Update on my EAS problem, urgent help required now please

wammers said:

Well either the ECU going tits up on just one corner is the biggest coincidence in modern times or someone is not being told something. Lets wait for Land Rover technical to run their eyes over it.

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To be fair to the garage they do at least seem to be trying hard to resolve it.

I'm surprised LR techical are even interested!

Guy

Good that LR tech are involved; will either show garage are inept, or a really weird one we can maybe all learn from??

kooky_guy said:

To be fair to the garage they do at least seem to be trying hard to resolve it.

I'm surprised LR techical are even interested!

Guy

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Yeah they do. These things happen now and again and a totally simple job becomes a bloody nightmare. Still think there maybe something gone on we don't know about though. Unless the OP and the garage have been bloody unlucky and it is coincidental. But for the ECU to go wrong on the very corner that has just been changed does seem a bit of a long shot unless there was some outside influence. We will have to wait and see. Hate to think how much an ECU is.

wammers said:

Yeah they do. These things happen now and again and a totally simple job becomes a bloody nightmare. Still think there maybe something gone on we don't know about though. Unless the OP and the garage have been bloody unlucky and it is coincidental. But for the ECU to go wrong on the very corner that has just been changed does seem a bit of a long shot unless there was some outside influence. We will have to wait and see. Hate to think how much an ECU is.

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Plenty on ebag. No need for a new one.

Thank you all and special thanks to Wammers & Datatek, I'm sure I will get to the bottom of this one??? But if not where the hell I go from here I'm not quiet sure. trying another ECU is the last part of the puzzle.

Don't do that yet, try the ECU Doctor. I sent mine away & they do an extensive soak test - £45 if nothing wrong, or they will repair if necessary. They keep all records for anyone who need the data & each job gets a unique serial number & sticker on the returned unit. They are here..

The ECU Doctor

I'm sure they will help

Usefull info:

Air Suspension Faults, Diagnosis and Repair

Geoffrey Miller's website

Latest update on my EAS saga!
Its been nearly 4 weeks now without my RR. She is still laid up in the garage with this bloody EAS problem.
The garage called me last Friday to inform me dispite a full valve block rebuild, New compressor, New driver pack, 2 front height sensors, 3 new air springs (other air spring fine) twice ystem re-calibrated, looked at by Land Rover Main agent tech the problem can't be resolved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After all this it now appears the sinking N/S front has stopped and she is sitting level, but the compressor problem is still there. It still keeps running every 15 seconds to the pont where it's over heating and shutting down. As previously posted their are no leaks what so ever does not sink a mm over night all beeen measured. Problem starts when engine is started. Garage seem to think could be the EAS ECU they gonna try another one. There was a Land Rover Technical report issued Re: P38's built between 1998 / 1999 within in a certain VIN / Chassis No that there were EAS ECU problems and that tey can become corrupt?? I have googled this and found the report. gonna try and find it again and post on here.
I Will keep you posted on further developments.

Have they checked for a pressure drop in the storage side causing the compressor to cycle. If the compressor is turning on and off the air it is making has to be going somewhere. If it is not refilling a depleated tank it should cause the safety valve under the valve block to blow off. Get them to T a pressure gauge into the violet pipe going into valve block and watch for pressure drop when compressor stops. Compressor should only come on when pressure drops below 110 psi +-7 psi or so when switch is closed and ECU closes compressor relay. Compressor supposedly CANNOT come on with pressure switch open circuit. It might be worth tailing the pressure switch to a test meter to see what it is doing.

Have they tried it with the bonnet closed? The compressor cycles constantly on mine and the pressure realease goes with the bonnet open. Shut the bonnet and all is normal.

Thanks Wammers & Datatek, I will be phoning garage this afternoon with your advice.
And will keep you both posted.

Datatek said:

Have they tried it with the bonnet closed? The compressor cycles constantly on mine and the pressure realease goes with the bonnet open. Shut the bonnet and all is normal.

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Keith you have one strange P38 if it does that.

Datatek said:

Have they tried it with the bonnet closed? The compressor cycles constantly on mine and the pressure realease goes with the bonnet open. Shut the bonnet and all is normal.

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I have 7 p38's and none of them do that
the only time one did keep blowing off is when i had renewed the air bags and serviced the pump.Opening the door and running the engine till the tank had charged and a couple of up and down cycles and all was good

i don't know anything about this system, but when you change the height sensor, does the wiring to loom get changed too, or does the new sensor plug in to old flexible wiring?

If the latter, perhaps wiring broken inside, so signal lost as wire pulls up?

All this is in my imagination, so probably bollocks. But its helping me pass the time on the train

jonbill said:

i don't know anything about this system, but when you change the height sensor, does the wiring to loom get changed too, or does the new sensor plug in to old flexible wiring?

If the latter, perhaps wiring broken inside, so signal lost as wire pulls up?

All this is in my imagination, so probably bollocks. But its helping me pass the time on the train

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It's the sensor arm that moves, not the wires

wammers said:

Keith you have one strange P38 if it does that.

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Yep, it's always done it, works perfectly otherwise. All doors shut, engine running, bonnet open, compressor cycles. Must see if the 96 spares dog does it before I remove the engine and gearbox.

Thanks all, I phoned garage this afternoon, and they are now trying another ECU and also the Leak test on the tank as Wammers stated in his post. Re: Datatek and the compressor running with bonnet open, mine does it weather bonnet open or closed. They checked diapharagm and said all ok. I have since now been told could be a faulty rear height sensor on the rear N/S affecting the front.

I've looked at the workshop manual now, and as you say its only the sensor arms that move.

As said elsewhere in the thread, it would be a really unlucky coincidence if the fault is unrelated to the work done to change that front airbag.
I think that applies to the suggestion that it could be a faulty rear height sensor... that height sensor was fine before the front air bag was changed, wasn't it!

Datatek said:

Yep, it's always done it, works perfectly otherwise. All doors shut, engine running, bonnet open, compressor cycles. Must see if the 96 spares dog does it before I remove the engine and gearbox.

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Strange indeed. The only thing electrical the bonnet actuates is the bonnet open switch. But bonnet being open does not stop EAS from adjusting as do all other open doors. Would be interesting if you opened bonnet then open circuited the bonnet switch and see if it stops compressor cycling. That would be a new one on me if it did.

All my led lights are on on the EAS dashboard indicator and my car won't go. I have disconnected the battery to hopefully reset everything and the battery is fully charged. What should I do please?