Turbo Question

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accywingy

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Just had the 90 TD5 serviced and MOT'd and it's had a bit of a whine /Scream on it of late, I put it down to the Exhaust Manifold which has been making a noise for ages (putting off the job to be honest). Anyway, I asked the garage to investigate when it was in and they reckoned the Turbo is duff, so I decided it was time to whip it all off and fit a new manifold and gasket at the same time.

It's all off now and ready for the new manifold but I'm not convinced that the turbo is duff. Is there anything obvious that I can check? The spindle has a little play but it doesn't seem excessive. I don't want to spend £300 on a recon unit to find it wasn't that. Could it have been the gasket making the racket?

The 90 is going up for sale shortly so I want to be able to sell it with confidence but not break the bank!
 
Sometimes if the gasket is split or failing in one place it can cause some strange sounds. If the turbo doesn't have play in or out it shouldn't be a problem. Mine, although on a 200tdi has a bit of wiggle, I was told it was on its way out years ago and touch wood it's been fine so unless it's really moving I wouldn't worry. Does it pull nicely as it normally would? Check rest of exhaust for holes.

Didn't think I'd be giving advice to you haha! What you replacing the Defender with :/
 
The gasket that came off was absolutely shot and the manifold was shaped like a banana! I reckon there was a 1.5 a 2mm gap at both ends and the block was covered in soot at each end. Hopefully the new manifold and J.E. engineering studs will cure it.

I've just bought a 110 County Utility so the 90 will have to go, can't afford to keep both. It's going to hurt when it does, spent thousand on it and more time than I want to think about but I need more space. Just want to get a few jobs done on it and get my number plate swapped then advertise it. I couldn't risk selling it if I thought there was anything bad on it, not on here anyway I'd get lynched :D
 
The gasket that came off was absolutely shot and the manifold was shaped like a banana! I reckon there was a 1.5 a 2mm gap at both ends and the block was covered in soot at each end. Hopefully the new manifold and J.E. engineering studs will cure it.

I've just bought a 110 County Utility so the 90 will have to go, can't afford to keep both. It's going to hurt when it does, spent thousand on it and more time than I want to think about but I need more space. Just want to get a few jobs done on it and get my number plate swapped then advertise it. I couldn't risk selling it if I thought there was anything bad on it, not on here anyway I'd get lynched :D

Ah, 110 Utilities are very nice. What engine have you got in it? Looks like you have probably fixed/found the problem.

Will look forward to seeing it at the next LZ event ;)
 
easiest way to check turbo is to feel spindle and then run engine with turbo outlet hose of if its buggered it will drip oil, with manifold i wouldnt use stronger studs as its better stud breaks
 
easiest way to check turbo is to feel spindle and then run engine with turbo outlet hose of if its buggered it will drip oil, with manifold i wouldnt use stronger studs as its better stud breaks

I always find oil in my turbo pipe (not loads but enough to notice) and was under the impression this was fairly normal? Or is it fooked? Never had any issues with it - is it a diesel runaway waiting to happen?
 
I always find oil in my turbo pipe (not loads but enough to notice) and was under the impression this was fairly normal? Or is it fooked? Never had any issues with it - is it a diesel runaway waiting to happen?

it is normal as some oil mist allways leaves the turbo but not drips or visible loss with hose off engine running
 
There is a coating of oil in my turbo pipe, but there is no movement on mine.
I was told this breather clogs up and leaks oil through the pipe which connect from it in to the turbo pipe.
IMG_5222_zps9d37d7d6.jpg

I haven't had a look at mine yet. Don't know if it's serviceable/can be cleaned or if you just replace it.
 
excess crank case pressure can effect turbo oil loss, ythough ive rarely found issues with cyclone breathers, removing filler cap when running proves whether crank case pressure is excessive, breathers do pass some oil it cant help do with oil misting but not a lot as most goes back to sump
 
I don't think so, but then I have no experience of knowing what is a lot or an acceptable amount.
This is a picture of the pipe when I was taking it off.
IMG_5015_zps452cf729.jpg


This is a picture of the inside of the intercooler fed by that pipe.
IMG_5017_zps6690b6a2.jpg


What do you reckon?
 
looks normal , but if your worried run engine with breather pipe disconnected and end in a container, also run engine with turbo outlet hose off, if you cant see anything its ok, turbos allways pass a little and breather gases allways contain oil mist
 
Cheers, James.

Not concerned now :D

Although the intercooler looks pretty clean I think I'll flush it before it goes back on. Would you recommend anything in particular to flush it?
 
Cheers, James.

Not concerned now :D

Although the intercooler looks pretty clean I think I'll flush it before it goes back on. Would you recommend anything in particular to flush it?

a quick steam clean ,shouldn be that dirty as oil mist should keep it clean, inlet manifolds are often filthy if egr is still connected as hot gas carbonises the oil mist and it builds up over time
 
Lots of people blame the turbo when in fact most oil misting comes via the engine breather circuit, ALL turbo diesel engines pass some oil one way or another.
 
Ah, 110 Utilities are very nice. What engine have you got in it? Looks like you have probably fixed/found the problem.



Will look forward to seeing it at the next LZ event ;)


It's a 2.4 Puma. First one I've driven and it seems ok. Doesn't pull like the TD5 or sound anywhere near as good but it cost a fair bit of cash to get it to that stage so there's still time.
I'm sure we will be camping at a few shows next year all being well.
 
easiest way to check turbo is to feel spindle and then run engine with turbo outlet hose of if its buggered it will drip oil, with manifold i wouldnt use stronger studs as its better stud breaks


As far as I'm aware the studs are the same tensile strength but are longer with a spacer on them. The idea is that there in more material for the heat to travel though and expand and hopefully reduce the chance of breaking the stud.

I think the damage was likely done when I had it remapped without fitting a bigger intercooler. Everything runs much cooler since fitting an Alisport unit and the new manifold has the webs removed which I hope will help too.
 
As far as I'm aware the studs are the same tensile strength but are longer with a spacer on them. The idea is that there in more material for the heat to travel though and expand and hopefully reduce the chance of breaking the stud.

I think the damage was likely done when I had it remapped without fitting a bigger intercooler. Everything runs much cooler since fitting an Alisport unit and the new manifold has the webs removed which I hope will help too.
i think your last statement is correct
 
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