Flossie
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- 10,612
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- Shropshire
What did you do with your Range Rover today
- Thread starter Dopey
- Start date
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- 31,271
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- North Shropshire
Brill thank you, i can feel 'add to basket' in my future!!
Any reason i can't drive with the sensor out? Appreciate will have no abs or traction so need to drive carefully. Will take the fuses out as well
Flossie
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- 10,612
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- Shropshire
You may/will struggle to get the hub off, I did. The recognised method is to wack the disc, that didn't work for me and I had to use a puller. I have my old disc and the puller if you need to borrow.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
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- 18,611
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- wirral and triquivijate
Item number 3322771941403 on the Bay £12.Got the bastid out!! And found, as i suspected, it was ok.
The problem? Cracked reluctor ringis that a whole new hub i need? :'(
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- North Shropshire
Just saw that one hahaItem number 3322771941403 on the Bay £12.
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- 31,271
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- North Shropshire
How much of a big deal is it to get to this point? Does it just unbolt or do you need to split the upper and lower ball joints first? If it's the latter, i might farm the job out
they need replacing anyways and don't fancy doing that one 
- Posts
- 18,943
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Looks like it was used a cement mixer for 20 years,
- Posts
- 18,943
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Well, I cannot see how you get this f*cker apart! I'm going to have to read RAVE and look for clues.
In other news the pipes are dry as a bone. So it looks likeit is the matrix that is stuffed, at least that's where it is leaking from if I could only get inside.
My o-ring pipes don't look like the v8. There's no screw, there's some sort of cover and I cannot see fo tthe life of my how they are fasted or accessible - even with all the vents removed. So a bit of research required there too. Maybe the '95 cars are different or someone took it apart in the past and modified it. Either way the pipes are solid and dry as a bone.
EDIT: looks like you have to cut a bracket. I was trying to avoid that. I don't like the idea so I'll have a think. Some good photos here: http://www.brazeauracing.com/rangerover/heater/index.html
http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/heater-core-replacement-audi/
Last edited:
brianp38dse
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- 19,557
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- heathrow
I believe unless you want to cut the frame and lower the steering column its a dash out job
- Posts
- 18,943
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I believe unless you want to cut the frame and lower the steering column its a dash out job
Yeah, that's what it is looking like but I'm cogitating!
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- 31,271
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- North Shropshire
Well I've been to get petrol.. geez that's gone up again!! Obvious abs and tc lights on but the world didn't end.
I don't really have a choice unless i book the week off work with a sickie
I don't really have a choice unless i book the week off work with a sickie
Flossie
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- 10,612
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- Shropshire
Balljoints stay in place. 4/5? Bolts at rear of hub to release the hub from the carrier, big nut on driveshaft, obviously caliper, disc off. I have the tools to get the nut off too that you can borrow.How much of a big deal is it to get to this point? Does it just unbolt or do you need to split the upper and lower ball joints first? If it's the latter, i might farm the job out
Got the tool to do the upper and lower balljoints too.
Horrible job mind.
Flossie
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- Shropshire
If you look at my pic up there^^^^^ you will see the holes that the bolts go through to hold the hub on.
Datatek
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- 43,884
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- Near Poitiers SW France
The ring is part of the CV joint. You need the CV joint, a new boot and the fastening clips.Got the bastid out!! And found, as i suspected, it was ok.
The problem? Cracked reluctor ring
Undo the big not on the end of the shaft before you do anything. Then remove the hub and shaft assembly. Pull the shaft out of the hub, very easy.
To get the CV joint off the drive shaft, cut the boot off, then hold the shaft vertically in a vice with the CV joint down, hold the end of the CV joint straight and give the face of the CV joint a good whack, make take more than one attempt, the CV joint should come away. Keep the snap ring and don't lose the silver collar. To re-assemble, boot on first, put the silver collar on the drive shaft then fit the snap ring, use the silver collar to compress the snap ring, slide CV joint onto shaft which will push the collar back releasing the snap ring to lock the shaft. Check that the CV joint will not pull off.
Fill the CV joint with the special grease it comes with making sure it's worked well into the bearings. Refit shaft to hub and put the big not on finger tight. Refit hub and shaft assembly. Tighten the big nut using about 4ft of scaffold pole
I don't know the torque but it needs to be bloody tightOops, that's for the front, looks like you are doing the rear, sorry.
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I think as long as you can get at least two bolts n nuts either side of frame cut line, should be solid enough. Don't think I'd rely on self tappers.
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I am indeed doing the front! And the ring is an interference fit which can be put on separately, found one that fits.. ebay special..The ring is part of the CV joint. You need the CV joint, a new boot and the fastening clips.
Undo the big not on the end of the shaft before you do anything. Then remove the hub and shaft assembly. Pull the shaft out of the hub, very easy.
To get the CV joint off the drive shaft, cut the boot off, then hold the shaft vertically in a vice with the CV joint down, hold the end of the CV joint straight and give the face of the CV joint a good whack, make take more than one attempt, the CV joint should come away. Keep the snap ring and don't lose the silver collar. To re-assemble, boot on first, put the silver collar on the drive shaft then fit the snap ring, use the silver collar to compress the snap ring, slide CV joint onto shaft which will push the collar back releasing the snap ring to lock the shaft. Check that the CV joint will not pull off.
Fill the CV joint with the special grease it comes with making sure it's worked well into the bearings. Refit shaft to hub and put the big not on finger tight. Refit hub and shaft assembly. Tighten the big nut using about 4ft of scaffold pole
Oops, that's for the front, looks like you are doing the rear, sorry.
I think I'll have a go at it
Checked the hub nut and it's well rusted
I've got a 3 foot breaker bar and some long tube
Datatek
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- Near Poitiers SW France
The ring looked like part of the CV joint on mine and at €45 it was not worth messing about especially as the joints have done 140K miles.I am indeed doing the front! And the ring is an interference fit which can be put on separately, found one that fits.. ebay special..
I think I'll have a go at it
Checked the hub nut and it's well rusted
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- North Shropshire
That's a fair point, no clue if mine have ever been replaced
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 43,884
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- Near Poitiers SW France
I would add that the whole lot was as rusty as feck, could hardly see the teeth on the ring
Flossie
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- Shropshire
To add- I couldn't get my sensors out of either front hub which meant trying to remove the hub with the sensor ' locking' it in place, removal of the hub meant tearing the steel shroud at the same time as withdrawing the hub. You have the sensor out so hub removal will be easier. You can see the hole in the shroud that the sensor goes through.
