Vibration at approx 1750 rpm?

tinytdi said:

I recon they have got the details wrong to be honest - its listed under L series but refers to the K series?!? Also - can you imagine pulling those revvs and NOT getting vibration?

I chuckled on my work today as i was driving without the stereo on with my ear tilted and an atrentive frown on my face every time I accelerated thinking "I bet Taipan is doing the same".
I recon the resonator under the n/s/f wing is worth another look. I may just remove it and go for a test drive. Anyone know what it actually does????

Silly random question Taipan - do you get any clutch judder?

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You'd be right too! Now I cant get in the car without telling everyone to be quiet as I push my face against the windscreen trying to listen and pinpoint the noise!

I've decided when it vibrates I can hear the resonator thing vibrating etc. So I'm going to follow the advice given here and see if that stops it.

Yes i do ocassionally get slight clutch judder? I'm really wondering about that IRD mounting bracket now. I'm almost looking forward to the weekend and getting back under the car! Its such a familiar act that my weekends just wouldn't be the same if I didn't have to!

Can anyone confirm/deny that the IRD bracket issue affects only the 1.8 petrol and not the L series diesel?

Taipan said:

Can anyone confirm/deny that the IRD bracket issue affects only the 1.8 petrol and not the L series diesel?

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Apparently not. In another forum a millyon miles away from here they answered this very question thus;

I think it only applies to the petrol model. If you compare the two pics attached, the petrol and diesel moutnings aren't the same

Ah so that rules out the mounting bracket then.
Juddery clutch hey? Snap. Worse when starting from cold per chance?
Would you say there is a bit of a power drop with the vibration also?
Daft as this may sound -tiny has gone quiet again. The vibration has been on and off for about 10 months now but comes and goes. It has been back for about a month and now its nearly completely gone again. Bit mad eh?
I have tried messing about with the resonator pipe a few times but no difference. Do you know what purpose it actually serves? Is it really needed?

tinytdi said:

Ah so that rules out the mounting bracket then.
Juddery clutch hey? Snap. Worse when starting from cold per chance?
Would you say there is a bit of a power drop with the vibration also?
Daft as this may sound -tiny has gone quiet again. The vibration has been on and off for about 10 months now but comes and goes. It has been back for about a month and now its nearly completely gone again. Bit mad eh?
I have tried messing about with the resonator pipe a few times but no difference. Do you know what purpose it actually serves? Is it really needed?

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The juddery clutch is just on the initial couple of pull aways and isn't bad, just noticeable. I cant say I've noticed a drop in power, but i'm pretty gentle with cold engines.

My vibration is there every time and all the time. I think its mechanical and not harmonic. I was excited when I thought that bracket was a possibility as that is exactly what my vibration feels like. I knew instantly I saw my engine mounts that they weren't the problem. I didn't need to test drive it to confim it. I'll be out there again this weekend, engine running, pry bar in hand, levering it about to see if I can find anything. But i suspect mine is going to end up being drive shaft or worse?

My resonator box does vibrate but its the vibration making it do so, if you see what I mean? No idea what it does or why its there, but if I can get at it better I'll pack it out with rubber car mat or some sort of foam.

Seriously mate - yours sounds exactly like mine but ashamed as I am to admit it - My vibration has been gone 3 days now. Just gone?!?
This does happen from time to time and it will be back. Tried inducing it last night but smooth as silk all the way home. Mad eh?
Know what u mean about the resonator - though the same thing myself re: vibration causing it to vibrate etc.
Well if its any good - remove the main prop shaft and the vibration gets worse - tried that one! Keep me posted

tinytdi said:

Seriously mate - yours sounds exactly like mine but ashamed as I am to admit it - My vibration has been gone 3 days now. Just gone?!?
This does happen from time to time and it will be back. Tried inducing it last night but smooth as silk all the way home. Mad eh?
Know what u mean about the resonator - though the same thing myself re: vibration causing it to vibrate etc.
Well if its any good - remove the main prop shaft and the vibration gets worse - tried that one! Keep me posted

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That's interesting. \i'm refitting the prop assembly tomorrow, I wonder what, if any, diference it will make? It must stop some fore aft movement of the engine I suppose? Hmmm...

