Welding in drivers footwell

Hi all, I'm looking at a series three Land rover and the MOT is up in February next year, the current owner says there is a bit of the drivers footwell that needs a small repair that is within 6 inches of the brake pedal, he says it might fail the MOT because of it, does anyone know roughly how much a welding repair might cost for this area, if it would be better to replace the entire footwell, would that be expensive as well.
Cheers
Jon.

Hi,

Where are you?

Why not MOT it and see what the real truth is?

Cheers

Hi, I'm in Essex, the car is in Bristol, it has a current MOT that expires in February, I've only seen pictures, the car is pretty clean other than the footwell, I've never had to have welding done on a car before, I just didn't want to buy it and end up with thousands of pounds worth of welding.
Cheers
Jon.

The foot wells are fairly cheap to buy, the drivers side is more complicated because of the steering, pedals and master cylinders, i worked slowly and did the lower a post as well but got each side in in a weekend , I just cut
It out what was gone if the area higher up is good no need to remove , you have the option for a pop rivet repair for the short term, an early mot will show up other bits which might help you decide what you’re getting into , you can also look at last years mot online to check for advisories just need the REG NO

If a welder did it and you prepared wouldn’t expect more than £100 from mobile welder

Thanks for the reply, I'd definitely be getting a welder in to do it, and just get the whole footeelldone. I'll do the advisory thing online, never knew about that.
I'm good with the mechanical side of things, just not much cop at stitching metal together.

Plate it, using pop rivets, bit of underseal, jobs a good’un

MOT to see what they say and get a price, or mobile welder (always a good option) or pop rivet a patch if its not structural. My ex-army LEB came with rivetted in footwells that have been done years ago with solid rivets, probably by the army, never been a problem. Budget £100-200.

Pics of mine prior to welding. Cut out old steel, clean up flanges and plug-weld.

YRM solutions.

I just glue a crisp bag over mine and cover in underseal. It’s the future. Crisp bags don’t rust.

As a follow up: I regret using a Britpart, flat toe-board. Had I known about them at the time I would have gone for a ribbed one at greater cost but better appearance. Or maybe one of those gourmet crisp packets which have to be better than a common or garden cheapy... Any preferences for flavours Bobsticle?

Those crisp packets have improved over the years too. The inside of the packets are shiny silver these days and looks just like real metal. The MOT man would never know the difference. McCoys are the thickest grade material, galvanised I heard too.

No, poncy Walker Bombay mix which has a Matt black metallic finish. Saves on having to paint. Oh and for Door pillar holes yer can't beat Brillo Pads and a skim of quick set plaster fill. Watch for shrinking, endless colour choice to finish.