V8 Cold start cut out

My newly acquired P38 4.6 V8 does not like to start in the mornings when its cold.
It will start but can't maintain tick over without me using the throttle. As Soon as I take my foot off the accelerator to press the brake to put it in gear the engine dies. I have to keep the throttle open at about 1000-1200 RPM then use my other foot on the brake and try and pull away by releasing the brake enough to get the car moving but not enough to go hurtling off my drive into on coming traffic so its a bit of a juggling act and very far from ideal. Once the engine has a little bit of heat it is OK.


Over the last couple of days I have been searching the forum for answers but can't really find a thread with a similar problem anyone any ideas where to start looking.

Coolant temp sensor for the ECU would be the first thing to check/change I think? Can't remember off hand which one it is though.

Well things just went from bad to worse on my fault free car.
I noticed there was a vacuum pipe off the cruise control, so I cut the split end off that and reconnected it. After driving for a little while the suspension went upto its maximum setting while doing 70mph and now its saying EAS fault, but the book symbol went on the Aircon display.

I have disconnected the vacuum pipe and it made no difference to the EAS fault, does the EAS use vacuum ?
and does the aircon use vacuum ?

crossa said:

I have disconnected the vacuum pipe and it made no difference to the EAS fault, does the EAS use vacuum ?
and does the aircon use vacuum ?

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The EAS does not use vacuum, nor as far as I'm aware does the aircon.
Might be worth checking battery connections and the underbonnet fusebox for signs smells of burning.

Thanks just done that and there was a smell of burning I have replaced most of the yellow relays as 3 of them showed sighns of over heating i.e brown marks on the top.
I do have a spare fuse box so Im going to pop that on if it shows no improvement.

crossa said:

Thanks just done that and there was a smell of burning I have replaced most of the yellow relays as 3 of them showed sighns of over heating i.e brown marks on the top.
I do have a spare fuse box so Im going to pop that on if it shows no improvement.

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The bloody fuse box is the root cause of a lot of P38 problems. Seems pretty sad to me that LR can't even make something as simple as a fuse box properly

Yep I will be swapping that tomorrow after work I wont need my car as I cycle to work.
I may also invest in one of these EAS fault kickers.

crossa said:

Yep I will be swapping that tomorrow after work I wont need my car as I cycle to work.
I may also invest in one of these EAS fault kickers.

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If you have a laptop, download the free EAS software from www.rswsolutions.com

But I still need the lead

Datatek thanks I have downloaded the software and ordered a lead and I will be able to use that with other software as well so thats a bonus.
The starting problem seems to be fixed by reconnecting the vacuum pipe. So fingers crossed on that one.