P38A Water Pressure sensor

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@tarphenry, I agree with the wizard.
I understand your keeness to get to the bottom if it but fitting a pressure sensor is only going to show you when to shut it off as opposed to finding out when it's too late.
... It is money for nothing I think.(sorry)..
What about a replacement known engine, then you can drive it with confidence again. For a while at least;)
 
I don't understand why you don't simply keep an eye on the temperature until you track down the problem? Or do you actually have pressurisation problem that's leading to overheating?
Either way it needs fixing and adding a pressure sensor is only telling you what you already know
 
He wants to be aware of a pressure problem before it manifests as a blown hose. These cars drive you to it. I have a pressure guage on my air storage tank and it has been well worth the £5 in peace of mind.
 
He wants to be aware of a pressure problem before it manifests as a blown hose. These cars drive you to it. I have a pressure guage on my air storage tank and it has been well worth the £5 in peace of mind.

Thinking of fitting an ash tray full sensor. Don't smoke but you never know it may come in handy. FIX THE BLOODY PROBLEM.
 
Thinking of fitting an ash tray full sensor. Don't smoke but you never know it may come in handy. FIX THE BLOODY PROBLEM.

Problem fixed ages ago but still gives peace of mind. Incidentally, also helped diagnose the storage side leak on MrGorsky's car when he couldn't pin-point the leak and borrowed it for a week.
 
Ok smart arse- I had 2 Gaskets Fail in different places from the same manufacturer. Head tested no cracks shown block stested as far as is practical (dye pen ) no obvious cracks. replaced gasket from a different supplier (elring) car runs perfectly for about 2 months now with no problems ( as did the previous 2 gaskets) I have no way of knowing wether the previous problem will occur again, So come on clever clogs which problem am i sorting .
 
Ok smart arse- I had 2 Gaskets Fail in different places from the same manufacturer. Head tested no cracks shown block stested as far as is practical (dye pen ) no obvious cracks. replaced gasket from a different supplier (elring) car runs perfectly for about 2 months now with no problems ( as did the previous 2 gaskets) I have no way of knowing wether the previous problem will occur again, So come on clever clogs which problem am i sorting .
Who are you talking to?
 
You should maybe looking for a common denominator. Like your inability to fit cylinder heads properly.
Assuming the mating surfaces are clean/true and smooth does the "fitting properly" relate to sequence of bolting up and ensuring correct bolts and correct sequence and correct torque values and then a re-tighten/check after a suitable period?
Or is there further magic to be applied? I am interested to know if there are any "Wizard-Wheezes" as we used to say at school back in the day. ;)
 
Assuming the mating surfaces are clean/true and smooth does the "fitting properly" relate to sequence of bolting up and ensuring correct bolts and correct sequence and correct torque values and then a re-tighten/check after a suitable period?
Or is there further magic to be applied? I am interested to know if there are any "Wizard-Wheezes" as we used to say at school back in the day. ;)

No wizard wheezes. Just doing it properly. The bolts after initial torque are angle tightened. If two gaskets blew in two different places either the gaskets were crap or they were not fitted properly or a combination of the two.
 
No wizard wheezes. Just doing it properly. The bolts after initial torque are angle tightened. If two gaskets blew in two different places either the gaskets were crap or they were not fitted properly or a combination of the two.
Thanks, I thought the to torque + degrees/flats in stages was the answer, but you never know when there is a real bit of "gold-dust" tucked away as a "best practice".
 
Thanks, I thought the to torque + degrees/flats in stages was the answer, but you never know when there is a real bit of "gold-dust" tucked away as a "best practice".

No flats on diesel head bolts. Bolts are tightened in eight stages that must be followed.
 
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