Transfer box swap – 30 mm flange nut removal

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Dibdab

Dibdab

Member
Posts
23
Hoping to replace the transfer box on my 2000 td5 110 this weekend with one from a discovery 1 300 Tdi.
Both have the cable operated handbrake
Thought I would make a start last night and take the drum off the donor box - Instant fail, the drum just keeps spinning round when I try to get a grip on the 30mm nut

All the 'how to' s describe removing the nut from the transfer box in situ applying the handbrake etc

Does this mean I've got to leave the drum on my donor box, fit it like that, then swap back to my own drum (but then I believe the cable is different so I won't be able to apply it?)

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
Dibdab said:
Hoping to replace the transfer box on my 2000 td5 110 this weekend with one from a discovery 1 300 Tdi.
Both have the cable operated handbrake
Thought I would make a start last night and take the drum off the donor box - Instant fail, the drum just keeps spinning round when I try to get a grip on the 30mm nut

All the 'how to' s describe removing the nut from the transfer box in situ applying the handbrake etc

Does this mean I've got to leave the drum on my donor box, fit it like that, then swap back to my own drum (but then I believe the cable is different so I won't be able to apply it?)

Any ideas?

Thanks
Click to expand...
a battery or air gun would sort it, but failing those put box in diff lock and put a bar through the bolts on front flange to stop the flange from turning
 
Thanks James, the diff lock option sounds good

The diff lock (and High/low) seem very stiff on the donor box - I figure it's just because they don't have the fulcrum/ lever effect.
Okay to tap the switch over with a …hammer - Or try and wedge/pry

Sorry – also, would you recommend taking off the PTO cover and removing the input gear? to fit the new box or just try and stick it on and see first

Thank you
 
Dibdab said:
Thanks James, the diff lock option sounds good

The diff lock (and High/low) seem very stiff on the donor box - I figure it's just because they don't have the fulcrum/ lever effect.
Okay to tap the switch over with a …hammer - Or try and wedge/pry

Sorry – also, would you recommend taking off the PTO cover and removing the input gear? to fit the new box or just try and stick it on and see first

Thank you
Click to expand...
you can use a 13mm spanner on the nut on the diff lock spigot, its better to leave input gear in as it centralises shaft ,you run the risks of disturbing the seal with it out, if your fitting the t/box to a g/box which is in the car leave box in difflock and in high or low so you can turn the drum to align input gear splines with g/box
 
The 30mm bolt is no bother to loosen on bench by jamming the prop nuts with a bar and using a socket.

This technique is demonstrated by land rover toolbox videos on YouTube on his excellent rebuild videos.
 
Thanks for the advice guys, I was able to do the job a couple of weekends ago - Took my time and it all seems to have worked okay. Very, very happy with the results.

Just another question, the defender transfer box had a weight/counterbalance (Square with quadrant cut out of it) bolted on just before the handbrake drum.

The discovery transfer box seems to work very well without it… Was it needed?
 
neilly said:
So why did his 110 td5 have one fitted? or did they come with them fitted as well? or are you saying his 110 tbox is not original to his 110 and came from a D2?

Cheers
Click to expand...
they may be fitted to others ive only noticed them on d2s, if he doesnt notice any vibration it wont matter it not been fitted
 
Sorry just spotted the last post…
Mine did have a cable operated handbrake and the weight thing.
The disco box had the cable operated handbrake and no weight thing.

It was a 1.4 transfer box and looked age appropriate

Sort of imagined it was another one of those things that somebody thought would be a good idea to stick on , that wasn't really necessary…

… Seems to work fine without it
 
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