noise sounded like brake or something and other half found it was her front passenger window down a mill or two causing it, I’m guessing MOT tester didn’t let it go right up.
On another note mercs are expensive on parts, air flow meter (2 built in the air intake pipe) £800+ vat! The rangie with its V8 only has 1 air meter, also a right pain to work on, not designed to be fixed.
Datatek
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The engines are not too hot these days, crank failures, oil pump failures, cracked heads etc. and look at how short lived are the suspension bushes on a modern Range Rover.
Datatek
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It's not the current that is the problem, it's the 400 plus volts that can jump out and take you by surprise.
I wonder if there really is a mechanical circuit breaker rather than isolation via ECU and semiconductors?
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I would hope so, but wouldn't be surprised if not.. i mean these things never fail, right?
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
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Now that's a good point. MCB and RCDs would be the sensible option. No brainer when you stop and think about it. Surely they must have them?
rich28uk
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Was talking to mate of mine yesterday who said why would I recommission my 4.2v8 over the much cheaper to run E class, I said look at the cost of repair on them and issues diesels can have over petrol, and in Land Rover world there is plenty of 2.7/3.0v6 and 3.6tdv8 and a few 4.4tdv8s all spare or repair with words like “engine knocks” “runs but overheats” “starts but pours out clouds of white smoke” etc the fuel saving on diesel is soon gone when anything happens and seems that the 4.2v8 is most reliable probably because the engine can be traced back over a few decades where jag kept refining it and ironing out any issues.
Prep day to tackle the main harness tomorrow. That meant removing the front carpets, seat and cubby box. Turnes out you do NOT have to remove the heater unit, the harness passes well between the heat the bulkhead. Also, all connections to the gear box, diff, hand break, reverse and the like, are acessible through maintenance hatches on the transmission tunnel. As someone who manages these kind of things for two odd years now prefessionally, kudos to the LR engineers back the day.
I did discover two things: one thick white wire is not connected to anything on the old harness, something to figure out tomorrow. According to the wiring diagram, that should be the fuel pump. Well, that's the plan for the weekend.
And two, she still leaks in the left front foot well. I already plugged a whole, that didn't fix it. Good thing it will be raining until next weekend, so plenty of opportunity to try and figure out where the leak is coming from. Pedal and walls are all dry, I assume it could be the radio antenna...
Anyway, just finished on time zo get back inside before a nice thunderstorm. Should be like that all weekend. But hey, everybody can repair cars in a nice, heated and dry garage, right?
I did discover two things: one thick white wire is not connected to anything on the old harness, something to figure out tomorrow. According to the wiring diagram, that should be the fuel pump. Well, that's the plan for the weekend.
And two, she still leaks in the left front foot well. I already plugged a whole, that didn't fix it. Good thing it will be raining until next weekend, so plenty of opportunity to try and figure out where the leak is coming from. Pedal and walls are all dry, I assume it could be the radio antenna...
Anyway, just finished on time zo get back inside before a nice thunderstorm. Should be like that all weekend. But hey, everybody can repair cars in a nice, heated and dry garage, right?
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hmm? antenna?
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They are running hotter than ever now for the emissions, hence the coolers and heat exchangers bolted to everything
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They are running hotter than ever now for the emissions, hence the coolers and heat exchangers bolted to everything
- Posts
- 13,845
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- Sud ouest France !
À "Different years" thing again 
So, no quick fixes. Couple of reasons: some of the connectors of the head lamps and side indicators are not great, so to do it propably bullet connectors are the way to go. Then there I need to plug a new wire between the fuel pump connector on the engine harness, ending up on top of the gearbox, and the fuel pump sitting on the left front inner wing. Again, with bullets.
So I decided to also do the altenator wiring properly. The crimp for that is easy enough to come by. The bullet crimp not so much. I could order one from the UK, which will never arrive in time before we leave on vacation. And since we go to Scotland, I'll just buy one over there.
So I decided to also do the altenator wiring properly. The crimp for that is easy enough to come by. The bullet crimp not so much. I could order one from the UK, which will never arrive in time before we leave on vacation. And since we go to Scotland, I'll just buy one over there.
Was generally scrolling as u do and saw this, thought what a gorgeous colour and interior, still with actual dials 
, 8 x speed and the very nice tft display which I’ve seen on some models where u can have the sat nav display in full display mode
Looking through the petrol models I didn’t realise some have a 3.0 v6 supercharged engine , wonder if that’s the same that fitted in the D5 as head there suppose to be one the very good engines
Of course well out my price range but just though how extremely nice it was
Do think the FFRR styling looks considerably nicer than the RRS, plus often wondered if the monocoque design has alot less rust issues over the earlier chassis and body design on the D3/4 etc
, 8 x speed and the very nice tft display which I’ve seen on some models where u can have the sat nav display in full display modeLooking through the petrol models I didn’t realise some have a 3.0 v6 supercharged engine , wonder if that’s the same that fitted in the D5 as head there suppose to be one the very good engines
Of course well out my price range but just though how extremely nice it was
Do think the FFRR styling looks considerably nicer than the RRS, plus often wondered if the monocoque design has alot less rust issues over the earlier chassis and body design on the D3/4 etc
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