Ah, so your prop is off? Yeah it does make a massive difference but does not cure it. Just been to the dealer to pick up my thermatwat gasket - he described the exact vibration and put it down to the hydrolic pipe leading from the clutch master to the slave...apparently prone to resonating...worth a look me thinks....

tinytdi said:

Ah, so your prop is off? Yeah it does make a massive difference but does not cure it. Just been to the dealer to pick up my thermatwat gasket - he described the exact vibration and put it down to the hydrolic pipe leading from the clutch master to the slave...apparently prone to resonating...worth a look me thinks....

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I'm just going outside to fit the prop noww. So Ill have a check of that whilst i'm under there.

Found the pipe knocking about near the engine mount out of its clip...vibration has been gone a few days now so no difference anyhoo. How did you get on?

tinytdi said:

Found the pipe knocking about near the engine mount out of its clip...vibration has been gone a few days now so no difference anyhoo. How did you get on?

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Well i put the prop back on and the real shuddeing vibration has gone. But it eesm to have moved down to even lower revs. Sorrt of each gear change you feel it. Anyway, I've just been out in it and its seems to be making a different type of vibration. I'm not sure I have the vcu mounts squarely mounted? I'd better get back under and check that tomorrow! ut I think that refitting the prop has helped really, as you said it would.

Spent the whole day working on it. Changing a track rod end proved to be a nightmare! I bled the front brakes as a double pump of the pedal makes it firmer, sadly it didnt help. My eezi bleed doesn't fit the reservoir so I had to do it manually and the Mrs was too busy to saty out and help me. So I said to her not to worry love, its only the brakes

Obvious one on the rear brakes - pull the handbrake a click or two and seeif that improves matters. If so your rear ajusters aint working and need the attention of a wire brush!

Taipan - just had a thought - would you say the noise is comming from the fuel pump belt area? Changed it recently / at all?

tinytdi said:

Obvious one on the rear brakes - pull the handbrake a click or two and seeif that improves matters. If so your rear ajusters aint working and need the attention of a wire brush!

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Funnily enough that is next weekends job, to check the shoes etc. You're right, I should have pulled the handbrake up a notch to check if it was that. The old memory is errr just that!

tinytdi said:

Taipan - just had a thought - would you say the noise is comming from the fuel pump belt area? Changed it recently / at all?

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No. I do have a bearing whirring noise coming from the o/s/f. Sound slike my Renault Scenic did when it had an idler pulley that needed replacing? I'll have to take the alternator belt off and see if it is that, or God forbid a cambelt idler!

Right fella - I think I may have sorted the buzzing humming noise that comes in the low revs and goes as you rev through it.
For this job you will need.

1 - An old mouse mat
2 - scissors
3 - tent peg

Step 1 - peel off the cloth mouse mat cover and discard.
Step 2 - With the scissors, cut the mat into strips approx 2cm wide.
Step 3 - Cut the strips into 5cm lengths.
Step 4 - With the tent peg; stuff the rubber strips into every gap in the bumper, grille and wheel arch liners.
Step 5 - By banging your fist on the wings and bumper track down loose or ill fitting joins and stuff rubber mouse mat into them.
Step 6 - Bang and the noise is gone...Hi, I'm Barry Scott....

tinytdi said:

Right fella - I think I may have sorted the buzzing humming noise that comes in the low revs and goes as you rev through it.
For this job you will need.

1 - An old mouse mat
2 - scissors
3 - tent peg

Step 1 - peel off the cloth mouse mat cover and discard.
Step 2 - With the scissors, cut the mat into strips approx 2cm wide.
Step 3 - Cut the strips into 5cm lengths.
Step 4 - With the tent peg; stuff the rubber strips into every gap in the bumper, grille and wheel arch liners.
Step 5 - By banging your fist on the wings and bumper track down loose or ill fitting joins and stuff rubber mouse mat into them.
Step 6 - Bang and the noise is gone...Hi, I'm Barry Scott....

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Ever thought that these rubber mouse mat parts will keep the humidity in these places and that they also will block the passage of wind while driving resulting in a big chance of creating rust ??? (As there was a vibration heard it means two items have touched each other and have removed some of the protecting paint I'm afraid ?)

