Traction Control???

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Pumping the brake pedal 10 times in the first 10 seconds after the ignition is turned on diasables the traction control until vehicle speed reaches 4mph, then TC is enabled again. This will power the yellow TC, yellow ABS and yellow HDC fail lamps on the dash until it's moving at 4mph, to help with fault finding the lamps.
 
Pumping the brake pedal 10 times in the first 10 seconds after the ignition is turned on diasables the traction control until vehicle speed reaches 4mph, then TC is enabled again. This will power the yellow TC, yellow ABS and yellow HDC fail lamps on the dash until it's moving at 4mph, to help with fault finding the lamps.

Thank you very much Mr Hippo :)
 
real long shot but are all the not working lamps on the same circuit ? if so is it pos that the plug/loom has come apart / not connected behind the dash
 
Bit of an update.

I have checked the abs fuse and all is ok,

Have taken the instrument cluster out, it looks like it has been opened up before as the yellow seal sticker is broken, the HDC yellow LED has been mullered with someone levering against it.

I forgot to do the pedal thing that Hippo suggested, I shall try that tomorrow

Have just bought a second hand one from Bexhill freelanders on ebay for £18 incl P+P

On a different note, I've been having problems with my rev counter not working, found out it wasn't secured properly on the circuit board with the lugs behind the dial so must have been getting an intermittent signal
 
Last edited:
All is restored to its former glory......

IMAG0638.jpg


IMAG0637.jpg


A few things though....obviously the led bulbs were blown to the traction, ABS and yellow HDC lights

The actual ABS Traction and HDC wern't working

The only thing I've done is changed the instrument cluster and now all of the above work as they should including the warning lamps

So has the instrument cluster in some way got something to do with them actually working?
 
Last edited:
When you changed the cluster I assume you changed the whole thing. If so did the correct mileage reappear on the display after?
 
its only five thousand difference I wouldn't worry. the same 3 lights on mine arnt working properly either but mines been tampered with by a previous owner to disguise the fact the abs has stopped working .a test showed my o/s/f wheel speed sensor was not working and a new one is £200 so im going to try one of ebay for £20 see if that cures it
 
i had that when i bought my L series in 2012

the sensors on ebay are great i used them but please look at the seller if its autosense ( think thats right) he is very unhelpful has he had a batch of faulty front sensors and wouldnt have it
 
I'm not sure if it is the same on the Freelander but on my 300 TDI Disco there is a ABS diagnostic socket where you can short 2 pins out and when you turn the ignition on and press a swicth or something in a certain sequence - the ABS warning light flashes the fault codes at you.

A bit of trivia - I bought my Disco as an MOT failure becuase the ABS light was on, the chap had owned it 5 years and had always used his local garage who quite openly refused to do anything electronic as they didn't have the experience or equpiment. So he took it to the LR main dealer who told him it needed a new ABS modulator at £840 + fitting + VAT - hence is auctioned it on ebay as an MOT failure. Using the above method I found there was only one fault and it was the main power relay. This was in the passenger footwell fusebox and was full of water is it mounts upside down and the windscreen was leaking. Genuine LR part was less than £10 - then all working. The LR dealer would have taken £1500 off him and still not fixed the fault....
 
thanks the seller is called rtgroup11 it sounds like a motor factors ill give one a go .I had the fault codes pulled at a friends mot station there was a few stored all wheel speed sensors ,no live feed from ecu , and when we did the drive test none of the wheels showed an increase in speed so he cleared the codes and the only one that came up after that was c1032 faulty osf wheel speed sensor so ill try that and check the reluctor ring then its a second hand abs pump/modulator. I don't want to give up as iv just put a new clutch/flywheel in it.hope its nothing to do with me taking the prop off which I did because one of the vcu carrier bearings is notchy
 
If you fitted aclutch you may have damaged the reluctor ring I woukd order one of them and do bith at same time

Plugif u have the cv removed ready for new ring then drilling out ur sensor wont be half as bad as u dnthave to be careful of how deep u drill
 
yes I was thinking of doing them both at the same time. id rather take the hub of and change the sensor on the bench than ****ing about under the car looks easy enough to remove
 
Back
Top