valve stem seals, brakes, stop cable

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Jamesbil

Jamesbil

New Member
Posts
203
Location
Ireland
Can anyone fill me in on renewing valve oil seals?
I`m pretty sure they are the cause of oil dripping from manifold to exhaust gasket and burnt oil smell.
Its only a rocker off job isnt it?
What extras will I need?
Rocker seal?
Rocker cover gasket?
Am I as well to change valve springs also?

I have just changed all brakes incl cylinders, buy pedal is still spongey and slow to stop the vehicle, its a non servo s 3 diesel, do you think it needs a master cyl?

So I drove it the other day, stopped, everything ok, ran it again a few hours later, tried to stop it only to find the the engine stop pull stuck!
Feels like its inside the barrel, anyone come accross similar?

Thanks all
James
 
I think it's a head off job - you'll need a valve spring compressor to get at the stem seals. I know for some vehicles you can get a tool which allows the springs to be removed without taking the head off but I've never seen one for a landy engine.
Brakes on these are notoriously difficult to bleed - there's plenty of threads in here with suggestions.
Has someone fitted a choke type cable on your vehicle? they have a twist to lock function, try turning the knob anticlockwise and see if it frees up, otherwise it could be rusted up.
 
valve seals are easy enought to do, the proper way to do them is remove the head, that way then you can regrind the valves in when you change the seals, it can be done with the head on but why only do half a job, and you need a valve compressing tool to remove the valves or make your own.
 
theyb can but why only do half a job, also if you drop a bollock/ make a mistake ie have the piston down instead of up when doing the seal you end up stripping the head off anyway, and if you havnt got the gasket because you have cut corners ie by doing it with the head on you then have to chase round looking for new gasket or are you thinking of replacing the gasket you took off.
 
Thanks guys, think i will be able to sort the seals and brakes now!
The stop cable is causing me trouble tho, its not rusted, doesnt turn and pull, just working one min, not the next!
 
the inner wire is as old as the landy, and no doubt at some time in its life as been subject to every sort of weather being thrown at it and the sure way to rectify is remove it from the vehicle and soak it in oil and at the same time slide the outer cable up and down whilst holding the inner cable job done,
 
All looks ok, just feels like somethin inside the ign barrel is stuck/misplaced,
tried bleeding the brakes again, still as bad as when all 4 cyl were siezed!
 
think i found the prob with the brakes.
2 tell-tale puddles of oil!
1 under the rear axle union
1 on the drivers floor mat! dripping off the pedal! I guess the master cyl is shot big time.
anyone tried the cheap ones from paddocs? about £7
also need to replace the copper hose between the rubber one and the wheel cyl, where can i get?

Thanks
James
 
I put a cheap pattern master cylinder in my S3 but I've never been sure it works properly so I'm probably going to replace it. Proper Girling ones aren't that much more expensive.
Any garage should be able to make up a brake pipe, 1 male and 1 female imperial union plus about 9" of pipe, ten minutes work, should be a couple of quid's worth.
 
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