- Posts
- 31,415
- Location
- North Shropshire
They can simply be dirty inside and not making good contact
Edit: just seen your other post
What did you do with your Range Rover today
- Thread starter Dopey
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Edit: just seen your other post
badfluffy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,655
- Location
- northampton
spent the day welding up the jacking point and wheel arch, just got to paint it now
- Posts
- 4,459
- Location
- Rotherham
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 43,956
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
- Posts
- 31,415
- Location
- North Shropshire
Anyone know what Lin Bus A is? Apparently mine has a short 
- Posts
- 18,963
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Anyone know what Lin Bus A is? Apparently mine has a short
Spunds like part of yhe can-bus system? @Saint.V8 played with that on his L322.
- Posts
- 31,415
- Location
- North Shropshire
I had the dreaded key issue again.. i wonder which is the root cause? Rf receiver breaking the lin bus or damaged lin bus stopping the rf?
LIN & CAN are both data networks, different speeds and different functions. LIN is single wire, CAN is two. Which module is complaining? A 'short' to positive or ground just means there is no data, it doesn't always mean a physical short - it could also be a component has failed holding the LIN high or low.
- Posts
- 31,415
- Location
- North Shropshire
It could be the rf receiver that's intermittently dying then?
- Posts
- 31,415
- Location
- North Shropshire
It's working this morning again after a sleep
Yes, or the LIN line chafing on the body etc. Is it the one on the tailgate? if so, check the wiring through the flexible isn't damaged or corroded, also check the 12 & 0V lines are OK
- Posts
- 31,415
- Location
- North Shropshire
I thought it was in the roof? Near the rear dome light cluster?
What should i be looking at in the tailgate?
If it won't unlock then it's the one on the tailgate that is about the size of an old tape cassette, if it's the keyless start not working, then it's the one above the headlining.
Intermittent faults can be the worst to nail down, try tracking the conditions when it doesn't work to try and calculate the best time to test when it isn't working (temperature / weather / time since last use / battery voltage etc.) I had one years ago that only faulted if the car was parked in a certain spot, turned out the reflected heat from the sun was warming the roof up in just the 'wrong' spot, causing the module to shut down.
Intermittent faults can be the worst to nail down, try tracking the conditions when it doesn't work to try and calculate the best time to test when it isn't working (temperature / weather / time since last use / battery voltage etc.) I had one years ago that only faulted if the car was parked in a certain spot, turned out the reflected heat from the sun was warming the roof up in just the 'wrong' spot, causing the module to shut down.
- Posts
- 31,415
- Location
- North Shropshire
It's both that don't work, or both that do work so unlikely to be both having an intense fault at the same time.
It stopped working yesterday at home.. opened and started the car as normal, moved it around then switched off and locked. Came to it a couple of hours later and it wouldn't unlock or start.. nothing else had changed eg weather, location etc not even gone over a bump to move something
Then you need to be looking for anything common to both receivers - power, data line, ground point... It's unlikely to be the key(s) as the two systems operate separately, I'm assuming you've checked the battery contacts in the key for corrosion and fit? If everything except the CJB/BCM is OK, then by elimination, that can be the only cause (other than the keys or interference) as it's common to both systems.
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 842
- Location
- Manchester
Went for a comfortable waft to the brother in law's, via a garden centre cafe. Still throwing the pressure switch issue with EAS about 5 to 10 miles from first start, but behaving perfectly otherwise.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 43,956
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Could actually be the driver pack playing up.
- Posts
- 4,459
- Location
- Rotherham
Changed R/H blower motor. Nice day took my time and all sorted, well for now it is.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 10,653
- Location
- Shropshire
Took my rear bumper off to sort the lower tailgate rubbing on it.
One clip that clamps the plastic bumper skin to the steel bumper itself had come loose and I repositioned the others so that's all good now. Made an access hole so I can manually open the lower tailgate if it fails electrically.
I've got the leaky number one injector problem back again, thought that was fixed and it has been fine for a good while to be fair.
I seem to have 2 issues with it, leaking compression air from around the threads on the head, that's had a good looking at and two new copper washers but that leak has returned and, secondly, it looks like the nipple on the injector that takes the spill back to the fip has an issue and is weeping fuel and letting air in. Its a bugger to start so I'm using the 110 until a used but good injector arrives this week.
Although the head seat was spotlessly clean and looked fine I'm going to have that seat recut I think and another new copper washer.
Wonder if the copper washers that were recommended on a p38 facebook site are rubbish, I've used 2 of the 6 supplied so far so it's them or the injector seat or possibly the injector itself, I did have to dress off a small burr on the injector where the washer sits the second time I tried to fix it and thought I had.
Book symbol is permanently on where as only cold damp weather made that happen and it disappeared once a little warth was in the cabin. New zebra strip sorted that last year but its on permently now regardless of the weather or cabin heat. Not investigated that yet.
One clip that clamps the plastic bumper skin to the steel bumper itself had come loose and I repositioned the others so that's all good now. Made an access hole so I can manually open the lower tailgate if it fails electrically.
I've got the leaky number one injector problem back again, thought that was fixed and it has been fine for a good while to be fair.
I seem to have 2 issues with it, leaking compression air from around the threads on the head, that's had a good looking at and two new copper washers but that leak has returned and, secondly, it looks like the nipple on the injector that takes the spill back to the fip has an issue and is weeping fuel and letting air in. Its a bugger to start so I'm using the 110 until a used but good injector arrives this week.
Although the head seat was spotlessly clean and looked fine I'm going to have that seat recut I think and another new copper washer.
Wonder if the copper washers that were recommended on a p38 facebook site are rubbish, I've used 2 of the 6 supplied so far so it's them or the injector seat or possibly the injector itself, I did have to dress off a small burr on the injector where the washer sits the second time I tried to fix it and thought I had.
Book symbol is permanently on where as only cold damp weather made that happen and it disappeared once a little warth was in the cabin. New zebra strip sorted that last year but its on permently now regardless of the weather or cabin heat. Not investigated that yet.
- Posts
- 31,415
- Location
- North Shropshire
Book symbol is a dodgy blend/distribution motor
