What did you do with your Range Rover today

So drivers kick panel removed and found connectors wet through, dried them out and were back in business. Just got to find the leak now

stemac33 said:

So drivers kick panel removed and found connectors wet through, dried them out and were back in business. Just got to find the leak now

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Probably leaking under the scuttle. There's a few seals that a suspects, let water into the blower area

stemac33 said:

OK done microswitches, all put back together and Nada again. No ignition, dash lights nothing.checked and cleaned earth's and locks still cycling with ignition off but stop when key turned to position 2.
Any ideas
Cheers

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The tailgate button is also run through the drivers door lock that can cause problems, but the missing volts will not help one bit.

stemac33 said:

So drivers kick panel removed and found connectors wet through, dried them out and were back in business. Just got to find the leak now

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The white connectors in the kick panels are best cut out and the wires soldered and heat shrinked they are only there for factory assemble.
but sort the leak as well

kermit_rr said:

I've got some high temp silicone, says good for oil and maintenance fluids... Will it be ok with petrol, it will that melt it?

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Silicone tube breaths diesel fumes, car stank after a while when I tried it. It does not actually leak just lets fumes through.

stemac33 said:

Yeah change them, on further investigation the dash does light up but is very faint and I'm only getting 9v on the main feeds to fuse box under drivers seat

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Have you actually checked the battery voltage? Otherwise, check the feed to the under bonnet fuse box is tight.

marjon said:

Talking petrol Mark no separate fans as they are both up in front of main rad. but yes has a temp sensor.

J

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Got yeh. Derr

Mark Piercy said:

Got yeh. Derr

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but you were right on colours and it being on the side



J

Passenger seat fuse-20 has been blowing regularly. Removed the two under-seat relays, and it still blew randomly. Traced to the lumbar pump wiring.

Disconnected it, because I could not be bothered to remove the seat back cover. Seat motors all working again - passenger will have to do without lumbar pump !!

Datatek said:

Silicone tube breaths diesel fumes, car stank after a while when I tried it. It does not actually leak just lets fumes through.

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It's the float chamber on my series, the cap is warped so not clamping on the seal enough. Daren't try and straighten it.
I've used the sealant I've got, it'll either work or it won't. At least it's not under any pressure

kermit_rr said:

It's the float chamber on my series, the cap is warped so not clamping on the seal enough. Daren't try and straighten it.
I've used the sealant I've got, it'll either work or it won't. At least it's not under any pressure

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How warped?
Flat both with emery?.

Is it a paper gasket? get some thicker material.

J

Datatek said:

Have you actually checked the battery
voltage? Otherwise, check the feed to the under bonnet fuse box is tight.

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Hi data yes new and charged mf31-1000. I found water in some connections in drivers kick panel so dried them off and cleaned up aswell as earth's.
The three lives under the engine fuse box, do they just feed the interior fuse box?, if so I was losing 3v along the way. Now got 12.9 all I did was remove them to check for corrosion and put them back.

marjon said:

How warped?
Flat both with emery?.

Is it a paper gasket? get some thicker material.

J

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This much.... " " Can you see?

I could measure it, maybe a mm? It's a square section rubber o ring

kermit_rr said:

This much.... " " Can you see?

I could measure it, maybe a mm? It's a square section rubber o ring

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A bit of flat plate with emery, what have you got to lose dude

stemac33 said:

Hi data yes new and charged mf31-1000. I found water in some connections in drivers kick panel so dried them off and cleaned up aswell as earth's.
The three lives under the engine fuse box, do they just feed the interior fuse box?, if so I was losing 3v along the way. Now got 12.9 all I did was remove them to check for corrosion and put them back.

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The connections do corrode, so removing and refitting them often sorts the problem.
As others have said, the white connectors need to be cut out, the wires soldered and insulated with glue filled heat shrink tube.

Mark Piercy said:

A bit of flat plate with emery, what have you got to lose dude

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Or thick glass as a surface plate.

well cleaned the blue plug and gearbox seemed to behave the same anyway worth a shot though.

Found out the sponge material under the carpet drivers side is soaking wet, squeezing it seems to be clear and no sweet smell to it. O rings appear to be fine on the heater matrix and the spong material seems to be fine on that side section just below them so not coming from there, Looks like I'm missing the drain pipes that come out of those rubber bungs either side of the transmission tunnel though, but I haven't got working ac as there isn't a condenser on the car so I wouldn't have thought it would be from that.

Pulled off the kick panel passenger side and found an aux cable that seems to go towards the back. Was having a root round because yesterday out of nowhere sub decided it was going to start popping.

Khemitude said:

Do you happen to have a picture of the top of the engine bay where the dipstick comes up? I’ve got a lot of lpg gubbins bolted around mine, so unsure if they would actually end up being in the way of where it would come up.

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This is on Otto - GEMS rather than Bosch, so different plenum, etc. Autobox dipstick is the orange knob, above the plenum inlet and in line with the shiny aircon pipe.
Tube for it runs down between back of engine and bulkhead, to the gearbox.

kermit_rr said:

Yea, if it's critical, it gets torqued, if it's not important so much then it gets nipped up. I won't have torqued a drain plug and I'd be nervous on the thread hence tenancy to under tighten.

My dad is the opposite, if in doubt then tighten it some more then curse for a week when the thread strips. Don't get me started on that

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If in doubt, cross drill, undertighten and lockwire / pin.

kermit_rr said:

This much.... " " Can you see?

I could measure it, maybe a mm? It's a square section rubber o ring

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Make a thinnish cork gasket too? That should take up the space / compress the rubber and be petrol resistant.