Van top fastenings

Hi all, just in from changing the tub cappings on my 95 300tdi.

All has gone relatively well, a few bits needed modifying but getting there. The only thing I am stuck on really is the corner bolts that fit through the tubes and bolt the van sides down, the new cappings have longer tubes and I need to extend the bolts underneath about 3" I was going to use threaded bar and joiner nuts, but one of the top nuts is threaded. If they are readily available I may as we'll get the correct new fittings. Any ideas what to search for though???

BTW I didn't want to cut the tubes down as the new cappings are galvanised and it would allow rust.

Ta

you've got the cappings off a pickup. longer hole is for the hoop. Good news is that you can get the longer fixings. have a google for em.

google 338741

Cheers guys.

Update. I used threaded rod connector bolts to extend the existing fittings, I was going to use threaded rod for the extension pieces, but the thread was loose in the nuts, so I chopped the heads off some decent 8.8 bolts which were much better. I put a lock nut on either end of the connector nut, and used the original nuts and washers at the bottom. It's now all back together and the cappings are rattle can matte black to match the rest of the Landy.

kes86 said:

Update. I used threaded rod connector bolts to extend the existing fittings, I was going to use threaded rod for the extension pieces, but the thread was loose in the nuts, so I chopped the heads off some decent 8.8 bolts which were much better. I put a lock nut on either end of the connector nut, and used the original nuts and washers at the bottom. It's now all back together and the cappings are rattle can matte black to match the rest of the Landy.

Click to expand...

pics mate
will have to do mine at some point

I didnt take any pics I even thought halfway through I should take pics of this!!

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It looked a bit like this image I just found on google.

The job went ok, and they were not stuck down only riveted.

Only problem now is there is a slight chink of light shining through the join between the side panels and the tub cappings, I have put all the fittings back in the correct order, but possibly I should have used new seals, should the spacer washer be between the tub and the side panels.

Also the rear door fits better but doesn't shut as well as it used to.

Can't edit photo on. iPad, so here is what I meant.

Did you lift the roof a tad or did you remove it completely? Was that bit easy? My tub cappings will need attention in the future, but I'm a bit overwhelmed about how much work is involved.

First I unbolted the roof to side panel bolts on both sides and propped the roof up with a length of wood. It gives plenty of room as the roof pivots from the windscreen frame. Then I unbolted the front and rear studs and the angle bracket and removed the sides one at a time, just in case the roof fell down. Drilled out all the capping rivets, loosened the capping buy hand and removed. I then riveted on the new capping, most of the holes lined up fine and only the odd one needed drilling. Then I fitted the first side back on ,with the bottom mounts only loose. Then repeated with the other side. Then it went all back together and nipped everything back up.

My only problems were the bottom seals, which maybe should have been replaced, but I have silicon sealed the join. The other issue was the lower mounts being a bit crusty so I was careful removing them. Also the new cappings required the longer fastenings as James posted, which was solved by the threaded rod connectors.

Pretty happy with the result, and some of the roof bolts were loose, so it is nowhere near as rattly as it was.

No idea on time taken, as it forgot to put my drill batteries on charge, ,which slowed it down a bit drilling out the pop rivets! Should be easily achievable in one day.

I bought a pack of one hundred of the correct pop rivets off eBay for less than £10 some of the parts places want £1 plus per rivet.

If you need any more help, post away.

K

Thanks for that detailed description. So all in all it doesn't sound like a difficult thing to do. Just get the cappings, seals and riverts, maybe some paint, and plenty of time.

Did you use waterproof pop rivets or will any rivets do?

Would love to see some photos of the finished job.

Thanks again, very much appreciated! Always a bit scared to tackle bigger jobs on the Landy as I have to do it all in front of the garage on the (quiet) street.

TheJoker said:

Thanks for that detailed description. So all in all it doesn't sound like a difficult thing to do. Just get the cappings, seals and riverts, maybe some paint, and plenty of time.

Did you use waterproof pop rivets or will any rivets do?

Would love to see some photos of the finished job.

Thanks again, very much appreciated! Always a bit scared to tackle bigger jobs on the Landy as I have to do it all in front of the garage on the (quiet) street.

Click to expand...

I just use closed/sealed rivets.
They don't let water in.

aaronmorris said:

I just use closed/sealed rivets.
They don't let water in.

Click to expand...

Thanks!

Land rover defender 90 110 series 1 2 3 (x100) body capping closed rivets. | eBay

These are the ones I got, glad there are only 20-30 as my poor hands were aching at the end.

Here are some photos, not much different to before, but no big lumps of P40 filler falling out of the cappings now they are new.

Too many toys there, but at least my other car makes the Landy seem economical !

Nice, thanks for the link and the photos. I had a look at mine last night and the tub cappings are actually quite good, it's just the corner cappings and the top of the rear that needs attention. And one side is behind the spare wheel carrier. Hohum.

Rear corners can be separated, and series ones see to fit too, or if you mean the light mount corners, they are available.

Thanks, I've had a look, and I think I'm a bit confused but I do have figured somethings out. The tub capping is in one piece, but you can get some in 2-piece? 90-110 & Defender Body Cappings & Corner Finishers at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

And the one I need is the rear corner angle. MXC8935 - Rear Corner Angle LH 90/110 Galvanised