What did you do with your Range Rover today

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kermit_rr said:
When i changed mine it was pretty dry, I'd gone for a drive to warm it a bit, loosened the filter housing then sucked the oil out via the tube. By the time I'd got to taking the filter out it looked similar. Not dry, but everything that could have dripped out had done so. It's thin oil so doesn't take long
Mine is the 4.4
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Thats reassuring, thanks 👍🏻 I've read r.e the oil light issue that cheap filters can cause it so I'll report back

How's the 4.4 to drive? The 8 speed box is meant to be really nice..?
 
1988smithy said:
Thats reassuring, thanks 👍🏻 I've read r.e the oil light issue that cheap filters can cause it so I'll report back

How's the 4.4 to drive? The 8 speed box is meant to be really nice..?
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Generally, it's lovely, very easy and predictable.
Sometimes I'll catch it out and it'll slam hard into gear, i don't know if that's me or if it's aTC problem, though there's no bad noises or slipping etc so it's probably just me.
Maybe I'm not used to diesels yet but it can rev out far too quickly in lower gears
 
kermit_rr said:
Generally, it's lovely, very easy and predictable.
Sometimes I'll catch it out and it'll slam hard into gear, i don't know if that's me or if it's aTC problem, though there's no bad noises or slipping etc so it's probably just me.
Maybe I'm not used to diesels yet but it can rev out far too quickly in lower gears
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whats the mileage?

Might be ripe for a service.
 
Henry_b said:
whats the mileage?

Might be ripe for a service.
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103500 ish. Could be, it's on my to-do list.
I think it's when the TC is unlocked, ie, slow down until the engine revs are around 1000-1100 then get on the gas.. er.. diesel again and it can feel like someone's driven in the back of you.. like it's selected neutral, you've asked for power and it suddenly slams into a gear.. if you drive slower.. give it a second to sort itself out, it doesn't happen
 
Henry_b said:
whats the mileage?

Might be ripe for a service.
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Plan on doing mine
kermit_rr said:
103500 ish. Could be, it's on my to-do list.
I think it's when the TC is unlocked, ie, slow down until the engine revs are around 1000-1100 then get on the gas.. er.. diesel again and it can feel like someone's driven in the back of you.. like it's selected neutral, you've asked for power and it suddenly slams into a gear.. if you drive slower.. give it a second to sort itself out, it doesn't happen
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Because it also does exactly this 😅
 
kermit_rr said:
103500 ish. Could be, it's on my to-do list.
I think it's when the TC is unlocked, ie, slow down until the engine revs are around 1000-1100 then get on the gas.. er.. diesel again and it can feel like someone's driven in the back of you.. like it's selected neutral, you've asked for power and it suddenly slams into a gear.. if you drive slower.. give it a second to sort itself out, it doesn't happen
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A service and adaption reset should cure that issue.
 
1988smithy said:
Plan on doing mine

Because it also does exactly this 😅
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On the 6hp you should also do the bridge and dowel seals, ZF lifegard 6 only and the fill procedure has to be followed to the letter.

The slamming in to gear issue or "lurch" as it is known amongst ZF circles and is usually cured with an adaption reset.
 
The price difference between a genuine filter and a knock off is peanuts, same as when buying oil, why skimp when you can buy really good oil for about 20% more? Good new oil or risk damage to the engine by using cheapo? No brainer!
 
nevillen said:
The price difference between a genuine filter and a knock off is peanuts, same as when buying oil, why skimp when you can buy really good oil for about 20% more? Good new oil or risk damage to the engine by using cheapo? No brainer!
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Fully agree, genuine filters only 20 quid

P.o carried out service before sale so probably aftermarket filters
 
kermit_rr said:
When i changed mine it was pretty dry, I'd gone for a drive to warm it a bit, loosened the filter housing then sucked the oil out via the tube. By the time I'd got to taking the filter out it looked similar. Not dry, but everything that could have dripped out had done so. It's thin oil so doesn't take long
Mine is the 4.4
Click to expand...
So you use an extractor as well? The only reason I originally purchased one was because ours has 'additional' armour plating under the sump, it was an export model to Australia and the person who ordered it from new added it as an extra...I know as it is on the original build sheet. Point is it is attached with a lot of bolts and I have a very very bad back which required radiology treatment meaning laying underneath the motor was not an option. But given the choice I would now use the extractor instead of the sump plug, it is so much easier and cleaner.
 
nevillen said:
We just did a six month interim service today on our 2006 3.0 TDi Range Rover Vogue, used the extractor pump to change the oil, wish I had owned one back in the day! Immaculate change absolutely NO oil spillage on the driveway or anywhere else, possibly the best £40 that I have ever spent of vehicle service gizmo's.
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Do you have a link? I usually get an armful of dirty oil & a puddle on the garage floor when I change the oil on my P38.
 
I got one of these for £15. bit slow but works ok
1685860043973.png
 
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nigelbb said:
Do you have a link? I usually get an armful of dirty oil & a puddle on the garage floor when I change the oil on my P38.
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Here you go:

flintronic 12V/80W Oil Change Pump Extractor with Tubes, Oil/Diesel Fluid Extractor Pump, Oil Suction Pump, Changing Engine Oil Transfer Pump for Truck Rv Boat ATV Auto Car Motorbike​


Currently £20 once you use one of these you will wonder why you haven't used one before! There will be some who say that you don't properly empty the sump without removing the drai plug, they are wrong! You actually clear out more crud with an extractor than by using the drain plug...it is why garages use them instead.
 
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