Ventilation - Aircon noise ?

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FrenchyRover

New Member
Posts
15
Hello everyone,

I'm willing to have opinions on different issues I have on my new freelander TD4 GS auto 03.

I read carefully the thread on lack of power and will do the MAF test as I have the same issue. The car won't pass 3000 rpm even in neutral. No issues during the acceleration, it just takes ages to go up in the revs and will stop between 2500 and 3000 rpm. Work in progress, I will unplug the MAF and will take it from there.

what puzzles me is the rubbing/buzzing noise when I turn the windscreen ventilation on. It does it sometimes on idle but it will always do it if I do a full lock turn on the left. Sounds like the right tyre is rubbing on something but the noise disappears as soon as I turn the ventilation off. I know the aircon is triggered when you turn the windscreen demist ventilation. Why would that make any change when I turn left ??? :confused: any possibility of shunting the aircon ?

Also the driver's side windcreen ventilation blower isn't giving any air... doing my head in and I have to use a tissue to get the condensation. Passenger side is fine. how do I check for clogs ?

thanks for reading. Looking forward reading your opinions
 
Is the rubbing coming from inside or outside the car? Is the LHS wheel catching on the heater eggsourse (if yer has a fool burning heater) or something else. Get someone to switch controls whilst you hear under the bonnet for noises.

Vent stuff is behind the 3 control nobs you turn to direct air flow etc. I guess they can snap. Pull the 3 round handles oft to dispay a few screws. Undo these and see if you can see anything behind the white plastic bit the 3 nob selector nob things go through. A mirror will help. If not then you'll need to unscrew and lift out the middle bit of the handbrake cubby box, undo screws inside holding the cubby surround to the floor, slide it back, undo screws on transmission tunnel and slide back, to get the front outer plastic surround oft the central heater/radio section, if it's like mine.

If that makes sense... it's late.
 
The rubbing noise is coming from under the bonnet. I noticed that the aircon belt isn't working at all .... even with aircon on. still don't understand why it does it when I turn left though .... would that put tension on that belt ?

Is there not an easier way to access the driver's side winscreen blower ?
 
Nope. Blower controls are a pig to get too. Just think yerself lucky you int trying to get the heater matrix out.

Get someome to control the steering with the engine running and carefully look above, below and around the engine to find the noise/fault. Could be the old belt catching on the wheel or worse still something spinning on the engine. Be careful.
 
Thanks Hippo. I went into the bother of replacing the battery this morning. The old one was dying. Never seen such a bad design :mad: the bolt of the plastic clip holder wasn't going out. Ended up taking the whole battery carrier out !!! Anyway this is sorted.

I will carry on working on it tomorrow and try to get a better idea.
 
Should it not turn regardless? Siezed aircon pump?

No, the pully only engages when the aircon is turned on (either manually or when the correct combination of controls causes it to happen).
The aircon on my wife's TD4 didn't work properly so after I had fitted a new belt (the old one was worn anyway) I checked the electrical connector and having done that it started engaging ok. Trouble was that by then it had been inoperative for some time and now requires re-gassing.
 
Thanks guys. I still haven't found the solution for this one but I had to put it on the back boiler due to power issues. I read the different threads on the forum and I'm up for the solenoid replacement tomorrow
 
might be low pressure fuel pump, mine did that when the fuel pump was failing.

as for the rubbing sound, could be the pulley rubbing on the side cover in the wheel arch, only makes a rubbing sound when air con is on. worth a look at drivers wheel arch inner.

good luck though.
 
the car was only reving to 3000 rpm even in neutral ( auto box ). Unplugged the MAF and could rev up to 4000 and even a bit over - car felt better but when I took it on a test drive it had the same problem of suddendly hitting a wall and blocking itslef at around 2500-2750 rpm foot down and not willing to get any further....
I checked the hoses and they look ok. I will replace them surely as a matter of maintenance but didn't consider it was the priority job.

Sometimes I take the car a few hours after i have the problem and it drives fine ...

got the diesel filter changed yesterday and it was actually driving awful just after but when I took it this morning it was driving fine....

I can feel it straight away when I start driving the car if it's gonna be good or not. when it's bad it feels like the hand brake is on .... I put my foot down and the car will refuse to get over 2750 in 3rd ....

Hope the solenoid will cure it.
 
Hopefully will receive the solenoid tomorrow from trillick. So much for the next day delivery, I ordered it on sunday.....
 
Ha ha order processed Monday, ordered from manufacturer Tuesday, received Wednesday, packaged Thursday, Posted Friday, Delivered Next Day ;)

I now have an ETA for Wednesday :mad: an post told me it would take 6 days average.....

My question being " how come in 2012 the postal service takes 6 days to deliver 350 km away ? "

the answer i was given : " It's christmas "

It's one of these things you have to accept in Ireland ....

You can park in the middle of the road for mass and GAA being another of these ....
 
All right. I replaced the turbo boost solenoid and took it for a test drive. problem remains the same :(

I then noticed something strange. I found this hose going from the pump on the right side of the engine to the MAF. It is ruptured. Might be the cause of the problem.

\does anyone know this hose ? it has a third end with a white plastic filter. It looks like an Atmospheric pressure intake.

If you know the part number it's even better :D

Would that ruptured hose cause the lack of power of the car ?

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actually after doing some research on the net this pipe seems to be a vacuum pipe and the other line next to it is the air vent to solenoid. ( white plastic filter ).
 
his pipe seems to be a vacuum pipe and the other line next to it is the air vent to solenoid

you on about the metal pipe ? .. next to the rubber vaccum hose with filter on it ..
i.e. the metal pipe with a 'u' shaped end ?
if so .. that's the breather vent for the ird box ..

I then noticed something strange. I found this hose going from the pump on the right side of the engine to the MAF. It is ruptured. Might be the cause of the problem.
there's a vaccum hose that positioned like that .. it should connect to the turbo solenoid at one end ..
and the vacuum feed at the other .. it operates the turbo vanes via the solenoid ..

1st post here :
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-lack-power-70mph-fixed-77147.html
has a pic withe the turbo solenoid vacuum hose connections ..
one to the venting filter
one to the turbo vane actuator diaphram
one to the vacuum pump system on other side of engine ..
( right side when yer standing in front )

i.e. hose in your pic looks like a vacuum hose ..
and not a wiring conduit as generaly used ..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I then noticed something strange. I found this hose going from the pump on the right side of the engine to the MAF. It is ruptured. Might be the cause of the problem. Does anyone know this hose ? it has a third end with a white plastic filter. It looks like an Atmospheric pressure intake. .. If you know the part number it's even better

if it's vacumm Hose your after .. most car part stores will carry it .. ( standard size i think )
just cut to length required ..
silicone vacuum hose is also available ..
 
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