vcu condition with pics

is there anyway to tell if ird is shot or diff mounts etc ? or is it just a case of process of elimination?

as i have said intend on doing quite a few miles towing a caravan and do not want any hassle with a problematic car

hocky said:

is there anyway to tell if ird is shot or diff mounts etc ? or is it just a case of process of elimination?

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IRD - check for play at the pinion where the prop attaches. Drain the oil and inspect for grey sludginess or metal bits. Remove the pinion and plate while oil drained and inspect the gears within.

Diff mounts - wiggle up and down and left and right. You should see if any of the rubber webs are broken.

guineafowl21 said:

IRD - check for play at the pinion where the prop attaches. Drain the oil and inspect for grey sludginess or metal bits. Remove the pinion and plate while oil drained and inspect the gears within.

Diff mounts - wiggle up and down and left and right. You should see if any of the rubber webs are broken.

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ok will do, i think i may have taken on something more than i planned on.

hocky said:

ok will do, i think i may have taken on something more than i planned on.

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No - we don't mean to scare you but make you aware of possible problems. Your VCU isn't that tight so it's unlikely you'll need anything more than a recon one and bearings. And a couple of tyres.

Freelanders, if looked after, are very reliable and capable vehicles. Sadly, they are often not looked after.

Maxxis 751 are a good all round tyre with a long life. (I run Maxxis 771 myself)
Get two new 751's for the rear. Move the current 751's to the front. Get your VCU off the shafts and get a complete assembly from Bell Engineering. Your total outlay will be under £400. Not much for piece of mind.
Then see if the noise at the rear has gone. I'm betting that new VCU bearings on your reconditioned VCU will solve your noise.

Oh and change the oil in the IRD and rear diff.

Ok thankyou all the help is really much appreciated.
Will get these done in the next few days and update this thread

If your other tyres are less than half worn. Keep then to sell on locally. This will offset some of the cost of buying a matching 751 spear.

Might hold on to one as the spare is done for

You can get the Maxxis 751 here.https://www.4x4tyres.co.uk/195-80-15-maxxis-ma-751-bravo-103-101q_tl12494000

hocky said:

Might hold on to one as the spare is done for

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The spare needs to match the 4 road tyres. You can have whatever tyre you like hung on the back. It only matters when you need to use it!!

Ok thanks again for the info

If you want reliable 4WD motoring, my suggestions would be...

1) Remove props now. 6 bolts at the front, 4 at the back and 4 supporting the VCU, just be careful because its not light. This will stop wind up due to differing tyres. It may tell you if the noises you hear are the VCU support bearings - if the noise persists, then its not - if the noise stops, it might be or it might just be reduced stress on the diff!
2) The VCU is in surprisingly good condition, however, its on the upper limit of acceptable, so knowing what the outcome of it getting any stiffer are, I'd get a VCU and bearings ordered. Going by feedback on here, Bell Engineering are a good supplier.
3) In readiness for the new VCU and putting it all back together, organise yourself a matching set of tyres. If your Maxis have good tread dept and you are happy with them, get another couple (or 3) - but make sure they are an EXACT match to the ones you have. If your Maxis are low, then a set of tyres that suits your needs.

Once you have the tyres sorted and new VCU with props back on, you'll be able to tell if the noise was the support bearings.

Not sure what others think, but while you're under the car, might be worth changing the oil in the IRD and possibly rear diff. If you do change the IRD oil, make sure you loosen the fill plug before the drain plug.

I joke on other threads about leaving strange noises cos they'll sort themselves - but tyres and the VCU are things that can definitely not be ignored on Freelander. You have to take care with them, but you'll be rewarded with a great car. The bolts on the props are Torq heads, I've done mine with regular sockets, but it is easier and less likelyhood of damaging them if you use Torq sockets. I've got a set now.

Ok thanks that's great advice