Valve block and driver compatibillity

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benthomas

Active Member
Posts
216
Location
Holmes Chapel Cheshire
I'm going to get hold of a used Valve block and driver pack and have ordered 2 o'ring kits so i can rebuild one fit it then rebuild the other and sell on to get my money back.
Are all valve blocks / driver pack compatible?
What other parts will i need other than the o'ring kit and a suitable tool for removing the o'rings?
 
I'm going to get hold of a used Valve block and driver pack and have ordered 2 o'ring kits so i can rebuild one fit it then rebuild the other and sell on to get my money back.
Are all valve blocks / driver pack compatible?
What other parts will i need other than the o'ring kit and a suitable tool for removing the o'rings?
They are all the same. No special tools needed. Check the valve block is not full of white powder coating the surfaces, if it is, you need a new dryer.
 
Just make sure you do not mix up the coil positions. First time allow at least am hour, better slow and sure, take photo's before you remove things if you are unsure. It can be done one valve at a time if the block is clean. Careful with the non return valve orientation.
 
Already got it printed off wammers, found another guide on from the company ive bought the o'ring set from, a bit less complicated than the link on your guide.

RANGE ROVER P38 EAS AIR SUSPENSION VALVE BLOCK DIAPHRAGM SEAL REPLACEMENT FIX | eBay

Maybe worth saving to your how to page?

Just watched the video of the piston seal replacement. Not something anyone wants to follow or take a lot of notice of in some respects. The piston seal should be nothing like as tight in the cylinder as that. You should use NO lubricant on it. Nor should it be needed to get the seal to fit. That seal is simple to tight and will cause the compressor to fail or overheat. The guide in my EAS "How to" is far better in my view, the one on eBay is a little amateurish and lacks detail.
 
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Just watched the video of the piston seal replacement. Not something anyone wants to follow or take a lot of notice of in some respects. The piston seal should be nothing like as tight in the cylinder as that. You should use NO lubricant on it. Nor should it be needed to get the seal to fit. That seal is simple to tight and will cause the compressor to fail or overheat. The guide in my EAS "How to" is far better in my view, the one on eBay is a little amateurish and lacks detail.
As above NO lubricant:)
 
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