Transfer Box refurb

Been looking at a few used units on fleabay, mine has a bit (quite a bit) of slop in it, not the worst, but not great.

Wanting to put a 100% unit in, looked at recon units, and wondered if it would be worth getting a cheap/used unit from somewhere and rebuilding it myself.

any special tools needed? how hard would it be to do, providing the existing one doesnt get worse quickly, there would be no rush to get the rebuild done.

Bearing in mind the cost of a recon would be £550 (with a warrenty), not sure on a used (got a few in the watch list) plus recon parts (and no warrenty), is it worth it??

the only special tools are those to remove /refit bearings ,ie puller set ,usually you need 2 x frc5564 ,2 x stc3185 ,1 x 606474 , 1 x frc7871 ,2 x stc1130 ,2 x ftc4939, 1 x icv100000, 4 x frc6968 and new input gear if not cross drilled

Have a 1.4 t/box here that i was thinking of doing the same to.... be interested to see what people say!

I'm going doing the same to either a 1.2 or 1.4 transfer box I have so I'll have perfect transfer and main gearboxes to go in because I'm not going to be removing the pricks of things anytime soon after I change the gearbox that's in it at the moment.

Rebuild kits from Ashcroft with the heavy duty cross-pins are only about 150-200 quid depending if you need a new input gear which isn't bad for having more or less a new transfer box when done.

Could spend upto 400 or 500 though if you went for all the rebuild parts and wanted all the bells and whistles with the bigger sump and atb center diff

pullers arent that expensive, looks like it may be a go, cheers for the parts list James, that saves a bit of messing about.
Ill be seeing what they go for first, if its gonna cost me 250/300 for a second hand box, and another 150/200 for bits a warrentied recon is £550 depends on how much i can save by doing it mesen.

Hi is holding on side of the pto flange and turning the other pto flange a good indication of slop.has anyone done this on a recon or new box before fitting,just as a guide when buying one.

timtheenchanteruk said:

pullers arent that expensive, looks like it may be a go, cheers for the parts list James, that saves a bit of messing about.
Ill be seeing what they go for first, if its gonna cost me 250/300 for a second hand box, and another 150/200 for bits a warrentied recon is £550 depends on how much i can save by doing it mesen.

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Ill give ya a ring later, I got my mate one for less than £100

saccy said:

Hi is holding on side of the pto flange and turning the other pto flange a good indication of slop.has anyone done this on a recon or new box before fitting,just as a guide when buying one.

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I would think that would highlight the play in the Centre diff, I'm fairly sure it's the brass thrust washers that disintegrate on the diff cross pins that causes that play and brass particle in the oil, input gear on shaft would be the other if as previously said it's not a cross drilled one

I plumped for an Ashcroft box with their LSD Centre diff in so no washers to wear out...

jpfour said:

I would think that would highlight the play in the Centre diff, I'm fairly sure it's the brass thrust washers that disintegrate on the diff cross pins that causes that play and brass particle in the oil, input gear on shaft would be the other if as previously said it's not a cross drilled one

I plumped for an Ashcroft box with their LSD Centre diff in so no washers to wear out...

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washer and pins do wear ,both are easily replaced and sun gear washers are selectable to get preload of diff correct,lsd diff can wear

I guess the LSD wears the helical gears?

jpfour said:

I guess the LSD wears the helical gears?

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i dont know what type of lsd center diff ashcroft use , but lrs lt95 lsd was just sprung loaded friction discs

Ashcroft one is Torsen type

I guess it must wear as effectively they work on slightly mismatched gears however hardened gears should take far far longer to wear out than the brass bushes

Here's hoping anyhow as their not cheap!

jpfour said:

I guess it must wear as effectively they work on slightly mismatched gears however hardened gears should take far far longer to wear out than the brass bushes

Here's hoping anyhow as their not cheap!

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still use friction but would be longer lasting ,but std doesnt do too bad considering we are generally talking way past 10 year old vehicles

A torsen diff should generally outlast most vehicles really so wouldn't worry about that once general service and maintenance on the box is done.

agreed about the wear on the open diff. Unless you are constantly spinning wheels with the diff-lock open or spend your life constantly turning around in tight circles, I doubt you'd have to worry too much about how long a new set of bushes will last.