What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Grrrrrr said:
You need the drivetrain loose. For rear prop get a rear wheel off the ground and get the stands in for safety. Get underneath and shake, twist and rattle that prop shaft. There should be no movement at all in the joint. There's a link to a YouTube video in my Hardy-Spicer thread from a few months ago. Then the same for the front but with a front wheel in the air. Might as well check the viscous coupling while you are doing it. Viscous should turn very slowly with about 70nm on the Torque wrench.

Grease gun. You sometimes have to turn the prop to get in at the right angle. 3 nipples per prop.
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Ok thanks Grrrr I'll get to that this week and report back
 
Datatek said:
Ideally you need to check what the current drain is rather than looking bits of masking tape.
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Many apologies for not coming back again..(unexpected visitors arrived so not allowed to play ..). But, the ' bits of tape' had constant readings over the period, to give me an idea of any patterns. Anyway, may have found the fault. Emptied half a can of electrical contact cleaner down the ignition barrel and a good squirt of Chinese graphite powder. To date, nearly a week of healthy battery and no voltage fluctuations.
 
So, on the way to the test centre the suspension beeped a warning all lights flashing and then they stayed on - guy at the station said its not a problem as long as the car is on its bags and level which it was - and then the thing promptly ran out of petrol - the gauge reads half full when brimmed (not got round to it yet!) and I thought there was about a third of a tank full in it.....
So, yes another fine outing partly my own fault, though. Even with the lights on the suspension still seemed to be operating normally, compressor running, little occasional adjustment clicks now and again - so some research required as this is a fault which I have to date not had thrust upon me.
Off to the French alps for a couple of weeks now - it'll be there when I get back - they don't tend to mend themselves.
 
Grrrrrr said:
See post #17, first video here:

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/hardy-spicers-ujs.333956/
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Good videos. Having greased mine 2 - 3 weeks ago I can say they are not worn, I couldn't wobble / twist anything. I tried! When I researched the P38 prop shaft short nipple issue I ground down my grease gun and got to the nipples in the narrow gap it took some force to get the black, solid crap to come out. All nice and honey coloured now.
 
Mukiwa said:
Finally finished the full service today, after stupidly filling both diffs with ATF last night as I was getting tired. Now full of gear oil and Lucas treacle. Now that the new shocks and airbags have bedded in it drives better than it ever did! I park on my drive and hit the "get up there!" button and it jumps to full height now. Happy camper indeed.
To do:
  • Find the bloody metallic rattles underneath at the back. It's not the wheel well heatshield - I've fixed that
  • Report that foreign truck for firing a stone chip on the motorway and chipping my heated windscreen (NS)
  • HEVAC flaps that keep sticking (NS)
  • Headliner
  • hi/low transfer not changing at standstill and no cog lights on the dash - very low priority right now. It changes on the move
Click to expand...

Try looking at the height sensor arms. I've finally worked out what my rattle was.
 
Mukiwa said:
Good videos. Having greased mine 2 - 3 weeks ago I can say they are not worn, I couldn't wobble / twist anything. I tried! When I researched the P38 prop shaft short nipple issue I ground down my grease gun and got to the nipples in the narrow gap it took some force to get the black, solid crap to come out. All nice and honey coloured now.
Click to expand...

Yes, quite often the little ball in the hole of the grease nipple seems to jam. Getting a small nail or piece of wire and pushing it in (it should be sprung) until it moves freely and then putting the grease gun on, pushing firmly as you squeeze the trigger and pump can help.
 
I have also now put rubber caps over all the grease nipples to cure the "crap in the hole" problem :cool: And they haven't been flung off yet. I have taken it to a relatively questionable velocity to test if they stay on. Ahem...

I'm working by the way not sat here bored hahaha.
 
Replaced both front britpart shock with boge shocks. Much better. Now off to get a Viscous fan as mine decided to seize yesterday.
 
Concluded my rear diff is goosed the rear near side wheel bearing is fine, i dissconnected the prop spun both wheels offside no issues nearside loud binding noises and vibration threw the axle and up the shock.
Sending my original diff in for a rebuild
 
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