Transfer Box ??

Northern Irelander said:

There are SS cat saver nuts available in the UK. They cover the entire thread. An alternative is to cut the thread just behind the nut when fitting new M10, 17mm SS nuts.

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S'good ideas

Cheers

Blippie

Ok managed to get the Hub free (still hanging there) by two horizontal bolts. Keep the base mount of the hub in place. I'm following the Haynes Freelander book now which is quite useful. I disagree with the Haynes book with regards to removing the right driveshaft from the IRD. There is absolutely no need to remove the staking or indeed the 'driveshaft nut' from the wheel hub. In retightening, these would have required extremely high torque settings. Fortunately this step can be avoided.

Next, needed to remove the stainless steel clip from the rubber boot, (this was quite difficult so i cut mine) then the shaft can be pulled out (providing the hub is loose) and if you see a ****load of lube pourin out you've done the job.

(Apparently have to be quite careful removing/pivoting the hub or shaft / or risk breaking some joint on the front right hand drive shaft. Also (when hanging the hub) have to be wary of pulling on the ABS electronics line as well as the break fluid hose. These also needed to be clipped off to remove the two horizontal bolts (refer to top) holding the hub. Probs best to tie off the hub to the suspension mounts before full release Alternativly you can replace one of the two horizontal bolts between the hub and the suspension frame.)

The IRD connection to the gear box was quite tricky. From what I can see 2 bolts on the top and two at the bottom. Top two came off easy with a 15mm socket wrench with a steel pipe used as an extension lever. Standing on a chair next to car makes reaching in and access to this alot simpler. Use a chair by the passenger wheel side ! Climbing over the engine is uneccessary.

The IRD connection to the sump and the lower right hand engine mount was also quite difficult. Removed this enigine mount complete and the removal of the IRD drivers side bracket (which is mounting from the sump) was possible. I intend to replace this mount before removing the IRD in the morning, because there seems to be quite a bit of force still holding between the engine and the IRD despite the removal of all connecting bolts. This means any movement on the IRD is causing movement on the engine.

Still, the IRD seems quite firm in place, and I'm told a good shove moving the unit towards the drivers side is in order.

So everything is loose, and it has been ready to come out since the morning. The unit is now fully unbolted and removed from the gearbox, except that the Barstard is still firmly caged in. The below diagram is highlighting the cause of this. the first problem is the driveshaft casing (which is still fixed too the IRD) Can this be removed ? If so how ? The second problem is the lower bracket for the engine mount. These two things are making the unit a biatch to remove. The only way to solve the engine mount issue seems to be in removing the lower sub-frame (BIiiiiiatch!!) and going about this seems like a monster of a job.

Yanick you make me laugh
That is your CV housing from the driveshaft. You should have popped the shaft as a complete unit. Top marks for effort though.
Get a junior bolster or broad chisel and gently tap up where it sits against the IRD
Now go for a Fosters, I'll down an ice cold one for you

EUREKA ! ! ! !

Got the IRD out. . You know I owe a few beers over to a couple of you guys for your help, Especially to Blippie and NI. . .You know I wish there was a way to send internet beer coupons, which were globally redeemable in pubs !!

So because you are so far away I've posted a pic here which may be of future help, as I found this method for removal extremely simple. It required two Jack's one under the sump and the other (standard freelander L shaped jack) as per the diagram. (of course in doing this the car raises above the axle stands, so should keep saftey in mind with that.)

All the best fellas ! I'll let you know how I go with the IRD refurb.

Yanick said:

In relation to the above mentioned Question .. . Transfer Box ??

The answer is NO ! The answer exists somewhere in the rear wheel drive shaft. The final result being a problem with the Viscosity Coupling Unit.

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The answeris actaully YES the IRD is at fault. Pre 2001 IRD's had a design fault where LR had not given the correct gear ratio in the transfer box and is why freelanders had such a bad reputation with regard to the drive train.

