Warning light screen

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Tirran

Well-Known Member
Posts
230
Location
South Lanarkshire
My warning light screen in the the instrument binnacle is so worn you cannot determine what the lamp refers to.

Does anyone in the UK provide a replacement screen / overlay rather than an expensive replacement of the complete assembly?
 
Thanks Mick, but it all works just the graphics are difficult/ impossible to see.

what I thought was a flickering oil pressure light was the brake fluid level!! Topped up the fluid and all good.

still hissing oil from the crank seal, going to bite the bullet on that, then I can dodo mat the rear floor .
 
3hours of reversing the build in preparation to remove the engine to replace the rear crank seal.

who needs another project when you havre this to do😄
IMG_1719.jpeg
IMG_1722.jpeg
 
A good seven hours supported by my glamorous assistant Miktdish.

Engine out, rear crank seal changed, engine refitted ancillaries fitted, just the radiator and air filter and grille tomorrow morning, then hopefully no more oil leaks.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1726.jpeg
    IMG_1726.jpeg
    479 KB · Views: 87
  • IMG_1728.jpeg
    IMG_1728.jpeg
    326.7 KB · Views: 68
  • IMG_1730.jpeg
    IMG_1730.jpeg
    408.4 KB · Views: 84
After some consideration and skinning of knuckles etc the engine went back in and after circa 10 hours we gave up for the day and Tear'y @Tirran put it all back together, radiators etc, front poanel, everything and on Monday lunch timeI went round for the grand starting.
It started first turn.

But wouldn't go into gear and when it was in gear the clutch was dragging.
"Oh bugger" said @Tirran , I wasn't really listening as I was hunched in the corner crying.
It turns out there is a right way and a wrong way to install the clutch plate ... who knew ?

Anyways ... 6 hours later we'd taken the front off, emptied the water, disconnected the exhaust, fuel, oil, electrics and air got the engine out (again) turned the clutch plate around, put the engine back in (again), connected the electrics, air, oil, water, fuel, exhaust and .... this time (again) it started 1st go and now we can get gears and have a working clutch.

Hopefully TT doesn't have a leaking rear crankcase gasket ....
If he does, i'll be hunched in the corner crying again.
 
After some consideration and skinning of knuckles etc the engine went back in and after circa 10 hours we gave up for the day and Tear'y @Tirran put it all back together, radiators etc, front poanel, everything and on Monday lunch timeI went round for the grand starting.
It started first turn.

But wouldn't go into gear and when it was in gear the clutch was dragging.
"Oh bugger" said @Tirran , I wasn't really listening as I was hunched in the corner crying.
It turns out there is a right way and a wrong way to install the clutch plate ... who knew ?

Anyways ... 6 hours later we'd taken the front off, emptied the water, disconnected the exhaust, fuel, oil, electrics and air got the engine out (again) turned the clutch plate around, put the engine back in (again), connected the electrics, air, oil, water, fuel, exhaust and .... this time (again) it started 1st go and now we can get gears and have a working clutch.

Hopefully TT doesn't have a leaking rear crankcase gasket ....
If he does, i'll be hunched in the corner crying again.
Nope, just buying oil in bulk.
 
"It turns out there is a right way and a wrong way to install the clutch plate ... who knew ?"

Fairly certain that it is normally printed or stamped on the plate "Flywheel Side" (or similar).
 
Back
Top