Very Strabge Central Locking / Immobiliser Issue

Whilst away on business this week, the wife called to say that she thought the Freelander had a flat battery. As she described it, "the key fob does nothing and if you open it with the key, it's dead - the starter doesn't turn".

On returning home today, I find that the battery is in a good state of health, however, the problem seems to be more associated with the immobiliser / central locking.

Basically, when the key fob is pressed, it does nothing. The car will unlock with the key (driver's door only) but the starter circuit is completely dead.

If the car is opened with the key, the alarm will not sound when the driver's door is opened, however, it will sound if the bonnet is opened.

When the key is inserted into the ignition switch and turned to position II, all lights on the dashboard illuminate.

The key fob had new batteries when I got the vehicle (about 6 months ago) and I have tried re-programming it to the car (pressed repeatedly - but nothing happens).

With the current state of play, I have a totally imobile car, with all doors, except the driver's door, locked. To make matters better - my OBDII scanner is in the boot - :doh:

The vehicle is a 2001 1.8 Petrol.

Any wisdom will, as always, be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Ian.

Bizarrely, almost the same thing happened when i tried to drive away from the MOT centre a week or two ago. Tested the zapper and it was giving RF but the same problem was present, that it wouldn't start. As you say, immobilised.
In the first instance, I believe there is a code which you can input by turning the key although i've never seen or done this myself.
Secondly, I fixed mine by taking the keyfob battery out and reseating it and then it worked fine. Certainly worth a try!

Thanks for that.

Just tried new batteries in the key fob - no good.

Phoned the dealer and got the EKA - but that doesn't work.

Where's the matches!

check your batteries are in correctly in the remote. Check that the central locking fuse is ok. Try resynchronising the remotes by pressing either button on the remote 5 times in quick succession whilst close to the car.
Ultimately prize the pcb out of the remote housing with care and closely look at the button mounts, they commonly break off the board and can be carefully soldered back on.
Not sure if landrovers use the emergency key access code but if you have the code in the documents with the vehicle then I can tell you how to enter it ( please don't post the number on here tho )

Thanks Steve - good suggestions.

I am told that the Freelander does use an EKA - the helpful dealer actually provided it in exchange for a copy of my V5 and driving licence.

I will definitely have a look at the fobs - but would also appreciate any tips on entering it.

Thanks again.

Ian.

Hi Ian
I'm assuming that your eka is 4 digits eg 2345
STEP 1 - With the key in the drivers door lock, turn the key 90 degrees to the lock position and back to the 12 o'clock position (2) times.
STEP 2 - Then turn key 90 degrees to unlock position and back to 12 o'clock (3) times.
STEP 3 - repeat STEP 1 but turning key (4) times
STEP 4 - repeat STEP 2 but turning key (5) times

You see how the pattern goes per your eka.
Try to start with the door unlocked 1st but always ensure that your last eka entry finishes on an unlock stroke for obvious reasons.
This in effect turns off your immobiliser until the remote is used to lock the car again ok.
Let me know if you succeed

Best of luck

Steve

Thanks for that Steve.

Tried it several times, but it's just not having it! I'm guessing this is probably a CCU fault - but hoping it isn't!

Cheers again,

Ian.

Could be the remote, RF receiver or CCU/Imobiliser fault if not opening with the remote. If the EKA code doesnt work, could be down to CCU etc, or a dodgy door latch.
An indy with T4/Testbook will be able to identify which of the above is at fault

Cheers Disco Mikey,

Yep - I'm thinking that's it - unless I can pick up a second hand CCU with remotes from a breakers!

Cheers again,

Ian.

I have one

Having a very similar issue. It's done it a few times before but always worked.

Now I'm thinking I need to replace some bits!

I'm guessing CCU (this the box located above the speedo etc with three wires coming out?) and key fobs..... Any advance on that?

Also if this stuff is replaced then is it just a case of swap the bits over and fire it up or is it a LR Dealer job???

The CCU is fitted to the back of the fusebox, and is the Freelander equivalent of a BeCM on a Range Rover. Controls the taildoor, windows, locking etc

The box above the speedo is the RF receiver, and picks up a signal when you press the lock/unlock button

If you bought a 2nd hand CCU, it would need programmed to your car. A local independent should have T4/Testbook to do it, but it may also be possible with other diagnostic systems...

Hi Mike,

Just wondering if it's possible to replace the CCU and engine management ECU as a matched pair?

The RAVE manual seems to suggest that the exchange of information happens between the CCU and ECU - so I'm guessing that taking a matched pair from another vehicle would work?

Assuming that's the case, do you also have a matched ECU for the CCU?

Cheers,

Ian.

Hi Vulcan,
That worked for me on my Rover400, swapped ECU, CCU and new plips onto car for testing and then back afterwards (much later after finding faults - not due to CCU unfortunately).
ECU - CCU are paired. Plips can be reprogrammed to CCU.
Hope this helps.
TD John

Hi TD John,

Thanks very much for this.

Think I've located a breaker locally - the guy's just looking to see if it's all still there.

Fingers crossed.

Give me traditional locks and no fancy imobilisers any day of the week over this convoluted system.

Cheers again.

Ian.

Still have all the ECU's from the car, Engine Management, CCU, Alarm module etc...

Let me know if you want them, will do you a good deal