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Water pump leaking oil..update

Discussion in '200 TDi' started by Flossie, Nov 3, 2018.

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  1. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    Following on from my clutch saga and waiting for the bits to do that job to arrive I decided to replace my waterpump.
    Now, my 200tdi has had a few mods , one of them being studs fitted in various places replacing bolts, and vice versa.
    I found it easier using studs on the timing case in a few places for example, helps to hold gaskets in place.
    I've possibly done the same with the waterpump, can't remember tbh as it was 14yrs ago. Never had any issues until I've just run up the engine and checking for water leaks around the pump and saw oil leaking along the stud.
    What's the best course of action to cure this? It's quite a bad steady leak which is ending up on the inside of the waterpump pulley and will get flinged everywhere. IMG_20181103_151224.jpg
     
  2. lynall

    lynall Well-Known Member

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    Lot of work to fix properly, hows about remove nut and washer, clean as best as you can, squirt some silicone, (proper silicone not 1.99 a tube stuff) then use a copper washer or a dowty washer under the nut and see how you get on?
    Then when belts are enxt due you can do it properly.

    Was the studding proper 8.8 stuff or that cheap crap 4.4 gear?
     
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  3. lynall

    lynall Well-Known Member

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    Ps I reckon thats the most unusual 200 defect I have ever seen!
     
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  4. Blackburn

    Blackburn Well-Known Member

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    Sure I have heard of this before the hole goes through into an oil way in block maybe due to to long a bolt being fitted in the past.
    If cleaned out stud could be loctited in to stop oil leak, but needs to be clean.
     
  5. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    Are you saying the hole is originally blind but has been broken through by using too long a bolt or stud?
    Just got back from a long walk to a LR indy to get new gaskets and the mechanic there has never seen this before either.
    I showed him the picture.
    I unfortunately cannot get the stainless steel stud out now, spent a couple of hours at it and it won't shift, tried heat as well.
    I'm going to reassemble everything with new gaskets and a thin smear of blue holymor and cross my fingers. Possibly a fibre or copper or dowty washer under the waterpump nut too.
     
  6. lynall

    lynall Well-Known Member

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    Stainless studding most likely wont be up to the job unless its special stuff.
    I like stainless but for some jobs its not the material on cf choice.
     
  7. Disco1BFG

    Disco1BFG Well-Known Member

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    +1 - you might be able to get rid of most of the oil out the hole by using brake cleaner .... maybe .... new full can should be reasonable pressure....
     
  8. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    I've got another thread running on this, did it in desperation to get traffic hopefully.
    It's all in bits, gonna do the job probably. I used stainless steel because when I stripped the engine down years ago the front cover was completely seized to the steel bolts and broke when I eventually freed it .
    It comes off easily now. IMG_20181105_135030.jpg
     
  9. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    yep but your studding doesnt:D
     
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  10. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    You've wounded me sir:p
     
  11. Blackburn

    Blackburn Well-Known Member

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    Seems odd if oil can pass down the threads and it will not screw out.
    I have a ladder rack thread failure believed cause the same way either hydraulic pressure or over long bolt broke the piece off in pic.
     

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  12. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    oil isnt coming out from behind the stud but down the stud from between the block and housing
     
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  13. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    Hopefully it won't anymore. IMG_20181105_135030.jpg
     
  14. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    It's all back together engine wise, still got the interior to put back from the clutch change though.
    I've run her up to temperature and it looked like I'd cured it however after about an hour of idling a slight stain started to appear inline with the stud at the front timing case/ rear timing case join.
    I tweaked the nut for that stud a little more and I think it's stopped, heavy rain stopped play.
    I've got a thick ish fibre washer under that nut which I may remove and replace with a normal or copper one because I think the fibre one is compressing and reducing the clamping force?
     
  15. lynall

    lynall Well-Known Member

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    Fibre one wont be any good as you say it will compress.
     
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  16. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    Yeah....that's all I had to hand unfortunately, all the copper and dowty washers I had were too big or too small, think I'll stick a normal flat washer under it and see how it goes.
     
  17. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    The extra tweak on that nut seems to have cured it, nice and dry all around the water pump and the front and rear timing cases.
    Back on the road again:).
     
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  18. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    UPDATE...Well...I feel a little foolish:oops:.
    @jamesmartin
    @lynall
    @Blackburn
    @Disco1BFG
    Still had the oil leak but not too bad then my head gasket went 7 months on from the date of my original post.
    Whipping the head off Saturday and noticed bolt number 18 in the tightening sequence was rough coming out. Cleaned the block and head faces up then proceeded to clean and blow out the 18 bolt holes. IMG_20190615_151344.jpg number 18 bolt hole is front left in the block and is the first of 5 under the rocker cover.
    See the acorn nut holding the water pump on? , the one that was leaking oil....
    See what the stud going into the block is in line with?
    Yes, hole 18 that the bolt felt rough coming out of.
    Cleaning out this hole revealed the stud from the water pump protruding into the head bolt, on assembly after the complete engine reconning in 2014 I've fitted the head last, number 18 head bolt has hit this stud, been torqued to 40 nm then a further 2 X 60deg:eek:.
    Hence why I couldn't remove the stud that the oil was leaking from:D.
    The head bolt also couldn't seal against the head because it wasn't quite going in deep enough.
    Head bolt, being under the rocker cover and surmerged in oil of course, let oil past the head flange down the bolt and along the water pump stud to freedom:rolleyes:.
    With the head bolt out (slight damage to the end threads) the water pump stud removed easily:p.
    All back together with a standard nut and steel washer replacing the acorn nut and fibre washer and no more oil leak!:):):).
    The head gasket blowing was almost certainly because number 18 head bolt was, in effect, not clamping the head down:oops:. IMG_20190615_120151.jpg it was proper farting out of there and the hot gasses fried the cables going to my electric fan too.:oops:
     
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  19. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    good problem solving id expect the oil was from the oil gallery hole next to the bolt and not fully compressed gasket
     
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  20. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    Could have been the oil gallery hole indeed James, I did have a bit of oil around the head joint in that area too, without too much thought I just assumed it was wind blown from the water pump stud but gallery hole leakage fits better.
    I'm surprised the head gasket lasted as long as it did really.
     
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