Very hard to change/get into gear

Hey guys how's it going? Got a bit of an odd one. The discovery 2 is becoming a bit of a pain with regards to the gears.
Basically it hates going into first most times. REALLY hates going into 2nd and then crunches into 3rd. Second gear doesn't crunch but I really have to pull on the gear stick to get it in. As if there is a gate on the gear I'm forcing it through. Then up into 3rd it will crunch (clutch to the floor) unless I'm changing gear very early then it's pretty sweet to be honest. But it means I pull away like a slug. Any ideas? Might be worth mentioning I get the odd over-Rev between gear changes (as if I'm still on the throttle when I press on the clutch). It's a td5
Thanks

asnelling said:

Hey guys how's it going? Got a bit of an odd one. The discovery 2 is becoming a bit of a pain with regards to the gears.
Basically it hates going into first most times. REALLY hates going into 2nd and then crunches into 3rd. Second gear doesn't crunch but I really have to pull on the gear stick to get it in. As if there is a gate on the gear I'm forcing it through. Then up into 3rd it will crunch (clutch to the floor) unless I'm changing gear very early then it's pretty sweet to be honest. But it means I pull away like a slug. Any ideas? Might be worth mentioning I get the odd over-Rev between gear changes (as if I'm still on the throttle when I press on the clutch). It's a td5
Thanks

Click to expand...

It could be:

1. Air in the hydraulic circuit of the clutch, so when you press the clutch pedal the clutch release bearing is not pressing onto the cover plate enough;

2. Clutch release bearing is collapsing;

3. Oil in gearbox needs topping up/changing - re-fill with MTF94;

4. Bias plate at the base of the lever needs adjusting or the plastic cage needs replacing.


Dave

thebiglad said:

It could be:



1. Air in the hydraulic circuit of the clutch, so when you press the clutch pedal the clutch release bearing is not pressing onto the cover plate enough;



2. Clutch release bearing is collapsing;



3. Oil in gearbox needs topping up/changing - re-fill with MTF94;



4. Bias plate at the base of the lever needs adjusting or the plastic cage needs replacing.





Dave

Click to expand...

Thanks Dave

I did change the gearbox oil when it started but saw no difference. I'll bleed the clutch next then.
I'm afraid I don't understand number 4

Thanks

asnelling said:

Thanks Dave

I did change the gearbox oil when it started but saw no difference. I'll bleed the clutch next then.
I'm afraid I don't understand number 4

Thanks

Click to expand...

Re no. 4 :

There is a plate with 2 springs at the base of the gear lever and this is what gives the spring-loaded feel and neutral at the 3/4 gear positions. This plate is adjustable side to side, to optimise gear selection. Beneath this plate is the "Bush-change pivot manual transmission" (or plastic cage) as seen in the diagram included.

thebiglad said:

Re no. 4 :

There is a plate with 2 springs at the base of the gear lever and this is what gives the spring-loaded feel and neutral at the 3/4 gear positions. This plate is adjustable side to side, to optimise gear selection. Beneath this plate is the "Bush-change pivot manual transmission" (or plastic cage) as seen in the diagram included.

Click to expand...

Ok mate. So how would I adjust this for better and not make it worse? If that makes sense

asnelling said:

Ok mate. So how would I adjust this for better and not make it worse? If that makes sense

Click to expand...

Well the first thing I would do is to order up the plastic cage and the bias plate so you've got them in stock, before you open up the gubbins.

To access these elements you will need to remove the centre console and the riveted plate which will allow access to the top of the gearbox and the parts in question.

The adjustment when you get to it is just a matter of sliding it left and right until you get to be able to select all gears finger-light. Rave (the LR workshop manual) states to move the plate as far to the right as possible, then tighten the locating screws.

The more I think about it the less convinced I am about it being the bias plate adjustment and more likely to be the cage that's worn out.

Dave

Thanks a lot Dave. Great detail. Appreciated. I'll private message from now and I'll
Post the results for others in future. Top man

The revs " flaring " on gear change will be you clutch switch. It is in the line between the master and slave cyclinders in the pre-facelift and mounted directly to master cylinder on the facelift. If you have cruise, set it and see if it cancels when you put the clutch down.

50 pence said:

The revs " flaring " on gear change will be you clutch switch. It is in the line between the master and slave cyclinders in the pre-facelift and mounted directly to master cylinder on the facelift. If you have cruise, set it and see if it cancels when you put the clutch down.

Click to expand...

Hi.
It does cancel the cruise control if I press the clutch. But I will replace it as well. Thanks