valley pan change

right I have found out where the leak has been coming from and its a corroded valley pan gasket, got one on order ready too be fitted any tips on changing cheers Rich

Fit a composite one and new end seals. (Brit part end seals don't fit properly)

When cleaned up and ready to fit, clamp it down with end seals making sure it matches the inlet ports, special attention to middle 2.

Take your time getting all the bolts back in. They don't line up very well and you dont want to cross thread any.
Torque down in a sensible pattern as you would heads.

It may have a stalling habit without the air leak so may need base idle resetting

will be doing mine at some stage good to know the brit part ones dont fit properly iv got 2 of them sat here where is best for a decent valley gasket and end seals dont fancy using the nrit parts i have sat here now

Probably go genuine. I've got 3 different design sets here. I got the britpart end seals from my local lr garage. They were straight, no S curve in to match the shape of the valley end / block and they didn't fit over the lip properly. Are yours straight? It is possible the garage ordered the wrong part

The britpart composite valley gasket does fit though

this is what i have part no: err7283 seems they only sent me 1 orderd 2 shows 2 on the invoice only 1 in the box with the valley gasket for some reason cant uplaod the photo

If you put a ton gasket on there watch the fingers as they are bloody sharp

Yep, cut my fingers on one just trying to push it into alignment.

got the gasket composite one in the end didn't read the post in time regading the seals and got **** part ones from rimmers so will have too source others going to do rocker cover gaskets as there on there way out whilst under there going too start this week end

well strted too strip dpwn the engine too get too the valley pan, managed too remove the thor unit off the top , Bit of a struggle as the LPG pipes were stuffed every where going too tidy the route of them up when refitting, what is the easiest way too remove the injection rails with out going mad un plugging the injectors

Not sure about Thor but you can't go wrong with hotwire. Its obvious where they go back by the free length of wiring, and the fuel temp sensor has a coloured plug sometimes. If not I wrap it in insulting tape to identify

Can you leave the rails on the inlet and still get the inlet to head bolts out?

Small Blob of instant gasket in 4 corners of block

well its out, the rear 2 valleys have rust around them, looks like this has been changed before and not done properly as it's a comp gasket I have taken out