To make the Freelander handle well the front wheels are driven faster than the rear wheels. To accommodate this difference a Viscous Coupling is fitted in line with the rear prop shaft, which constantly slips. On the earlier Freelander's (pre2001) this ratio difference is too great causing the viscous coupling to be overworked and thus seize solid. Once seized the front wheels fight the back wheels causing transmission wind-up this rapidly accelerates the wear on the rear diff and the IRD unit, which will cause the imminent failure of either/both. Thus be warned if you need to change your diff or your IRD the viscous coupling must also be checked and renewed if necessary to stop the problem. Transfer boxes built after 2001 did not have this problem as the gear ratio was changed.

Yanick - great work, you should have removed the rear damper and output shaft for a little extra space.


George - you mean the 0.8% difference in the ratios, its been covered here before many moons ago.

I can not be sure but the crown and pinion is the vital ratio, note thumbnail from my IRD. Its an early type note the 21/38 ratio stamped on it, not sure what the new (>01) ratio is,


can anyone confirm?

Well I am looking into ordering all the parts required inside the IRD.

Is this a worthwhile expedition ? (i.e pulling appart the box and rebuilding it?) I have found a good supllier for a reasonable price. I really want to pull appart this unit to check its condition before purchases are made, but my old man thinks its best to buy the kit before pulling it appart. Will I know what to do - to put it back together new ?

You would need to get the main shafts out and inspect the cogs. If these are shot then you are wasting your time and money.

The bearings need to be drilled with a precision/compact drill. This loosens em up a bit.

I have just purchased a Dremel drill with suitable attachments. Always wanted one, could never justify buying one.



You will also need a good set of bearing pullers and hydraulic press.

Will an 2002 - 2005 brand new IRD work in a 1998 build ?

Yes. It should have been the new ratio from day 1. LR denied there was a problem, then it was rectified >2001

Northern Irelander said:

Yes. It should have been the new ratio from day 1. LR denied there was a problem, then it was rectified >2001

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So Good news. .The replacement IRD came in today. .And amazingly I got the thing in very very easily. Firstly I used the landrover jack, as well as standard jack as per the diagram I posted Earlier - i.e. To jack the engine up as well as forward.

The trick then was to put the case on a milk crate, and slide it under the car. Then get under there and just push it up into place.

When the shaft was more or less in the gearbox, I used a piece of wood, about 1/2 metre long jammed that up into the divers side cavity between the IRD and the chasis, then levered it firm into the gear box. Be careful not to lever onto any special hoses etc. With that done. .

I replaced the top and bottom two passenger side IRD blots (4 in total). Finger tight. It says to tighten these to a special Torque setting, but I do not have the equpiment for this. . Best thing is to do them tight until you take it to the dealer and get them to double check everything.. . .

Now I'm having some trouble with the Engine bracket replacement. . .I noticed two unaccounted for bolt holes in the engine sump. .Perhaps someone can shed some light on these. .I vaguely remember them being there for no real purpose. .Perhaps they are used in the V6 model ?

Now I intend to rebuild my IRD unit. I have the new one installed, and have decided to rebuild the old as a backup or also as potential re-sale to recoup for some of the loss...In total I have spent $2000 - Despite being Taxed two VAT's by the commonwealth, one in UK and one in AUS. It still worked out cheaper where the landrover dealer was charging $3000 just for the part. Amazingly, it arrived here within 2 Days from the UK. The supplier was Paddock from Matlock. For fast international shipping from the UK I recomend them. But again, be wary of your import customs duty, and this VAT/GST system between Aus and UK.


Back to the Old Unit.

As it turned out, the old unit only required a single bearing replacement after all this halabaloo and expense. I probably would have saved myself allot of money by replacing this bearing single handedly. In order to do so, one would need a hydraulic press. But I need to get back on the road soon, and waiting is just simply a false economy. I am due to arrive in the Northern Territory in a few weeks time.

Re: Bearing numbers.

I am unsure about the part numbers for the bearings, but I can tell you the number of bearings. I hope to furnish this thread with a complete list of component photos of the IRD interior. I shall do this tomorrow.

From the beginning.

Removing the Coolant Box.

