Urgent alternator help needed!!!
- Thread starter ricky31290
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Galvernisednuts
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This is the trouble with free advice
Very dissapointed
Could've rewired the whole bloody car by now
Very dissapointed
Could've rewired the whole bloody car by now
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Silverlandy
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Galvernisednuts
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Lmfao I'm enjoying this !!
Draw summit else ;-p
Draw summit else ;-p
the_wolf
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Wow MHM that was amazing. I could even feel the heat from the fire it was that realistic!
the_wolf
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Here's an easy one Dicky. Attach a cable or wire to the positive terminal of a battery. Touch the opposite end of said cable/wire to a piece of bare metal bodywork on the vehicle. What happens?
Galvernisednuts
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The battery lamp comes on dunnit? Lol
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Galvernisednuts
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Ha ha
Maybe fitting a different land rover to the alternator is the answer
Maybe fitting a different land rover to the alternator is the answer
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Attachments
IamRobbie
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This thread was well worth the read!! haha!
I understood the first pic but not the second
Silverlandy
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This thread was well worth the read!! haha!
I understood the first pic but not the second
Yep. Clueless, me.
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reet then gurlies - what do you not understand?
what do you think the picture is of?
What do you think the ??? mean?
what do you think the picture is of?
What do you think the ??? mean?
GRATCH
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I can see pricky12345's problem- I bet his Imp has escaped from his wiring loom. He should replace it with a goblin or a fairy.
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ah - OK - it is LAMP - not IMP
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
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Are they batting for the wrong side?
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the V's are the flames of the fire demons tails
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If we assume the battery is producing 12VDC with a constant flow rate of 7 within the cross-ratio inductance limits of -8 to +12, a simple calculation using the vector approach capacitance factor of .237, multiplied by the overall impedance of the entire circuit, less the impedance of the ignition circuit measured in Floretts and then converted to Ohms (assuming an overall reduction in Joules of 19), the result will be so easy to see, you'll wonder why it was so hard in the first place.
zeaphod
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It's been fun. But in the interests of world peace, here is what 5 seconds on Google can do: The last bit explains why your alternator was not charging the battery. Fix the wiring and get the bulb working, and you will have a working alternator with a warning circuit.
The field windings are supplied power from the battery via the ignition switch and regulator. A parallel circuit supplies the "charge" warning indicator and is earthed via the regulator.(which is why the indicator is on when the ignition is on but the engine is not running). Once the engine is running and the alternator is generating power, a diode feeds the field current from the alternator main output equalizing the voltage across the warning indicator which goes off. The wire supplying the field current is often referred to as the "exciter" wire. The drawback of this arrangement is that if the warning lamp burns out or the "exciter" wire is disconnected, no current reaches the field windings and the alternator will not generate power.
The field windings are supplied power from the battery via the ignition switch and regulator. A parallel circuit supplies the "charge" warning indicator and is earthed via the regulator.(which is why the indicator is on when the ignition is on but the engine is not running). Once the engine is running and the alternator is generating power, a diode feeds the field current from the alternator main output equalizing the voltage across the warning indicator which goes off. The wire supplying the field current is often referred to as the "exciter" wire. The drawback of this arrangement is that if the warning lamp burns out or the "exciter" wire is disconnected, no current reaches the field windings and the alternator will not generate power.
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