Update on my EAS problem, urgent help required now please

captvx said:

All my led lights are on on the EAS dashboard indicator and my car won't go. I have disconnected the battery to hopefully reset everything and the battery is fully charged. What should I do please?

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anorakmark said:

Update Thr 24/03/11
Hi all,
The garage called today to inform me the new ECU had arrived so it's been fitted and fault still there. The fault is the compressor constantly running every 15 seconds and over heating. They have been back on to Land Rover Techinical who are still baffeled and asked them to try changing the feed line from the valve block to resvoir??
I'm also getting advice that it may be a faulty rear height sensors although these have been checked and all seem ok.
A little give away this
may be, the garage who have had my Range Rover for a month now say they have not worked on it for 5 days Re: awaiting delivery of the ECc and they noticed that she was sitting on her bump stops after 5 days, is this normal for this period of time??
I will re-cap on the new parts fitted or swapped in the light of trying to solve this problem
2 new rear air springs
1 new front N/S air spring, O/S almost new
2 New front Height Sensors.
Valve block o ring rebuild
Driver pack swapped from donor vehicle
Valve block swapped from donor vehicle
compressor swapped from donor vehicle
EAS re-calibrated 2 times
All height sensors & wiring looms tested and all fine
New ECU fitted
been checked for leaks?? but why is she dropping to bump stops after 5 days?
Investigated by Land Rover Techinical but to no avail
So we are back to square one problem still not solved as stated in previous post the front N/S has stopped sinking 2 inches every 10 seconds and now sits straight but the compressor is still kicking in every 15 seconds and over heating.
The exhaust valve has been tested and all ok, Diaphram been tested all ok.
Comments please HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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anorakmark said:

Hi Wammers,
I did mention this to them over the phone, not sure if they have done that will phone them tomorrow. I have been no where near my RR for a month, When I went to collect it from them after the work was done and messed up I walked away and told them fix it or I'm off to consumer direct & trading standards which I have. They inform me under the sale of goods act 1982 the parts and repair work must be fit for purpurse. They say they are spending a whole day on it on Monday if not done I'm gonna collect car and continue with legal action, don't know what else to do. All I know is my RR did not have this fault before it went to the bloody garage.

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wammers said:

I will say agian if the compressor is constantly cycling the air it is making MUST be going somewhere. It cannot just keep filling tank past it's over pressure point or safety valve under valve block will be constantly blowing off. If it is coming on and air is being vented from exhaust when it stops. There HAS to be a leak in the pressure storage side.

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Datatek said:

I think you are flogging a dead horse on this one Tony, garage mechs are out of their depth and not going through it logically.

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wammers said:

Would seem so Keith. The pressure switch should be open circuit at around 8.5 bar (125psi) (pump running) and closed at around 10 bar (147 psi) (pump off). Theoretically the pressure switch should not go open circuit again to switch the pump on until pressure drops to 8.5 bar. Switch works on a + or - 7 psi band so if it is working + 7 at low range and - 7 at high range instead of having a 22 psi differential it could well only have a 8 psi differential. Any slight leak in pressure side would see it cycling as it is doing. Think your right these bods don't know their arse from their elbow.

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Datatek said:

Hi Tony, this is a bit cheeky but the RAVE figure for cut in are 104 to 116 psi, 7.8 to 8 bar and cut out at 138 to 152 psi, 9.5 to 10.5 bar. So worst case there should be a range of 22psi and best case 48psi. But as you rightly say a small leak on the storage side will soon drop the pressure enough to cycle the compressor. I suppose the pressure switch could be shot?

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wammers said:

Ok Keith have had a look and it does indeed say what you said in general info. But knowhere does it say in that text 8.5 bar which is what it says open circuit is on leccy diagrams. Somebody at Land Rover obviously got a little confused i think.

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Datatek said:

I've said it before Tony and got hammered for it, but there are lots of errors in RAVE. The technical writers were the same quality as the designers
Fortunately a number of the errors are obvious because depending where you look the info is different for the same thing, so then it's just a matter of working out which is right or if both are wrong

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wammers said:

Well it maybe the case that this particular vehicle is not fitted with a pressure switch at all but a fifteen second timer.

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Datatek said:

Nah I reckon you are on the right track regardless of the setting at which the switch operates. Unless as I said it's a duff pressure switch, a leak has got to be the favorite. Could even be an exhaust blow has melted the pipe to the reservoir a little.

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wammers said:

If air is escaping through the diaphragm solenoid valve fed by the 4mm pipe it goes out through the exhaust filter so you can't hear it. You have to take filter out and put your finger over outlet to feel any pressure loss.

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Datatek said:

You know a lot more than me about the valve block Tony, so far I have not had the time to strip one, I have 3 waiting to be done. I don't regard it as particularly complicated. My own design ECU drove up to 40 solenoid controlled air valves scattered around a bloody great machine, tracking down what happend when the sequence aborted was interesting!

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wammers said:

The diaphragm solenoid valve solenoid is the only one with a square seal on the bottom. All the others have the seal recess but no seal fitted. If that seal is not in place you will get a leak around the base of the solenoid. Most important thing is NOT to over tighten screws that hold valves in place or they deform causing leaks from the O rings. Rubbing the valve bases in a figure of eight motion on a sheet of 400 wet or dry on a piece of glass, flattens them out. When i put screws in i use Hylomar as a soft thread lock and just barely nip them.

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Datatek said:

Thanks for that, I will bear it in mind when I get round to doing my first valve block.

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wammers said:

It's easy simple stuff really, just mark the solenoids so they go back in same place. Valve blocks get blamed for a lot of things they have nothing to do with though, but they must be free of leaks to give you a chance. The inlet, exhaust and diaphragm solenoid valves have little springs in the end of them (easy to lose). That is because they are held open when in use. The four corner valves have much stronger springs built into solenoid plunger itself. They are pulsed open and dropped to allow air flow that is the ticking you can hear when height adjusments are made. That is because holding them open against the strong spring would over heat the coils and burn them out. Make sure when you do the NRVs that the conical nose guides don't have any flats worn on them that can snag the seat and leave the valve partially open. Carefully remove lips with a very fine file. Mine were not too good so if i ever strip again will make new ones in lathe. Don't think you can buy them. Although they must be available from somewhere otherwise the blokes who refurb blocks could not do their job. Will have to look into that.

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