welding advice :(

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After many years of wishing I knew how to weld, I bought a Disco, now I have to learn and fast, so I borrowed my dad's (very)old arc welder at the weekend and fixed my wrought iron gate that hasn't closed properly in the 9 years that I've lived in this house.

A very steep hike up the learning curve later I now have a solid gate which closes every time and isn't decorated with bunches of grapes!

Think I'm hooked. Now I just need something to fall off Red so I can weld it back on!
 
Dufty said:
After many years of wishing I knew how to weld, I bought a Disco, now I have to learn and fast, so I borrowed my dad's (very)old arc welder at the weekend and fixed my wrought iron gate that hasn't closed properly in the 9 years that I've lived in this house.

A very steep hike up the learning curve later I now have a solid gate which closes every time and isn't decorated with bunches of grapes!

Think I'm hooked. Now I just need something to fall off Red so I can weld it back on!
Click to expand...

oh it will, in time!

making your own tools is also one of the most satisfying things you can do with a welder.

cheers
 
I use C02 from a fire extinguisher with a regulator attachment as I have hundreds of bottles as the father in law owns the company.
 
Regarding the actual Discovery and the welding needed that doesn't sound too bad, well it's bad but normal!

I did about all those things to a Discovery I am currently rebuilding.

A tip on the sills, don't buy the panels, buy some (I think 100x60mm) box section for the sills. £115 all up for the panels, £30 for a piece of box section and some offcuts for repair sections.

Remove the trim panel, remove the door seals, and lift the carpet back or remove and you will see the rotten stuff, just below the lip that the door seal fits over, cut right along this so you are cutting just below the floor panel.

Cut down at the door pillar, right across the underside and along the back of the sill leaving a small section remaining sticking down from the floor pan.

Once you have fully cleared out all the rusted metal, cleaned up and painted the area, offer up your piece of box section and weld it in. I capped mine before I fitted it.

I did the drivers side with the repair sections, and the passengers side with the box section method, it's a lot easier, and stronger and means you don't need to worry about jigging the door pillar lining things up the same as your not removing as much metal.

If the floor needs any repairs you can then cut them out and weld in new pieces.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/discovery-sill-replacement-103369-3.html

or here on a RR - same job.

Replacing Range Rover Sill (s) - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

I'd buy the rear body crossmember and boot floor panels - they are worth it.

If you need new rear seatbelt eyebolts and clevis pins I can get them for you at about 1/2 the price, just save the little metal bracket; although I made new ones by cutting 3mm box section to the same shape and size as the bracket, drilling it for the clevis pin and welding a 7/16both bolt to the underside.

Brand new seat belt mounts for about £15!
 
Dufty said:
After many years of wishing I knew how to weld, I bought a Disco, now I have to learn and fast, so I borrowed my dad's (very)old arc welder at the weekend and fixed my wrought iron gate that hasn't closed properly in the 9 years that I've lived in this house.

A very steep hike up the learning curve later I now have a solid gate which closes every time and isn't decorated with bunches of grapes!

Think I'm hooked. Now I just need something to fall off Red so I can weld it back on!
Click to expand...

Arc welder?? you will be lucky if you can weld a car with one of those, and make a good job!!
good luck and if you do, post some pics
 
discomania said:
Regarding the actual Discovery and the welding needed that doesn't sound too bad, well it's bad but normal!

I did about all those things to a Discovery I am currently rebuilding.

A tip on the sills, don't buy the panels, buy some (I think 100x60mm) box section for the sills. £115 all up for the panels, £30 for a piece of box section and some offcuts for repair sections.

Remove the trim panel, remove the door seals, and lift the carpet back or remove and you will see the rotten stuff, just below the lip that the door seal fits over, cut right along this so you are cutting just below the floor panel.

Cut down at the door pillar, right across the underside and along the back of the sill leaving a small section remaining sticking down from the floor pan.

Once you have fully cleared out all the rusted metal, cleaned up and painted the area, offer up your piece of box section and weld it in. I capped mine before I fitted it.

I did the drivers side with the repair sections, and the passengers side with the box section method, it's a lot easier, and stronger and means you don't need to worry about jigging the door pillar lining things up the same as your not removing as much metal.

If the floor needs any repairs you can then cut them out and weld in new pieces.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/discovery-sill-replacement-103369-3.html

or here on a RR - same job.

Replacing Range Rover Sill (s) - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

I'd buy the rear body crossmember and boot floor panels - they are worth it.

If you need new rear seatbelt eyebolts and clevis pins I can get them for you at about 1/2 the price, just save the little metal bracket; although I made new ones by cutting 3mm box section to the same shape and size as the bracket, drilling it for the clevis pin and welding a 7/16both bolt to the underside.

Brand new seat belt mounts for about £15!
Click to expand...



thanks so much im going to have a look at the sills 2moro, and buy box section, but what do i do if the parts you weld the box section to are rusty am i f**cked ??
 
DISCO MANIA thank you so much mate as everybodys going on about welding and drifting of the subject lol, im defently going with the box section idea 100%, but what do i do if the ends were im going to weld the box section to are rusty ?? am i f**cked then ?? it over welming me badly at moment, im not shy to a big project or hard work i actualy like it but looking at loads of rust is making me think its impossible lol, :)
 
Last edited:
If the ends are rusty replace that part like you would any other part.
You might have to buy or make new sill body mounts but that's no biggy compared to the work you are doing anyway.
Once you've cut the sill off, cut away any floor that is no good.
Replace that part of the floor and put your box under.
I know it looks too much sometimes, but you can do it ;)

Have a look here when you start to wonder why you started :scratching_chin:
Land Rover Discovery pictures by jamesbf2 - Photobucket
 
James.WB said:
If the ends are rusty replace that part like you would any other part.
You might have to buy or make new sill body mounts but that's no biggy compared to the work you are doing anyway.
Once you've cut the sill off, cut away any floor that is no good.
Replace that part of the floor and put your box under.
I know it looks too much sometimes, but you can do it ;)

Have a look here when you start to wonder why you started :scratching_chin:
Land Rover Discovery pictures by jamesbf2 - Photobucket
Click to expand...

Wow thats some rebuild job, you have ask if it was really worth it.
 
at least it wasnt that horrendously rotten. but yeah IMO its always worth repairing them. it takes you a while but its fun and you have a great car at the end, the sort of car you cant buy today.

a repaired/maintained land rover from the nineties will last forever, it'll never become uneconomical to repair - unlike todays land rovers that will eventually have so many ££££ repair bills it wont be worth it.

good effort, cheers :)
 
As you are welding panels in place you will inevitably find areas where the panel is supposed to meet but has rotted beyond. You get over this by spot welding the panel in place and then cutting away the rot. This way your new panel will be correctly placed and you can continue along the rotten path! When I've resored old vehicles I tend to get through heaps of cardboard (cereal packets are perfect!) because I make lots of templates. If you cut out the shape you need to form in cardboard and transfer it to sheet metal it's much easier. Use masking tape to join templates together for a '3D' mock up of what you are making, then you can take it apart to make the separate bits. Don't be tempted to leave half rotten areas in- you'll only have to do them in the future and you are already prepared to do them now! I hope I'm making it clear - it's one of those things that is easier to do than explain!!
 
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