There are several tricks to opening the IRD box. I took mine to a Transmission "specialist". Soon after, I recieved a call saying that they could not open the box. So I went in there, to find that the Transmission guy had lost his cool, and was throwing the box on the ground, to somehow release the coolant box from the IRD using a chisel. I said, this box is worth at least $1000 to me FFS. And it took me a minute to open right in front of him.

If you have troubles taking off the coolant box, be no friend to the seal it sits in. Get in there with pliers and rip that Fettucine seal out - It needs to be replaced anyway. After that, you can get in there with the Hydraulic press and punch out all the parts.

Cleaning The Box and gears.
I found that mineral turpentine, with a paintbrush worked. Its important to get as much of the metal shavings out of the bearings especially right into the bearings. . .This can be difficult since the shavings are magnetised. The more you work it, the cleaner it gets. I gave it an hour or two. . Was just like doing weights at the gym.

Then after the turpentine, use boiling hot water to strip from all lubricants and degreasers. . .Even smashing the hose into those bearings is good to get some of those shavings out. I mean, the bearings are in good enough condition. After all water spraying, best to give another once down with Wd40 to eradicate the moisture.

If your bearing cup is a little worn with divets etc, it is best to replace those, because that is the begining of the end. Mine were ok, only on the one bearing which was buggered were those signs of wear n tear...

What happens, is that those divets create a bumpy ride for the bearings, and that is when it begins to end.

Will be here with more in the morning.

nice one Yanick, good to see you kept thw orig thread open, all info. in the one place.

Do you know what bearing it was, the numbers should be stamped on the outside edge

likewise I picked up a 2nd hand part for the swap over, being a daily runner I can't do without the vehicle.

Baldbryn on another forum suggested replacing the shims as a matter of course. He also suggested determining bearing loads, I asked an engineer about this, he said he had no reason to do this with bearings.

Just spoke with the dealer. . .They don't need special torque settings. All bolts simply tighten up . . .nice and tight.

Now, with the Engine/IRD bracket in place its onto replacing the CV joint.

I'm not sure about how to do this. Is there a special way of doing it ? Or just get to it with a Mallet ? Does it need new grease ?

Yes lots of the good black stuff Molybdenum Disulphide, ordinary grease will do if you're stuck.

You would be best to assemble the whole shaft to CV before fitting.

You cut the clip on the rubber boot..................correct?

You will need to get a new one, or get some fine wire, wrap around several times under tension, twist the ends, cut back the trailing ends and tuck neatly away out of sight.

Driveshaft will tap in with a mallet, dont forget to stake the flange/collar on the driveshaft nut. It needs torqued to 205Nm (really really tight). wedge a bar in through the wheel to stop the shaft/drivetrain rotating when you torque up.

You're nearly on the road again.

Northern Irelander said:

Yes lots of the good black stuff Molybdenum Disulphide, ordinary grease will do if you're stuck.

You would be best to assemble the whole shaft to CV before fitting.

You cut the clip on the rubber boot..................correct?

You will need to get a new one, or get some fine wire, wrap around several times under tension, twist the ends, cut back the trailing ends and tuck neatly away out of sight.

Driveshaft will tap in with a mallet, dont forget to stake the flange/collar on the driveshaft nut. It needs torqued to 205Nm (really really tight). wedge a bar in through the wheel to stop the shaft/drivetrain rotating when you torque up.

You're nearly on the road again.

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I didn't undo the driveshaft nut, was too hard basket. I pulled the shaft out, exposing 3 cross arranged bearings from the CV joint (in the rubber boot) without having to dismantle the whole right hand drive shaft. I think the Haynes book, made it more difficult than it needed to be. Obviously, this allowed me to get in there and take off the CV shaft, and make removal of the IRD allot easier.

Help my son has a 2002 1.8 which went bang in a big way today.
It appears the transfer box has seized and the engine tried to turn. This caused the engine mounting bolts to break and the engine to drop down in the engine bay. The engine will still run (not in gear obviously) but we dare not drive it.
Is this a correct diagnosis and if so is it best to scrap this now.

I am so glad I got rid of mine a
which was a 54 reg diesel with only 70 k on clock. Worse car I have ever owned in 50+ years on the road. Land Rover should buy all these back and melt them.