P38A upper ball joint laughing at me

[URL=http://s971.photobucket.com/user/johnnysensi/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151230_105801_resized.jpg.html][/URL] is it grinder and chisel time yet

You need a tube an inch or so long just less than the diameter of the part on your new ball joint that engages in the axle eye. Put that in from below and press the husk out. Lots of Plusgas or a little heat on the eye will assist. But beware Plusgas is flammable.

Haven't got any of the above products and no money mate...I was just going get grinder on it and see what falls out or blow torch n hammer lol or both lol...

johnnysensi said:

Haven't got any of the above products and no money mate...I was just going get grinder on it and see what falls out or blow torch n hammer lol or both lol...

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Not usual for them to be that tight, did you have the correct size ring on the top over the ball joint and resting on the axle eye?

well it looks like you put the black adapter plate straight onto the taper spindle and then just pushed that up through the capping cover
should have been an adapter ring that fits around the spindle and pushes on the barrel of the ball joint that you then push up and out

Thank you nick...was probably my fault as I didn't have a smaller adapter ring on ...many thanks for educating me ...saying that they are corroded to bits as well and the adapter ring makes pure sense...been avin a nite mare. .nerve in back went ..then 2 days ago groin strain from running upstairs lol...happy new year x

Hold on...there's no shaft to press out ...it's the top corroded on ....everything else has been burnt alive or fell out lol

no shaft? you mean the bit from the middle? burnt? wondering what youve tried to get it out now!!!
OK the ball joint is a press fit into the yolk, that step is to locate it so its seated at the right depth.
You need a round bit of tube that WILL fit through the yolk eye but is wide enough to push against the ball joint,
in the diagram number 4 is a cup thats wide enough to fit the whole ball joint in but will seat onto the yolk, open end to bottom,
2 is the tube that pushes the joint up into the top can.
As the nice man in Preston said, they arent stupidly tight, very snug but bit of plusgas and the right tool should be easy enough to extract

P.s the ring was correct ànd I have a different machine ..the vice one ...I was doing it right with my machine ...I've tried heat n hammer so far
..other side is same ..

When u look up where the spindle ised to be with torch ...there is no shaft or step to suggest anything is there to push up on

look at the new one, you should see a machined part that will be the bit that goes into the axle and then it finishes being machined and increases in diameter this is the shoulder that pushes up against the axle. you should see what sizes are referred to

never used a posh puller/puser to do them......oxy acetylene burner torch and a hammer. To put them back in....put the new joints in the freezer NOW, give the hole in the axle a wee heat to expand it and drop the frozen joints in the holes easy.

Think you are correct bruv

Jesus H Christ how can you make such a meal out of a simple job?

Put up a picture of the setup you are using with the press kit you have got. There has to be something not right, as I've used and recommended the widely available eBay kit and it has all the bits needed to do the job.

I've done 4 P38's now and 3 of them were a LOT more rusted in than those look like, and they pressed straight out with the press kit and a 4ft breaker bar. In fact pressing the joints in/out was the quickest part of the whole job!