Turbo Foobarred ?

Further to my earlier thread http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/over-running-issues-129261.html I removed the intercooler pipes today and found a good smear of black goo in them at the turbo end and inside the turbo too. Also when I checked the shaft for play I think I detected a small amount.

So I am now thinking that maybe the running on WAS caused by the turbo feeding it's oil into the chamber and the fact that it did eventually stop was not due to the stop solenoid but the fact that the oil that fed from the turbo was only enough to run it on for a short time. So am I right in thinking that it is probably the turbo that is pooped?

Help please guys

maybe..will be some oil in intercooler pipes and around turbo.thats due to engine breather and is normal......land rover recomend draining and cleaning intercooler each year.....

re movement..depends upon movement on turbo shaft..will have some up and down,not alot but noticable..thats fine.(unless too bad).(unless roller bearing type..not standard!!)..if has in and out then that is bad...should have none.

SHOULDNT BE LIKE THIS

customer didnt follow my instructions=fecked turbo


http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt256/5potnoise/th_****edturbo.jpg

No, definitely no in/out play only side-to-side I'm guessing less than 0.5 to 1mm max.

Someone on another forum has suggested I try running it again but with the intercooler outlet disconnected so if it runs on again and the stop solenoid doesn't cut it then it should be possible to kill it by suffocation!

The idea is to try and determine if it's running on diesel alone or on sump oil.

Any thoughts?

JB

Play on shaft should be no more than 0.003"/0.006" so 1mm is way too much. If you can feel it, it needs proper inestigation. Any roughness on spining the shaft is a bad sign, so is any sign of roughness or chipping at edges of vanes. Also let warm engine tick over for 5/10 min then boot throttle, blue smoke shows excess burning oil. If it is on the way out it may be good for a few thousand miles or could go bang tomorrow.
(the following is not trying telling grannies how to suck eggs, but a warning to any newbies).
IF it goes on the road do NOT drive on. The turbo is fed by a large high pressure oil pipe, carrying on will pump oil from the sump thro` the broken turbo. It will soon empty the sump. It can be sucked into the engine and can cause the engineto run on, even to extent of oer-revving and blowing up. Maybe worst case scenario, but Sod`s law will apply.

So what is my next step? I am really getting P'd off with this damn thing, it's been giving me grief and taking money for a year now and I'm still no nearer to being on the road

Why didn't I just go for a complete engine swap and be done with it?

Good question ! The more time `n` money we invest in our Landies the harder it is to let `em go. Sometimes we should kick `em out an` start again, but are often convinced it`s only one last little niggle to sort then nothing else will go wrong for years!
A complete engine swop with ancillaries may be good, but, obviously, only if it`s a good `un. Try the new `un in the donor before it`s taken out. A rusty MoT failure maybe?
With your current turbo get it checked by a garage or mechanic if you`re unsure. A garage looking for work may give the old "sharp intake of breath" etc, so beware. But try an` see if anyone near you can help with diagnosis. Where are you? prob not near me, but guess some-one `ll offer?

Yep, the missus has already been looking at other Landys online!

Trouble is now, as you said, a lot of money has been spent and it's a job to say is it worth 'a little bit more' or not?

Not too sure about the turbo, would definitely be best for a second opinion, so if there is anyone in the Swindon area that fancies a free cuppa (or similar ) then let me know

I really do want to get this baby running again as we do use it quite a bit (or used to )

JB