transfer box output flange prop bolts - Help!

I doubt the handbrake drum was causing it, but it's easy enough to leave the adjuster slack and go for a test run. If it continues then you look elsewhere. Since I haven't heard the humming, it's not a diff-like sound is it? do you get a clunking from low speed changes of direction too? eg when parking? Maybe leave the rear prop off for a test drive and see what happens to the sound (obv you can't leave both props off at the same time lol)

I find acetone on the brake pads helps get the leaked oil off efficiently btw

Ratae said:

Forgot to mention, item 11 (FRC2464) in the pic is a felt washer. Stops oil passing down the splines. I'm led to believe some use silicone sealant instead but I use the felt washer.

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Thanks. Did you lock her up with a tool or and I safe to lock centre diff and undo/ re torque? I can make a tool if I need to

romanrob said:

I doubt the handbrake drum was causing it, but it's easy enough to leave the adjuster slack and go for a test run. If it continues then you look elsewhere. Since I haven't heard the humming, it's not a diff-like sound is it? do you get a clunking from low speed changes of direction too? eg when parking? Maybe leave the rear prop off for a test drive and see what happens to the sound (obv you can't leave both props off at the same time lol)

I find acetone on the brake pads helps get the leaked oil off efficiently btw

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Thanks rob, I don’t know to be honest. It doesn’t give any noise low speed or turning (guess you may be wondering cv also). It’s no louder than my music (which I have loud in defender lol) and I’d describe is as I byplane in the distance! No clunking and not noticeable until 40. If I take up to 60 and let off I get that drone/hum down to 40. It’s a bit similar to a wheel bearing noise.
Am I still ok to test at speed with fwd only and I assume as normally 4wd I can use normal gears to test?

I know my propshaft joints are going when I get a noise or slight sense of vibration at about 50. The one I replaced at Christmas was giving me a lot of noise on the overrun too. A tiny bit of movement at one of the universal joints can give a lot of vibration. If you put it in difflock it's quite happy driving on one proshaft for a test run, but I wouldn't recommend it for a long journey.

Brown said:

I know my propshaft joints are going when I get a noise or slight sense of vibration at about 50. The one I replaced at Christmas was giving me a lot of noise on the overrun too. A tiny bit of movement at one of the universal joints can give a lot of vibration. If you put it in difflock it's quite happy driving on one proshaft for a test run, but I wouldn't recommend it for a long journey.

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Thanks brown. It’s definitely uj/prop symptoms isn’t it! I have old props off and I couldn’t find any play but who knows when ujs were last changed so my first call was to treat to new props and build up a spare set. That way it was only an hours work and it wouldn’t be off the road! Luckily, working from home 90% of time since lockdown means I can leave it for a few days whilst parts arrive.

If I need to hold the flange still while doing up the nuts that hold them on I just put a bar through the bolts. They're only 3/8" UNF but I've never bent one doing so. Some people make tools, but I've never needed to. A C shaped bit of metal plate with holes in the right places for the bolts, with a handle welded on usually suffices.

So if this noise occurs over 40mph, are you always in 5th gear at that point? Have you tested if the noise is there in both 4th & 5th? if it goes away/reduces in 4th it may be the rear support bearings in the R380.

But as per the other thread my money is on t-box bearings - especially if there's been a prolonged leak that could've caused oil starvation.

Does it in 4th too mate. Could be! When I drained a decent amount came out - must've been 2 litres. I'd have no idea how to be sure its transfer box though without eliminating all else it could be first. The plan was always to fit a 1.2 but I didn't want to do that until I did the clutch and the cost for clutch replacement is over a grand without the cost of transfer box.

resto_d1 said:

Thanks. Did you lock her up with a tool or and I safe to lock centre diff and undo/ re torque? I can make a tool if I need to

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I've done all the transfer box & axle input/output seals on mine over the years & the axle flange nuts were particularly tight so I made up a tool to deal with it.
It's a 3' length of angle iron with a half moon shape & two holes drilled to accept two of the flange bolts.
The half moon is to give clear access to the main flange nut. The other end sits on the floor to stop turning & I've never had a problem getting a nut undone - or torqued up - on the transfer box or axle diffs.
Could be shorter but it means it still goes against the ground if the car is jacked up to give better access for gearbox (ZF auto in mine) & transfer box removal.

I’m sure I have a 1.2 transfer box in the shed. But WILL need a rebuild due to finding a bearing race floating in the oil.
shout if you want it. (No rush it’s been there a year)

Ratae said:

I've done all the transfer box & axle input/output seals on mine over the years & the axle flange nuts were particularly tight so I made up a tool to deal with it.
It's a 3' length of angle iron with a half moon shape & two holes drilled to accept two of the flange bolts.
The half moon is to give clear access to the main flange nut. The other end sits on the floor to stop turning & I've never had a problem getting a nut undone - or torqued up.
Could be shorter but it means it still goes against the ground if the car is jacked up to give better access for gearbox (ZF auto in mine) & transfer box removal.

