What did you do with your Range Rover today

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dubbleRR said:
Just a wee update :D,,I changed the green sensor on my dse 2.5 about 10 days ago or so n i can report ,Its not revving all by itself,slight high idle and the glow light coming on when warm ,hot ,gear changes are smother ,and mpg has slightly improved ;)..thats me second one in 9 years,.....The car was lazy on gear changes, ,lumpy when starting from hot n smoky ,,idle would change all by itself and it would randomly change from lockup to 4th n back again at 55mph or so,now its so smooth you forget how good they can be,i was useto the way it drove ,changed that sensor n its night n day ,,,,ha the wife thinks my driving has improved cause the cars smoother ,,,, :mad: ..muttering swear words.:mad:.
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Never changed any sensors. Beginning to wonder if I should biy some before they become "obselete".
 
plumbfisher said:
Sorry, I missed what the problem was originally but I'm intrigued... which wee green sensor? sounds like a magic fix!
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As datatek said ,its the second one on the head ,which tells the ecu things,,,the first time it went ,9 years ago ,my gear changing was lazy changing at 3000 rpm ,this time as said previously it was bringing my glow light on when engine was warm it started with gear changer were rough ,in fact the were all over the place ,just randomly changing for no resin ,but its all good now , ;)
 
Had to fix somthing while giving it another service, lower thermostat hose leaking well it wasn't even the hose a rubber o ring inside of it,
Bad one on the left,
Wasn't that bad of a leak level had dropped from max to min approx 1700miles in 2 week when i last checked,
Snapchat-187166761.jpg
 
kermit_rr said:
had a rummage in live data with SDD, can't see any reference to a battery count, just the option to reset the BMS yes or no
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When I replaced the battery I distinctly remember commenting that it was the third battery to be fitted so maybe IID shows it somehow. But lots have happened since 2019;).

if yours was "supposed" to be new in Dec, did they reset it or just fit it? I wouldn't think it would hurt to reset if its that new.
If its old and possibly failing anyway what would it do? Apart from make you do it :).

Does it actually look new?

J
 
marjon said:
When I replaced the battery I distinctly remember commenting that it was the third battery to be fitted so maybe IID shows it somehow. But lots have happened since 2019;).

if yours was "supposed" to be new in Dec, did they reset it or just fit it? I wouldn't think it would hurt to reset if its that new.
If its old and possibly failing anyway what would it do? Apart from make you do it :).

Does it actually look new?

J
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i dont know if they actually put a new one in, or if they reset it
it doesnt look that old, but doesnt look 'out of place' shiny new either :D
 
Grrrrrr said:
**** the oil leaks. Drove the 220 miles to Fleetwood with no issues whatsoever. Lovely when it works
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I’m with you on that, I’ve just picked up a bottle of that Lucas stop leak stuff that I’ve heard many good things over the years about. Obviously not a permanent fix. But I don’t much fancy trying to do the crank seal as from what I understand it’s beyond tight.

Mainly gonna try it while I decide whether I’m keeping it or not, gonna wait for the oil to get a bit a lower first so I can stick the whole bottle in to give it the best chance. Speaking of which does anyone know how much oil it takes between the min and max marks on the Thor 4l dipstick? Sitting about 3/4 of the way at the minute so I doubt I’ll get anywhere near the full litre in.

So far so good on the coolant not pressuring since I changed the thermostat I hadn’t had any loss of coolant either well it seems like I may have lost some when I drove it Monday and then checked it today but only a small amount probably around 100ml if that couldn’t spot a leak anywhere but probably just a bit of air made it’s way out finally is all I reckon.

Still going through the motions for the rma on the nanocom, got given the Id for it the other day by bbs so it means I could register it in mine name and have the unlock codes but waiting for them to get back to me on the rma details now.
 
kermit_rr said:
'kinell.. insurance prices have gone up!! everything is at least double last year and i've even had 2 say nope not interested, too high a risk
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Car insurance wasn't too bad this year but cheeky gits have put house contents up by 50%! Considering 30% of cost is 'fees', they seem to be charging for thin air.
 
Khemitude said:
I’m with you on that, I’ve just picked up a bottle of that Lucas stop leak stuff that I’ve heard many good things over the years about. Obviously not a permanent fix. But I don’t much fancy trying to do the crank seal as from what I understand it’s beyond tight.

Mainly gonna try it while I decide whether I’m keeping it or not, gonna wait for the oil to get a bit a lower first so I can stick the whole bottle in to give it the best chance. Speaking of which does anyone know how much oil it takes between the min and max marks on the Thor 4l dipstick? Sitting about 3/4 of the way at the minute so I doubt I’ll get anywhere near the full litre in.

So far so good on the coolant not pressuring since I changed the thermostat I hadn’t had any loss of coolant either well it seems like I may have lost some when I drove it Monday and then checked it today but only a small amount probably around 100ml if that couldn’t spot a leak anywhere but probably just a bit of air made it’s way out finally is all I reckon.

Still going through the motions for the rma on the nanocom, got given the Id for it the other day by bbs so it means I could register it in mine name and have the unlock codes but waiting for them to get back to me on the rma details now.
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Not sure but usually about a litre.
 
1988smithy said:
Wew, yam yams am yam yams an brummies am brummies! Dow lump me in wi' yem lot! :p
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Typical brummie trying to deny they’re a yam yam.
kermit_rr said:
What does everyone else pay for in-sewer-ants?
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On the freelander I was with Adrian flux it was costing about £550 though that was paying monthly I think it was around £450 if I could pay the year out in one go. That’s fully comp can drive other cars on it aswell as I pay an extra £2.50 a month that makes the other car cover fully comp so if I was to have an accident while driving someone else’s car and it was my fault their car would get repaired/paid out too which I’ve never known any other computer to offer that as it’s normally 3rd party cover on other cars that’s assuming they even cover driving other cars in the first place. That’s with 2 years no claims as lost all mine when my xtrail deciding to set itself on fire back in mid 2020 while driving it. It was pretty much the same the year before with them aswell with just the 1 year no claim. Plus I’m on the younger side compared to you lot no offence so no doubt that’s working against me by a huge margin.

The p38 did put it up by about £280 but that was a mid term change that let’s be honestly normally get stung extra for plus that’s spreading the cost over the remaining months left to pay as I basically pay 10 months and am covered for 12 so I only had 5 months of payment s left to pay. So not sure what they are gonna charge for the full year on renewal.

Also I have two additional drivers on mine but when I took the policy out with them the first time they said having the extra drivers won’t give me discount or increase premiums as they were solely basing the risk on me being the main driver.

Though I specifically have it under specialist 4x4 policy with them so not just standard car insurance. To put it in perspective when they were offering £450 for the year the cheapest on comparison sites for normal insurance was coming up as £900 minimum.
 
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