transfer box output flange prop bolts - Help!

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resto_d1

Well-Known Member
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3,686
Location
Wiltshire
Hi All
I'm finding dangerous bodge after dangerous bodge on this car - all by 'reputable specialist'... More on that later.

I am a bit stumped - I had a bit of a hum/vibration and was fairly sure it would be props/UJ's. I'm trying to get it spot on so I ordered two new props.

Upon removal of the rear, I realised handbrake drum was catching really slightly, however, I reckon enough to cause a hum.

I removed the handbrake case, found the whole lot dripping in oil - rear output flange seal on transfer box. The vehicle actually failed its mot on its handbrake - there were brand new shoes in there. However, as per many items, rather than addressing the transfer box leak - they just threw new shoes in!!!

The strangest part of this, and I believe it was done at the same time will be shown in a following picture. The bolts for the output flange that secures the diff to it were tack welded on. 0 penetration, all welds broken. I'm surprised I managed to get the prop off.

How are these bolts usually secured as when looking for a new flange and seal kit, the bolt holes aren't threaded?
output flange.JPG

@jamesmartin, @Hicap phill @dieseldog69 - no doubt you've all done this job...

Thank you
 
looking at diagrams, it seems the bolts are held in place by a circlip. I've ordered new bolts, flange kit, circlip etc. I changed transfer box oil at the weekend ffs!

There's no guarantee that this fixes my hum also but clearly needs rectifying.
 
marjon said:
They are bolts 1 flat goes up against the inner part so they can’t turn and a big circlip holds them so they stay poking out.


I think from looking at manual;):).

J
Click to expand...

thanks mate - that’s how it works at front end so this obviously has wrong bolts and no circlip. The people I bought from are unbelievable. They replaced the handbrake shoes knowing the seal was leaking and knowing those bolts were like that. Everything they’ve touched is bodged. I reported all I found to them before this and never got a response. I will be putting a thread up on them. Cnuts
 
Your making it sound like it’s a garage and peeps pay for thier handiwork :mad: that’s not good.

J
 
marjon said:
Your making it sound like it’s a garage and peeps pay for thier handiwork :mad: that’s not good.

J
Click to expand...
They are a Land Rover specialist. On top of this, I had a puma wheel forced onto my Td5 steering shaft (after they asked if I’d rather have a leather wheel so they did it), I took for alignment and the garage checked my wheel and it span on the shaft with nut loosened!
I had fuel come over top of tank. I took back and they refitted a seal but I soon discovered the fuel pump wiring was twiddled together with no gauze - resulted in pump failure.
There’s actually bodges all over that I’m trying to remedy and uncover
 
Hicap phill said:
+1 with @marjon on circlip
I know it’s another expense but what about disk handbrake? (Oil drips on the floor not on the shoes)
Click to expand...
Cheers. I’ve ordered the bits to repair this now so maybe in future. Lost as to why its humming. There could be many routes. The handbrake was just slightly scuffing but that’s probably enough to cause it I think! Props were good with no movement in ujs or on splines that I could tell. Never mind - means it’s got fresh stuff on again and that I can build a couple spares up to keep aside
 
Hicap phill said:
You sure it’s not an electric relay hum?
Click to expand...

nope. It’s drivetrain. It isn’t bad until 40-70. Very noticeable when you lift off at 60 in 5th. Almost sounds like a byplane drone. I feel it at my feet every now and then and was fairly sure it would be the prop. I’m hoping it’s this handbrake sticking
 
Normally a prop causes this.
Put the drum back on without the shoes & fit a prop & take for a drive.

make sure you get the prop sliders the correct way to the axles
 
resto_d1 said:
They are a Land Rover specialist. On top of this, I had a puma wheel forced onto my Td5 steering shaft (after they asked if I’d rather have a leather wheel so they did it), I took for alignment and the garage checked my wheel and it span on the shaft with nut loosened!
I had fuel come over top of tank. I took back and they refitted a seal but I soon discovered the fuel pump wiring was twiddled together with no gauze - resulted in pump failure.
There’s actually bodges all over that I’m trying to remedy and uncover
Click to expand...

That’s dangerous stuff they do not just a little Diy bodge then. Not good.

J
 
I have had to tack the odd one before (neater than that) as they can sometimes still spin on the flange, but there should be a circlip holding them. It's something you might do yourself but not on a customer's vehicle!!
 
You've probably already worked it out but it's items 8, 9 &10 in this pic.
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/78358/78512/6218 Some numbers have been superceded but google usually shows the new number.
As already said, the bolts are stopped from falling out by the circlip which goes in the groove you can see just behind the flange & are prevented from turning by one flat sitting against the flange. Without the clip they wouldn't project sufficiently when you fit the brake drum to get the nuts on.
Seal replacement is a common job, done it a couple of times on my RRC. While you've got it apart check the part of the flange where the seal seals. If it's damaged or well worn you'll never get it to seal. If that's the case either replace or use a speedi-sleeve.
Get a good quality seal. The cheapies in some of the kits are crap.
 
Last edited:
Forgot to mention, item 11 (FRC2464) in the pic is a felt washer. Stops oil passing down the splines. I'm led to believe some use silicone sealant instead but I use the felt washer.
 
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