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Thanks - that's what I had in mind!!

Hicap phill said:

I’m sure I have a 1.2 transfer box in the shed. But WILL need a rebuild due to finding a bearing race floating in the oil.
shout if you want it. (No rush it’s been there a year)

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Cheers Phil. I may order an Ashcroft one if the noise is still that but I cant be sure it is transfer box as I need to be doing higher speed in high gear to cause the symptoms and don't want to be doing that in difflock?

I also don't want to swap the transfer box without doing the clutch and rear crank seal.

Any chance I could borrow you for a Sunday if I get a crane and get a hand doing the lot up at the yard?! I'd give you beer tokens as the quote I've had on the clutch is 1200 inclusive of clutch and DMF and its surely going to end up more like 2k with a transfer box. I think I could do the clutch myself but never done one on a LR!

I could then remove the box totally, fit new transfer box to mean gearbox, and slap the lot in with a new clutch?

I had a little pot I was keeping aside incase I need an AMC head but if this issue isn't easily solved it seems the above may be likely!!

Check if it does it in low range, same revs on 4/5. Shot t-case bearings often get noisier in low.

resto_d1 said:

Cheers Phil. I may order an Ashcroft one if the noise is still that but I cant be sure it is transfer box as I need to be doing higher speed in high gear to cause the symptoms and don't want to be doing that in difflock

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Just put in low, diff isn’t locked,

Gearbox would turn slower but transfer box would get up to “problem” speed at a lower road speed.

Don’t know what it would rule out if still there but worth an experiment. Need a thunk about that


J

That’s what happens when you go for a wee, second again

marjon said:

Just put in low, diff isn’t locked,

Gearbox would turn slower but transfer box would get up to “problem” speed at a lower road speed.

Don’t know what it would rule out if still there but worth an experiment. Need a thunk about that


J

That’s what happens when you go for a wee, second again

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yeah sorry was getting muddled between removing one prop

I’ve had bm, Audi, Subaru, trucks and lots of jap stuff and thibk this is the most a cars ever cost me in a few months

On a brighter note (pun intended), my new headlights came 10 mins ago and they threw in a work light as a gift!! They won’t be to everyone’s taste but I don’t care and need to be able to see in deepest darkest wales!
Back on topic. My plan....

flange kit is already ordered so:

1. drain t box and fit flange kit
2. Fit rear prop and test drive (without handbrake fitted)
3. Pray it’s cured it
4. If it hasn’t, get second opinion on noise??
5. If tbox, painfully open wallet and get clutch Kit, rear crank seal, And 1.2 t box from ashcroft
6. Pray that the head holds out as that’s what my money was aside for!

resto_d1 said:

flange kit is already ordered so:

1. drain t box and fit flange kit
2. Fit rear prop and test drive (without handbrake fitted)
3. Pray it’s cured it
4. If it hasn’t, get second opinion on noise??
5. If tbox, painfully open wallet and get clutch Kit, rear crank seal, And 1.2 t box from ashcroft
6. Pray that the head holds out as that’s what my money was aside for!

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Surely in between 2 & 3 should be if problem still there remove rear prop and fit front prop, test.

But at least you have a plan, till the next one.

J

marjon said:

Surely in between 2 & 3 should be if problem still there remove rear prop and fit front prop, test.

But at least you have a plan, till the next one.

J

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ahh yes your right. Also, not sure if it’s worth me ordering an output bearing but I don’t have a slide hammer to remove!!!

resto_d1 said:

ahh yes your right. Also, not sure if it’s worth me ordering an output bearing but I don’t have a slide hammer to remove!!!

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Out put for TB? Why?
If 1 is gone how many others could be suspect? so go back to the whole refurb.

I would stick with trying to narrow it down at the moment, you have some suspects. Let’s hope 1 of them is your issue. Let’s face it the LT230 is supposedly bulletproof. (It is a tough little thing)
Just as an out of box, if you know your clutch needs replacement is the spigot bearing ok? Could that be it?
I have no idea but just throwing ideas in before expensive rebuilds.

J

Thank you. Common sense and experience stops me getting it all wrapped around my bollocks!

Tool worked a treat. Made it long and locked it into the kerb. I bought a lidl parkside impact wrench a while back. It’s undone decades old radius arm bolts and just whipped this off no fuss. Bearing looks nice and lubed. All seals and flange off awaiting courier