Waxoyling Front Bulkhead

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Station House

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,960
Location
Fife, Scotland
Hi - 1994 Defender 90 SWB

I want to inject some waxoyl into the front bulkhead, and would welcome some advice on the best places to gain entry for a probe attached to a compressor.

Have found some threads where LZ members removed door hinge bolts only to find the captive nut not as captive as they would have liked!

Wondered if the door light switches (which don't work in mine!) would be suitable?

Any problems to be aware of with removing the bonnet hinge bolts?

Any other good access points, or hould I think about drilling a few holes from the engine side just below the bonnet line, and then sealing with rubber grommets?

Cheers in advance - will need to make sure the waxoyl is thinned and warm before I start!
 
Last edited:
Door-hinge captive nuts are designed to be removable, they just clip into place

I Waxoiled my bulkhead when it was brand-new and freshly painted. I just taped up all the holes, turned it upside down and filled it full of Waxoil on a hot summers day, in the cool evening I turned up up the correct way again and the excess Waxoil slowly dripped out over the next few days but a lot more remained in situ. That said, not really practical unless you are taking yours off (I take it you aren't?) so you are back to using whatever holes are available.
Don't forget holes like the ones that contain the captive nuts for the steering column & heater box. Remove the windscreen frame and make sure the top-rail is in good condition, this area can be a water trap but I covered mine with a liberal layer of Waxoil before fitting the seal and it ensures no corrosion can set in.
 
Cheers Litch

At this stage just trying to do a little preventative with it in situ - but your approach sounds spot on if fitting a new bulkhead

Can you tell me a little more about the door captive nuts - presumably of they start rotating when I try to loosen I'll need to drill out?

How easy are new captive nuts to reinsert 'in situ'?

Thanks

EDIT:

They say search and you will find!

Some great pictures in this thread from Buster - Cheers B!
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/front-door-hinges-105585.html
 
Last edited:
That link covers it perfectly. With the nuts removed (I thnk they are caged nuts rather than captive) you have lots of room for cleaning out the bulkhead and getting your tubing through.
As I said, don't forget to check the top-rail and also the box-section below this, all this area is really prone to rotting out so you want to make sure there is no rot present before you start work. You also want to make sure it is completely dry as well to ensure you aren't trapping moisture inside.
 
Cheers Litch

At this stage just trying to do a little preventative with it in situ - but your approach sounds spot on if fitting a new bulkhead

Can you tell me a little more about the door captive nuts - presumably of they start rotating when I try to loosen I'll need to drill out?

How easy are new captive nuts to reinsert 'in situ'?

Thanks

EDIT:

They say search and you will find!

Some great pictures in this thread from Buster - Cheers B!
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/front-door-hinges-105585.html

Aye nae bother SH;)
If yer bulkhead has a couple o' rubber bungs just aside the wipers, ye can take them oot and try spraying from there. Or if yer lance is long enough ye can get the door pillars coated from below. Clear out any mud 'n' stuff and ye'll find a way tae get it in;)
 
As Busterbus says - but make the mix quite runny so that it goes everywhere. Make sure that you put some cardboard on the floor underneath the door pillars to catch the mix when it runs (re-use it in the chassis).
 
Will do Buster

Was thinking 75/25 Waxoyl White Spirit mix (or would 50/50 be better), with the schultz can well and truly warm (thoguht i'd stand it in hot water (cap removed :)) for 30 mins before starting

It's been about 30 years since I used Waxoyl, and then I just used what came with the kit and of course it all blocked!!!

Looking forward to using the schultz gun.

Any other tips very welcome.
 
This time of year I would use 50/50. When it's warmer I go to 1/3 / 2/3.

Either way it's a messy job and sure to go everywhere!
 
Back
Top