I am not talking about folding the mouse mat in half and jamming it under the bonnet slam panel. The wings, grille, arch liners and wheel arches are all placcy (and not very well fitting on the early models) so taking up the rattly slack merely stops them resonating and no fear of rust unless you know something about plastic that I don't. We are only talking 5cm strips here and there twix the plastic so the panels are not prised apart by the rubber, merely cushioned where they flex and resonate. Seems to work for me anyhoo.

tinytdi said:

I am not talking about folding the mouse mat in half and jamming it under the bonnet slam panel. The wings, grille, arch liners and wheel arches are all placcy (and not very well fitting on the early models) so taking up the rattly slack merely stops them resonating and no fear of rust unless you know something about plastic that I don't. We are only talking 5cm strips here and there twix the plastic so the panels are not prised apart by the rubber, merely cushioned where they flex and resonate. Seems to work for me anyhoo.

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Sorry but I thought you were stuffing the entire front of the car??
Guess we on the continent have the same plastic parts on our Hippos as you in the UK have, also rustfree ...

Well I replaced the mounts and refitted the prop. This seemed to get rid of the main vibration at 1750 rpms (peak) but possibly moved it to just off idle? The car is certainly much smoother for refitting the prop. But I prefer way it drives without the prop.

Anyway, I think at 114k the vibration is just down to general wear and tear of anything that mounts to the chassis. It seems this vibration only affects higher mileage models anyway? Restricting the fore/aft movement by refitting the prop and replacing the aforementioned engine mounts has reduced the vibes to an acceptable level. There are another couple of mounts I could have replaced and I think that may have cleared it completely.

The main mount by the gearbox that I replaced was pretty much new though, you could even see the label on there. I couldn't really say the other mount was any different to the new one I replaced it with. They were certainly not what I would have identified as worn on any other car. A mechanic friend reckons a combination of even minimal wear on mounts with cars like this can be enough to allow a transmission of vibration. So I guess I believe him? I'd still have preferred to have really nailed this problem down though. Anyway, the car is sold now and this is where it ends for me.

hello
My freelander is a 1.8, and that also has vibration transmitted through to the car from the engine, it also does it when stationary at about 1750 rpm. I have had it on a ramp and can only see that the heat shield has broke loose from the exhaust pipe between the sump and sump guard. This may be the problem, but I am also considering changing the bottom engine tie rod mounting, anyone have any other ideas?

Taipan said:

Well I replaced the mounts and refitted the prop. This seemed to get rid of the main vibration at 1750 rpms (peak) but possibly moved it to just off idle? The car is certainly much smoother for refitting the prop. But I prefer way it drives without the prop.

Anyway, I think at 114k the vibration is just down to general wear and tear of anything that mounts to the chassis. It seems this vibration only affects higher mileage models anyway? Restricting the fore/aft movement by refitting the prop and replacing the aforementioned engine mounts has reduced the vibes to an acceptable level. There are another couple of mounts I could have replaced and I think that may have cleared it completely.

The main mount by the gearbox that I replaced was pretty much new though, you could even see the label on there. I couldn't really say the other mount was any different to the new one I replaced it with. They were certainly not what I would have identified as worn on any other car. A mechanic friend reckons a combination of even minimal wear on mounts with cars like this can be enough to allow a transmission of vibration. So I guess I believe him? I'd still have preferred to have really nailed this problem down though. Anyway, the car is sold now and this is where it ends for me.

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Good to hear that some of the problems were sorted Taipan

waza said:

hello
My freelander is a 1.8, and that also has vibration transmitted through to the car from the engine, it also does it when stationary at about 1750 rpm. I have had it on a ramp and can only see that the heat shield has broke loose from the exhaust pipe between the sump and sump guard. This may be the problem, but I am also considering changing the bottom engine tie rod mounting, anyone have any other ideas?

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You just have to check around, open bonnet and rev engine from throttle body to view any obvious offending item.

New tie bar is about £30 quid but I have fabricated a composite bush for the larger rubber bush. It cost a few £ to make, well sheeting of material was expensive but I can supply some if needed. You can even use the original bolt housing from the bush.

Gearbox mounting was also modded, gives complete stability to the engine. You get a slight whine from the gearbox due to stiffer materials used but its just like driving the old school mini with their distinctive whine