Freelander 1 Tyre Query on 2005 TD4

Hi All, I've got a 2005 TD4 Freelander, around 100k on the clock. Last year I had the VCU removed as it was on its way out and advised best to get rid (or spend 1500 quid on a new one). So it's now effectively a 2WD. Just had a new pair of tyres put on the front of the car.........now I know the usual advice is to put the new ones on the back but the tyre chap said it wasn't necessary as it's now a 2WD. Is that the right advice or should the new ones still go on the back? Many thanks for any advice. Cheers, Rikky

A new VCU doesn't cost £1500!!. A decent reconditioned unit is under £300.
If you are using it as a 2WD. Make sure you inform your insurance company. A 2WD Freelander is classified as a modified vehicle and often comes with a premium increase!

As to your question. You can fit new tyres to wherever you want, while it's a 2WD.

It was always good practice, that new tyres go on the back of any vehicle. But few places suggest that these days.

Thanks for the input. The bloke at the garage who took off the VCU had suggested it was a 1500 quid job............he also said there was no need to inform the insurance company.........so additional query would be now that it is a 2WD does that need to be told to the insurer? Cheers

rikky666 said:

Thanks for the input. The bloke at the garage who took off the VCU had suggested it was a 1500 quid job............he also said there was no need to inform the insurance company.........so additional query would be now that it is a 2WD does that need to be told to the insurer? Cheers

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The garage bloke doesn't know what he's talking about. It's NOT a £1500 job to replace the VCU and it DOES require the insurance company be notified if it's 2WD converted.

The job may have been £1,500 if the faulty VCU was identified because it knackered the IRD! Or the wording was that it might be £1,500 if the IRD was affected.

I forget what the breakdown between IRD and VCU was, but when mine went, the price over here to replace them was going to be $7,500 (parts only) - that's almost £4K at today's rate - and is also why its now 2WD!

Dunno about tyres - but chains go on the front

Hi Rikky, new tyres on the front when running in "2wd mode" is fine.

Just wondering why your mechanic friend thinks the VCU has gone? Seems a reasonably low mileage for a later FL to have problems (unless abused???)

Might the problem actually be "something else"? Wouldn't be the first time!

Hi Rob, thanks for the input. The reason I took the car to the garage was there was an increasing knocking noise coming from the rear when the car changed gear. That got marginally worse over time so took it to the garage and the bloke advised that the VCU was on the way out so best to take the whole thing off. To be fair the knocking did stop and the car runs ok as a 2WD and he did say that if the VCU failed it would be an even worse issue. I've had the landy for nearly 10 years now, bought it when it was 4 years old with 28 000 miles on the clock and it looked and drove like it had been well looked after (FSH as well). We've REALLY looked after the car and it's not done any off road work and it's main use is the school run and the like so it's not been abused at all............is it the case that the VCU could've been the problem or would those symptoms suggest something else.............just not sure how good the local garage bloke is really!!

I'm still learning about cars, but in my experience, mechanics have a habit of not asking the right questions and then leaping to the wrong diagnosis!

I'm not saying that your VCU isn't at fault (it can be replaced by Bell Engineering (no relation!!!)for around £250), but the knocking could be rear diff bushes failing?

Thanks Rob. It's interesting as I did do my usual search on landyzone when the knocking started and I suggested the rear diff bushes to the bloke at the garage..........he was dismissive and said it was the VCU...........given that the knocking has now gone would there still be knocking if it had the bushes now the VCU had been removed? Cheers

Knocking at the rear, particularly when changing gear is a rear diff bush, generally the front one. It's a £20 part that takes under 30 minutes to replace.
To me it doesn't sound like this bloke should be anywhere near a Freelander.
Definitely inform your insurance company, if you continue to use it as a 2WD.
Alternatively reinstate the 4WD and use it when it snows.

Disconnecting the VCU would mean not torque transfer to the rear diff and therefore no noise.

I suspect your original diagnosis was actually the right one. And Nodge is likely right that this particular mechanic could not really be called a "Hippo whisperer" lol

I completely agree with what the guys say Rikky. The knocking from the rear is 99% sure to be the front mount for the rear diff - the diff has 3 mounts, 2 at the back of it and 1 at the front. The ones at the back don't wear much, but the one at the front has a much harder life and does (basically) fall to bits over time. As Nodge says, its no biggie in terms of cost or time to replace - but do use a genuine LR/OEM one because an aftermarket one might only last a couple of weeks.

I've been running my Freelander 2WD for a number of years now after catastrophic transmission failure. I find it a great car like this and its been perfectly reliable, but it has hindered where I can take it. Only a couple of weeks ago I got embarrassingly stuck on some wet grass whilst surrounded by 25 "big" landies!!!!!! Admittedly I had just tried to take it 15km up a river bed, where it did go until it got to noisy in the cabin from rocks hitting the car and bits falling off of it! So I think the whole grass thing was the car telling me not to be so stupid in future

It is up to you whether you install the props again - if you do make sure all the tyres are the same make/model and do the 1 wheel up test to make sure the VCU is good, basically...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

As said before, if you do need a new VCU it won't cost £1,500! If you need it though, probably best to get new support bearings for it as well - and same buying advice for those as well.... use Genuine/OEM or else you'll be replacing them again in a couple of weeks/months.

If you continue to run without props, I'd also say to let your insurance company know. Your insurance might look good for a quick police check or small claim - but in the event of something serious happening and the insurance company send out an assesor, you need to cover your backside.

Thanks all for your considered replies..........grateful to you all. My take on this is I will get an opinion from someone else to see if it is the rear diff mounts. Am I right in assuming that anyone who knows their stuff will be able to tell if it is a rear diff brush by having a look under the car? If it does turn out to be that would the suggestion be to put the VCU/prop back on? Thanks again.........Rikky

The diff mounts are easy to check. Any mechanic with an ounce of common sense should spot one that has failed.

In my opinion, the Freelander drives better as an AWD and is safer on tricky ground.

Adding in the insurance issues, it's definitely better to have the propshafts reinstalled.

Thanks again to all for your consideration. Just a brief follow up query........I've got the prop/vcu/shaft on the garage floor as I kept it after it was removed. Is there any way I can tell that the VCU is still operational now it's off the car? Long shot I know but given the vast knowledge here I thought someone might have an idea..........cheers. Rikky

There is a way, but requires an industrial lathe and some lateral thinking!

I suspect much easier to reinstall and test on the car...

rob_bell said:

There is a way, but requires an industrial lathe and some lateral thinking!

I suspect much easier to reinstall and test on the car...

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If you have the bench mounted vise, then you can test it by following the Bell Engineering video on YouTube.

Nodge68 said:

If you have the bench mounted vise, then you can test it by following the Bell Engineering video on YouTube.

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And what timings indicate a good VCU?

GrumpyGel said:

And what timings indicate a good VCU?

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We don't really know, as no real research has be done on a bench tested VCU. It'll give an indication of movement of the fluid, nothing more. The 1WUT is the best test by far.

Just a brief update on this. I finally got around to taking the landy to a mechanic who knows his stuff. Turns out that the front/centre rear diff brush is damaged (although not quite at the end of its usefulness). So it WASN'T a VCU issue after all. Have had this put back on the car and VCU/drive seems ok. Cheers