Twin SU HS6s on a 2.25 petrol

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dominicbeesley

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,701
Location
Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire
I'm no carb expert but as a summer project would this be a starter?

Are there (cheap) manifolds I could get?

Any advice on setting up?

Is it a daft idea?

I'd like to go a quicker and have more torque if possible...

Cheers

Dom
 
No I've just got an old TR7 that is slowly turning to a pile of rust in the corner and wonder which bits to flog and which to keep....

Why is it that nuts its a big old engine...bigger than the one they'd be coming off...

D
 
I'm no carb expert but as a summer project would this be a starter?

Are there (cheap) manifolds I could get?

Any advice on setting up?

Is it a daft idea?

I'd like to go a quicker and have more torque if possible...

Cheers

Dom
:scratching_chin:
:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:



No, but seriously:
:crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy::crazy:
 
the landie engine is a sweet ( when set up properly ) lively little fella . If you realy want more power ,Turner enginering do a kit . Fitting the twin carbs will, if you do the exhaust and get the jetting right ,and possibly sort out the camshaft timing just make it rev like there's no tomorrow , it's not designed to be thrashed . Even less so if it's 3 bearing crank . Just my opinion , others will say i'm wrong .
 
others will say i'm wrong .

no, i dont. I wouldnt even say a word about turner or anything, as 10% more of a flies turd is still not much. that's about as much more you get.
if it's up to scratch it's fine, but it's still a reliable engine, which has a very low power to volume ratio (which is good, kinda...)
 
Well thanks for the non-advice. I'm not after revving the arse off the thing or doing anything daft, rather wanting it to have just a gnats more torque so I can go up hill in a higher gear without having to constantly change down and rev the arse off it.

I've seen others fit single HS6s so I may have a go at that but I suppose I'll have to ask elsewhere for help...

Dom
 
Got a single KIF 44 on my 2 1/4 petrol. Which is the same size as a HS6.

2 HS6 would be overkill and a bastid to build a manifold for. 2 HS6 can feed a 200 hp V8 and would make a 75 bhp engine a right bastid to set up.

In my experience you match the hp to the carb, not the enigne size, so in my case the single 1 3/4 off a 75 bhp rover metro fits on the 75 bhp landy engine just fine.

I fitted it 'cos it was there, I like SUs and I couldn't get on with the webber.

It revs smoother, has more power but it's not as instant as the webber, and is more economical.

It was dead easy to fit with just 1 adaptor plate and the needle seems to be OK (std metro one with 120K on it)

Some pics here

Land Rover - a set on Flickr

hang about here, it's useful, but keep yer toys in yer pram :p:D
 
if you only want a slight increase in torque etc then fit a 2.5 head will make it a bit more livley and if you fit the 2.5 cam then you will get a bit more power but a decent carb to match it will make a big difference but the engines are built to last not to preform down a drag strip
 
Thanks lads,

The TR7 is "only" 105 bhp which is why I thought it might not be a ridiculous match...the making manifold thing I assumed would be the difficult part but I'm not averse to a bit of metal working or getting a mate to put something through their CNC machine...

I'm loath to split the carbs up as they're worth a good amount together so I guess I might be on the lookout for something else and put the twins on ebay (though I've already canibalised the fuel pipe to fix the Landy!)

I was also thinking of a 9:1 head from ACR and a faster cam. I'm thinking of getting my head swapped to unleaded anyway as I'm sick of putting in expensive additives and am unlikely to get outside europe so the ability to run on low octane fuels is no longer relevant.

As to engine life, I'm not sure that beefing it up would be bad for it, at least not as bad as revving the balls off it to stay at 60-70mph when with a bit more torque and power I could stick the 4.7:1 diffs back on and knock the revs back by 30%. But its just too weedy to manage the hills in that configuration and I'd just end up driving everywhere in 2nd. Surely the engine is good for plenty of compression as its essentially the same as a diesel?

I'm not sure whether my engine is a 5 or 3 bearing one - does that make a difference (engine number is 90293084).

I'm sure my reasoning is probably flawed and I'd love to hear reasons why I'm wrong or other alternatives.

Having said all that I have got on very well with the Weber. I'm not sure I've got the idle mix right but it runs ok and I get reasonable mileage and it is very responsive and so far reliable...

Cheers

Dom
 
from memory , 3 bearing crank early model , 5 bearing later model . others will know . Weber carb may be of some help in your quest for POWER !:mooning: seriously , though , good luck in you endevour .
 
if you fit the 2.5 petrol head and also a 2.5 cam with a 2.6 6cyl su carb that will match your carb to the rest of the engine and also give you the extra power to comfertably run the range rover diffs
 
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