Disco 2 Uprated turbo suggestions?

After getting my TD5 remapped I've been having a squeal coming from under the bonnet at around 2k rpm. Initially suspected the exhaust manifold since I've heard this can be common, but my mechanic checked and says its not - he reckons its from the turbo and suggests considering an uprated one to better match the remapped engine.

I don't have a clue what I'm looking for, so was hoping for suggestions/recommendations of what I should be looking for?

Thanks

Whip the turbo heatshield off then double check the manifold. Half of its hidden underneath. Standard turbo is fine for stage 1 remap
If you've got a decat front pipe you'll hear turbo whine more

1988smithy said:

Whip the turbo heatshield off then double check the manifold. Half of its hidden underneath. Standard turbo is fine for stage 1 remap

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I wouldn't have much of a clue what I'm looking for tbh. I'd hope that my mechanic would have done this. Is it pretty obvious even to a novice like me if the manifold has warped?

Naf623 said:

I wouldn't have much of a clue what I'm looking for tbh. I'd hope that my mechanic would have done this. Is it pretty obvious even to a novice like me if the manifold has warped?

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You will see the black soot being blown out from the manifold staining the side of the block

2 10mm bolts to remove and 2 rivets to drill out, easy peasy there is a 3rd bolt at the rear of the heatshield but I never bother attempting that one its a right ba*stard prop it up with a piece of wood or something to give a better view of manifold. I doubt your mechanic did this tbh.

Have you got a decat front pipe on it?

1988smithy said:

2 10mm bolts to remove and 2 rivets to drill out, easy peasy there is a 3rd bolt at the rear of the heatshield but I never bother attempting that one its a right ba*stard prop it up with a piece of wood or something to give a better view of manifold. I doubt your mechanic did this tbh.

Have you got a decat front pipe on it?

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Drilling out rivets, your probably right that he didn't then :-/ I'm not exactly keen on the prospect... will have to check the size of the pop rivets I have around to put it back again.

I haven't got a clue; but I would guess not. I've only had her a couple of months, and all the previous owner's mods seem to have been for aesthetics rather than performance.

Check all the intake pipework first for loose clips, incorrectly seated, loose airbox. Could be intake whistle if somethings loose. Can you hear where it's coming from Exactly? Definitely exhaust side of engine and round turbo? Few hoses you can check that side. Try all the easy stuff first lol

So full symptoms:
- Its a squeal that to my untrained ear from inside the car sounds a little like a belt slipping.
- It kicks in just above 2k rpm and goes away again by 2500
- It rarely happens in 4th or 5th, sometimes doesn't happen in 3rd either. Very rarely it doesn't happen at all in any gear.
- I haven't been able to notice any particular trend relating to warm/cold engine - it came and went along the 3 hour journeys we made on Thursday and Sunday.
- It's worst when I put my foot down to accelerate, but doesn't necessarily kick in when I need that power going uphill.
- I haven't really noticed any drop in power as far as I can tell.
- Boss had a brief look and it's definitely from the turbo side of the engine - he did think probably exhaust manifold.

Like this?

1988smithy said:

Like this?

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Doesn't sound anywhere near as loud in the video as it does in mine; but I'd say its the same noise, yeah.

Naf623 said:

Doesn't sound anywhere near as loud in the video as it does in mine; but I'd say its the same noise, yeah.

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Get that heatshield off then me old pal!

Rivets to drill out?
I have always just undun the 2 10mm's on top and a small extension bar through the rear hole to get the awkward nut, and out it comes.

Jamiegreen said:

Rivets to drill out?
I have always just undun the 2 10mm's on top and a small extension bar through the rear hole to get the awkward nut, and out it comes.

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Always 2 rivets as well ime, you must be been lucky and had yours missing

Bit of luck myself tbh, on my 110 the rear bolt can stay in cuz the brackets snapped

@Jamiegreen rivets in this bracket. Little b*stards

1988smithy said:

@Jamiegreen rivets in this bracket. Little b*stards

View attachment 156134

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I always drill them out and use bolts . makes life easier for future work.

Cheers

neilly said:

I always drill them out and use bolts . makes life easier for future work.

Cheers

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Yep, I've used large self tappers as well

You dont need the heatsheild.

Turbo technics, allisport, TD5Inside do good turbos however what ever turbo you fit your map will have to be adjusted to suit.

Jamiegreen said:

Rivets to drill out?
I have always just undun the 2 10mm's on top and a small extension bar through the rear hole to get the awkward nut, and out it comes.

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I have also removed it several times, no issue. Maybe my back bolt was not seized.

1988smithy said:

@Jamiegreen rivets in this bracket. Little b*stards

View attachment 156134

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Ah I see what you mean, lucky on both my disco's the back bolt came out just fine so I could leave the rivets in there, and of course replaced with stainless bolts

Well that was a royal pain in the ass, and I'm none the wiser. Couldn't get the heat shield all the way off for two other rivets round the back; and couldn't bend it out of the way properly for pipes going over the top
I've tried to get a decent image of what I did see, so maybe someone can see something?
You can sort of see in the still image and at the start of the video that there's blackening at the far end (closest to the rest of the car); the rest looks like a bit of corrosion here and there but little else.