weeering noise

when i pull away from a junction there is a weeering noise but not sure where its coming from has anyone else had this problem??

do you still get the same noise when you pull away from places other than junctions ?

yup!!! but junctions especially

it's probably the big nut behind the wheel that needs replacing - it's a common issue and normally only takes a few minutes to do

tsk! (hee hee) tsk! Sean


slapped wrist

what the main hub nut???

unless i got Sean completely wrong - i think he means the big nut behind the steering wheel!

MHM is correct, shame they dont show how it's done in the Haynes book

Maybe you have a turbot in your engine?

ere oddie post some pictures of yer engine bay please, it's always nice to see how other people do things - specifically the routing of the pipework

Ave done it Sean and they're here...(page 2 of the Neeeeow fred)
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f37/nnnnnnnnneeeeeowwwwwwwwww-56235-2.html

oh hecks zillions of pages in that thread - cheers

Tis really only the first 2 that count and are about me new engine, the rest is all the Libyans hijacking it!

rite av just read all that nonsense - seeing as it's nice out i'll go take some piccies of mine n compare

Sean, if yours is a disco conversion, i would be particularly interested in piccies of how you've got your air intake round the alternator. They have cut the corner on mine and just put in a K&N filter, but it is right in line with the fan and am worried that a little puddle will fill it up with water! Yella has kindly offered me a TDi air box which i hope to get to fit, but the alternator is in a completely different place on the disco and it would be nice to see how you've done it!

Cheers
OD

OD - cant yu just fit a disco air box - ant route it accordingly?

If you use the standard TD rad mount you can retain the standard bonnet prop, just notch out a bit as shown in pic 6

I've kept the standard TD filter in it's original location (pic 2) - this does create a slightly messy hose arrangement (pic 4) but it does avoid having to mount the cylindrical housing elsewhere - i've seen a few where it is mounted horizontally in front of the engine in the space where the fan and cowl was previously.

I always tend to remove the fan, it would hit the PS relay if not - I’m unsure if cutting it down to fit is a good idea, firstly if not done very accurately it may become unbalanced and cause additional vibrations - and you have to cut so much off it i doubt if it'd have any useful affect on the engines temp.

This is fitted with Kenlowe fan - and at some point i will get it mounted with something more durable than tie wraps.

I'm not a great fan of keeping the shroud as it makes cleaning the rad from the engine side an arse, plus the fan (in your installation) sits too far away from it to be doing much anyways.

Standard fuel filter from a 200 is used instead of the TD one, only because it's quicker to swap the filter housing that to block off the unused return lines on the TD housing.

I've had to resize these images, PM me your email address if you want the much higher resolution orginals.

Thanks for them pics Sean, looks like a good conversion!

For some reason they have put the power steering res over the other side too so that's something else to negotiate!

I have taken the fan off now (am rarely stuck in traffic jams!) and have noticed no effect whatsoever. - presumably not because it's overheating, but because the fan being on made absolutely no difference to the cooling while it was on!

Was interested to see about the bonnet latch, dunno why they did that on mine! Might see if i can pick up some gas struts to replace that, it's not a real problem but it's a bit fiddly!

My main concern with the air intake is that water will easily get into it (particularly with the fan as it was), the standard set up would be much better. I will let you know how i get on when the other bits arrive!

i always try keep everything in it's orginal location - i'd be very interested to see what the bay looks like after the use of one of those (expensive) Steve Parker hose and air box kits

here's a few more images of conversions that i've found in the past, some of which are a right mess

I like the look of that last one, i think that's something like what i'm going to aim for! The first few, with the filter on the left, are interesting - the air has travelled about 10 metres along flexible tubes before it even gets near the engine, and crossed it about 4 times!

It seems to be that bloody alternator in the wrong place - presumably the lump is the same on the disco so there must be mounting points lower down for it? If not, i wouldn't have thought it would be all that hard to make one and lower it?

Any ideas why they might have put the PS res the wrong side?