Series 3 Upgrade to blade fusebox

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
N

neilc75

Active Member
Posts
190
Location
Birmingham
I've always wanted to keep the series as original as possible but also want to keep it running as well as possible , I am going to install a reverse light over the next few days and I want to tidy the fuse box up and allow for poss additions , Halfords have a bladed fusebox for about £5 , it's looks easy to fit, due to existing wire length it will need to go in the same position as the original , apart from tidying things up are there any benefits to doing this , is it worth it , for £6 surely its worth a go , I have tightened the connections up but occasionally the glass fuses do become a bit loose
 
There's also a few things on the internet about blade fuses needing a lower amp than glass fuses , surely you should change the glass amp fuse with exactly the same amp blade fuse ?
 
neilc75 said:
There's also a few things on the internet about blade fuses needing a lower amp than glass fuses , surely you should change the glass amp fuse with exactly the same amp blade fuse ?
Click to expand...
it is down to the speed at which they blow etc and the fact that glass fuses blow at the rated current. Blade fuses are designed to take the rated current continuously and blow at a higher rating. Try using a blade fuse of 1/2 to 2/3 rating required.
 
Last edited:
I've fitted a six blade to my 101 from cbs which has red led which lights up when fuse blown it runs fuel pump and electric fan at the mo but the rest will be used for accesories...still to fit is a 10 blade in place of main fuse block going to fit that when I redo dash its a wiring mass...if you go that route I would go for the led style...
 
Shippers said:
I've fitted a six blade to my 101 from cbs which has red led which lights up when fuse blown it runs fuel pump and electric fan at the mo but the rest will be used for accesories...still to fit is a 10 blade in place of main fuse block going to fit that when I redo dash its a wiring mass...if you go that route I would go for the led style...
Click to expand...
v good, but a lot more expensive, last time i looked.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
v good, but a lot more expensive, last time i looked.
Click to expand...

Your right they are but in the project I'm building and at the cost I bought the 101 for worth it I think...might start a thread in the project forum now its articulated...if anyone's interested...
 
I fitted blade fuses and have a mixed expereince. Its good to have more fuses and ones that are eaiser to get, but the higher current ones get hot and its not easy to clean the holder contacts, You can use a points file then squeeze them up but it a fiddle. My highest one it running 15-20A so its well in limits but it still heats up.
 
Thanks for the advice , the reason I wanted to upgrade is that I wanted to add a reverse light with the proper switch in the selector box and thought if I fitted blades with more slots then I would be able to fit further electrics at a later time if needed , if I stick to the glass fuses can I splice into a live feed into the fuse box and fit a blade fuse on the wire for the switch . I genuinely thought that if I fitted a blade fuse box (the kind where the wires enter from the back) then I could literally unplug the parallel spades and plug them into the new box and fit the corresponding fuses in ie 15 AMP TO 15 AMP , however I have heard that old glass fuses cannot be swapped directly for the same AMP blade fuses as they may warm up , I also don’t have an interior light so if the splice into the live works I might use this simplier process.
 
rob1miles said:
I have some of these screwed to the bulkhead behind the dash - I take the power from the fuse to one then take off the cicuits I want, you link the terminals together on one side and take the cicuits off the other using crimp connectors. You can put two on one screw so you can expand it..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Barrier-...2c3053af:m:mV7zaf74U0ADE04xPxxQrXQ:rk:40:pf:0
Click to expand...
So you can use these off glass fuses? , So do you splice a wire to the existing glass fuse and branch it off to this new box or take the actual wire to the glass fuse and place it in this box and fuse the original glass fuse circuit through it with a blade fuse?
hope this makes sense , im interested in doing this , ill have a look
 
Mine had already had the glass fuses removed so the decsion was made for me. You could take the wire from each fuse to one block then tank the loads from the block either as they are or with in-line fuses for ones that you think are suspect. You could also take the wire to the terminal block off before the glass fuse, leave some cicuits via the glass fuse and some via the new terminal block and new fuses.
I have something like this inside where I can get to it:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Truc...=item1c9ed308b5:g:p6sAAOSwqaJaYvKO:rk:19:pf:0
These on other circuits I want to protect:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pcs-1...h=item25eb1749a6:g:DJEAAOSwtBdaYDBN:rk:7:pf:0
and these on the headlights and fan where I wanted the power wire to go the shortest route from the battery, the wire to the switch now operates the relay not the load:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fused-On...h=item3aaf3c86fb:g:fBEAAOSwbopZVgg8:rk:2:pf:0
I think the fused relays are a great idea, it makes it very easy to fuse things like the heater, wipers and healdlights without a lot of extra wires, you connect the relay to the power and load and use the existing wire from the switch to operate it and add an earth. Means the main load by passes the glass fuses.
 
I've got the little fuse box so I'm setting about thinking where to put what , I'm going on a 400 mile trip to Yorkshire on Christmas Day and it will be COLD !! . Years ago in a car I owned I had one of those heaters from eBay that plugged into the lighter ( don't have a lighter in Landy ) , to be fair it was pretty crap but warm and kept blowing the fuse , however if I hardwire one into new fusebox ( thinking 20 steps ahead) would this work ? , my heater works but it's not great , what fuse should I use ?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/202495713982


To be fair , looking at this one it appears its useless and dangerous , this was just so you get an idea of what I mean , looking at them they all have pretty bad reviews
 
What type of heater do you have? It is worth getting it to work as best it can. Mine has the flat heater and it works well. It didn't work very well when I got the Series, the matrix was full of dog hair, the pipes were a bit clogged and the fan was wired up wrong. I suspect you will find several things wrong with your heater too.
 
rob1miles said:
What type of heater do you have? It is worth getting it to work as best it can. Mine has the flat heater and it works well. It didn't work very well when I got the Series, the matrix was full of dog hair, the pipes were a bit clogged and the fan was wired up wrong. I suspect you will find several things wrong with your heater too.
Click to expand...

This. Make sure it's working as well as it can before thinking about bolt-on fixes. Same goes for a lot of things on a Land Rover which work fine as long as they're not broken.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

WelshJeepster
Station wagon to rag top
Replies
5
Views
684
Dorset_dumpling
Dorset_dumpling
N
Bulkhead to Upper Dash Series 3
Replies
3
Views
612
ncompass
N
herby1
Advice on new blade fuses series 3
Replies
6
Views
1K
Shedload
S
A
Fitting station wagon windows to 109 panel van
Replies
2
Views
1K
Wildefalcon
W
P
New centre console sat nav upgrade
Replies
3
Views
723
Nodge68
Nodge68
Back
Top