Freelander 1 Vibration

Hi Guys - I think I've found out what's causing the front end vibrations.....drive shaft issues. I've looked on a number of sites and note replacement parts have different lengths....albeit a few mm, Is there a way to confirm the correct length for my freelander without stripping it down first....and does it really matter?? - Cheers Paul

Vibration from the front of the FL1, especially at slower speeds under acceleration is normally the inboard tripod joints. This is a particularly problem on aftermarket shafts, which should be avoided.

The problem occurs at higher speeds typically from 50 to 70 when accelerating. Take my foot off and vibration stops or reduces significantly

Looks just as easy to change the complete drive shaft. So how to comfirm overall length without stripping it down first?

pelwood said:

The problem occurs at higher speeds typically from 50 to 70 when accelerating. Take my foot off and vibration stops or reduces significantly

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Is it vibration at engine speed or wheel speed? There are many reports of vibration between 18 hundred and 2k rpm which often dies down above these revs.
The shafts are different for manual and automatic boxes

raywin said:

Is it vibration at engine speed or wheel speed? There are many reports of vibration between 18 hundred and 2k rpm which often dies down above these revs.
The shafts are different for manual and automatic boxes

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Not sure how to answer that, other than it gets worse the harder you accelerate.......if I take my foot off, then it reduces significantly or disappears. It's a manual box by the way

pelwood said:

Not sure how to answer that, other than it gets worse the harder you accelerate.......if I take my foot off, then it reduces significantly or disappears. It's a manual box by the way

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Problem only gets worse the harder you accelerate to a point where it shakes the whole car quite aggressively

If it keeps getting worse and shakes the car probably drive shaft, if it dies back when you change up it may be engine related.

pelwood said:

Not sure how to answer that, other than it gets worse the harder you accelerate.......if I take my foot off, then it reduces significantly or disappears. It's a manual box by the way

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Does it have different tyres between front and back?

Nodge68 said:

Does it have different tyres between front and back?

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No same all round

pelwood said:

No same all round

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Same make, same type, with least worn on the rear?

Nodge68 said:

Same make, same type, with least worn on the rear?

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Had 4 new tyres fitted recently, couple of ball joints plus tracking and alignment checked

pelwood said:

Had 4 new tyres fitted recently, couple of ball joints plus tracking and alignment checked

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Ok, that good, as vibration at higher speeds can be due to odd tyres putting strain on the drive line.
Having 4 identical tyres reduces this strain, and the vibration along with it.

Have you looked at the VCU damper? Check the outer mass ring hasn't begun to separate from the hub.

Nodge68 said:

Ok, that good, as vibration at higher speeds can be due to odd tyres putting strain on the drive line.
Having 4 identical tyres reduces this strain, and the vibration along with it.

Have you looked at the VCU damper? Check the outer mass ring hasn't begun to separate from the hub.

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I've already removed the prop shaft as this would just amplifying the vibration throughout the car.....on inspection tho, looks to be in good condition

pelwood said:

I've already removed the prop shaft as this would just amplifying the vibration throughout the car.....on inspection tho, looks to be in good condition

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Ok. So no propshafts and a vibration at 50-70. Next would be checking the tyres are perfectly balanced. It's also a good idea to check the engine lower tie bar, as the large bush is known to go soft, causing the entire engine to wobble.