What did you do with your Range Rover today

gold rover said:

Got system read, and reset today.
Anyone know what this means, measures approx as it is several hours and an emergency vet visit since readings, : both front sensors reading around 3 volt. Rear left 1.7 approx, rear right, which had dropped 0.6 approx.

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The 1.7 and 0.6 are they volts or MM, and having read your reply to my post re diagnostics think you better bite the bullet and go Gap iid. Now wheres @backinblack @stustrong and @Saint.V8 when you need them my brain not working as it should right now.

RangeRoller dt said:

Not sure about th V8 but on diesel they are silly money. Half the reason people **** up adapt to electric fans. You need it though, perhaps it will behave betterer with a new one, you have mentioned the sporadic heat anomaly since you’ve had it.

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The one I've put on is a (probably) britpart. I bought it when i thought i had a fan problem with the old engine. Put the 'original' back on a few weeks back, so it's the cheap alternative that I've just put back on again, it's doing something at least!

While it's been sat on the floor, the viscous I've just taken off has gone stiff to turn. You'd think once broke it would stay broke!
No it's not going back on

kermit_rr said:

While it's been sat on the floor, the viscous I've just taken off has gone stiff to turn. You'd think once broke it would stay broke!
No it's not going back on

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What i mean is, if i didn't have torque running to watch the temp, i would never have known it had gone pop

RangeRoller dt said:

Not sure about th V8 but on diesel they are silly money. Half the reason people **** up adapt to electric fans. You need it though, perhaps it will behave betterer with a new one, you have mentioned the sporadic heat anomaly since you’ve had it.

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33+vat for a britpart, 85+vat for oem.
But.. do they come from the same factory?
It's dear enough, but not all that bad compared to nobbing about fitting electric

Still have my spare from my E36. It’s opposite direction so constant lock but that’s ideal in a strop scenario, better than nothing.
Honest to god - the boys will tell you - took mine off to try and clean it up/change the oil but it’s a sealed unit. So it only really had a good clean, jiggle about, stood flat etc. Works to this day

That is a LR one though. Not a P38 one either.

RangeRoller dt said:

Still have my spare from my E36. It’s opposite direction so constant lock but that’s ideal in a strop scenario, better than nothing.
Honest to god - the boys will tell you - took mine off to try and clean it up/change the oil but it’s a sealed unit. So it only really had a good clean, jiggle about, stood flat etc. Works to this day

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I loved my e36

Bleh....crap. My p38 makes me much happier and don’t hurt me spine.

kds said:

The 1.7 and 0.6 are they volts or MM, and having read your reply to my post re diagnostics think you better bite the bullet and go Gap iid. Now wheres @backinblack @stustrong and @Saint.V8 when you need them my brain not working as it should right now.

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These were voltages I posted in January to compare with someone else's that had issues. These were taken on my block paved drive which has suffered from the weight of a D1, D2 and FFRR so has dips everywhere. Would have mentioned the Foxwell but as the NT510 is out dated I didn't want to confuse things. If @gold rover 's is sat level I would say the sensor or cable is poorly. Mine currently has a bad connection on the front left cable to sensor plug so I have made a temporary clamp to hold it together.

kds said:

The 1.7 and 0.6 are they volts or MM, and having read your reply to my post re diagnostics think you better bite the bullet and go Gap iid. Now wheres @backinblack @stustrong and @Saint.V8 when you need them my brain not working as it should right now.

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They are also volts
I take it the rear right reading lowest is in some way connected to rear right being corner that had dropped most?

gold rover said:

They are also volts
I take it the rear right reading lowest is in some way connected to rear right being corner that had dropped most?

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Not sure if voltage goes up or down when car drops, I'll see which way it goes tomorrow when I drop to access height.

Filled up with e10 nowt has exploded yet

My Honda Type R is going fine, thanks for asking.....

Dopey said:

My Honda Type R is going fine, thanks for asking.....

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Thankgod,
atleast one of us has reliable transport

Is it worth preemptively replacing seals in the eas compressor, servicing it? Or only worth doing if/when there's a problem

kermit_rr said:

Temp went up to 97c as i pulled on my driveway, could spin the fan with my finger and it kept spinning
I have a spare but not sure how good it is.
Time to order a new one i think!

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It will spin when warm and lock when hot.

Shouldn't be possible to come off because it is opposite thread to engine movement. Might be possible for rivets to fail.

kermit_rr said:

Is it worth preemptively replacing seals in the eas compressor, servicing it? Or only worth doing if/when there's a problem

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I'd wait ti there's a problem in case you introduce one.

kermit_rr said:

While it's been sat on the floor, the viscous I've just taken off has gone stiff to turn. You'd think once broke it would stay broke!
No it's not going back on

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It will be stiff when cold (roar on startup) then slacken up as it gets warm (and can be stopped) and then lock up when hot. I don't know what temperature it locks up at and I don't know how that temperature compares to the one you see in Torque - mine's an oil burner so Torque doesn't work.

Grrrrrr said:

It will be stiff when cold (roar on startup) then slacken up as it gets warm (and can be stopped) and then lock up when hot. I don't know what temperature it locks up at and I don't know how that temperature compares to the one you see in Torque - mine's an oil burner so Torque doesn't work.

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It's normally locked up when the temp hits around 96, but this time it was more free than when'unlocked', no resistance whatsoever. Toast!