tracking question?

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harry2012

Active Member
Posts
654
Just been to get the tracking done on my 110 and they say they can't do it because the drag link rod is seized and they can't adjust it.

Is that correct? I just thought the tracking was set by the trackrod behind the front axle???
 
No they need to use the drag link to adjust it as well. This sets the toe for the passenger side wheel then the track rod adjusts the drivers wheel. In theory anyway
 
Ok so they can get the tracking set ok just using the trackrod (the front wheels are toeing out) if the drag link is totally seized, worst case I might need to remove the steering wheel to get it straight.

I'm still baffled as to why adjusting the steering box has caused these issues with the tracking!
 
I'm assuming they shouldn't fit the thing that holds the steering wheel centred to do the tracking either.
 
You dont centre the steering wheel, you centre the steering box.
You might get the tracking right using only the track rod but to set the steering up properly you need to be able to adjust the drag link.

If your steering isnt set up properly get a new drag link or try and get the original moving and set it up properly, I can give you a step by step if you want.
 
How do I ensure the steering box is centred?

The step by step guide would be good :)

First take the vehicle to a flat place and drive it so the wheels are going straight forward.
Take out one end of your drag link and turn the steering wheel all the way to the right (clockwise) until it stops (only the drop arm is turning since the linkage is disconnected).
Turn the steering wheel two full turns back to the left. This is where the drop arm should now be when driving straight forward--don't change this adjustment when reconnecting the linkage.

Now, loosen the ball joints so that you can adjust the length of the drag link between the ball joints.
Adjust the drag link so that it goes back in without the tires or the drag link changing position.
This is the centred position.
If your steering wheel is not in the right position, remove it and get it as close as possible.
Now you can slightly adjust the drag link to re-centre the steering wheel, but try and only adjust this very slightly...

...on top of the steering box is either a flat head screw with a locknut or an allen screw with a locknut.
Loosen the locknut and tighten the screw until there is no play in the box. To do this, grab the input shaft and turn it with your hand (it will be a little difficult, but you will be able to feel the play much better than using the steering wheel).
Tighten the nut until the play is taken in, but go no further.
While holding the allen/screw, retighten the locknut.
Recheck the play.

That is all there is to it....
 
How you adjust it depends on if your using string and guess work or a proper 4 wheel alignment setep.
First take the vehicle to a flat place and drive it so the wheels are going straight forward.

If your tracking is not right...your wheels will not be straight :) Thats a guide using the string/guess work method. :) Fine if your using £50 worth of tyres but for biggies at £1k a set get it done right.

With our super tracker 4 wheel computer powered aligner.....set the steering box in the middle/straight using the pin in the slot at the back of the arm. Adjust nsf wheel using drag link (front) until in green sone. adjust osf wheel using track rod (rear) until in green zone.

You probably wont get a tyre place to heat a trackrod....they dont want any blame for melting rubbers etc etc. They dont heat anything around hear anyway.
 
First take the vehicle to a flat place and drive it so the wheels are going straight forward.
Take out one end of your drag link and turn the steering wheel all the way to the right (clockwise) until it stops (only the drop arm is turning since the linkage is disconnected).
Turn the steering wheel two full turns back to the left. This is where the drop arm should now be when driving straight forward--don't change this adjustment when reconnecting the linkage.

Now, loosen the ball joints so that you can adjust the length of the drag link between the ball joints.
Adjust the drag link so that it goes back in without the tires or the drag link changing position.
This is the centred position.
If your steering wheel is not in the right position, remove it and get it as close as possible.
Now you can slightly adjust the drag link to re-centre the steering wheel, but try and only adjust this very slightly...

...on top of the steering box is either a flat head screw with a locknut or an allen screw with a locknut.
Loosen the locknut and tighten the screw until there is no play in the box. To do this, grab the input shaft and turn it with your hand (it will be a little difficult, but you will be able to feel the play much better than using the steering wheel).
Tighten the nut until the play is taken in, but go no further.
While holding the allen/screw, retighten the locknut.
Recheck the play.

That is all there is to it....

You centre the steering box via a pin in the back of the box, not by turning the wheel two full locks nor do you adjust the steering wheel via the drag link. There is too much room for error doing it like that and it will never be right.

I'll do a step by step later tonight if I get a chance fella.
 
How you adjust it depends on if your using string and guess work or a proper 4 wheel alignment setep.


If your tracking is not right...your wheels will not be straight :) Thats a guide using the string/guess work method. :) Fine if your using £50 worth of tyres but for biggies at £1k a set get it done right.

With our super tracker 4 wheel computer powered aligner.....set the steering box in the middle/straight using the pin in the slot at the back of the arm. Adjust nsf wheel using drag link (front) until in green sone. adjust osf wheel using track rod (rear) until in green zone.

You probably wont get a tyre place to heat a trackrod....they dont want any blame for melting rubbers etc etc. They dont heat anything around hear anyway.

Shame your up noorf, I need my Saab done on a 4 wheel alignment machine. Out of curiosity how much do you charge? its a 100 quid down these parts give or take a few pennies.
 
not all steering drop arms have pin slot to center, in which case you do turn lock to lock and find center (full lock to lock is about 3 and 3/4 turns ), the best way is to get tracking done first ,then center pas box ,then center steering wheel ,either by removing and refitting wheel or at the ujs at pas box , once steering wheel is centered with pas box take vehicle for a run note position of steering wheel when road wheels are running straight ,adjust drag link to center steering wheel , recheck up the road again, fine tune if needed, pas box has a center tight spot either side of center ,free play appears increasing to both full locks
 
not all steering drop arms have pin slot to center, in which case you do turn lock to lock and find center (full lock to lock is about 3 and 3/4 turns ), the best way is to get tracking done first ,then center pas box ,then center steering wheel ,either by removing and refitting wheel or at the ujs at pas box , once steering wheel is centered with pas box take vehicle for a run note position of steering wheel when road wheels are running straight ,adjust drag link to center steering wheel , recheck up the road again, fine tune if needed, pas box has a center tight spot either side of center ,free play appears increasing to both full locks

Not all pitman arms have a slot, you are right there just as not all boxes have the centralising slot/hole either, nor do all steering shafts allow for adjustment via the universal joints. But this would be the first thing to look for, you cant just assume the box and arm cant be centralised via a pin.
It would help if we knew what kind of box was fitted to the OP's vehicle but if the box and arm can be locked via a pin it will be fairly obvious.
 
ujs are, if box end isnt the other end will be ,but if steering wheel comes off its easier

I worked on a ninety in the shop not too long ago that needed setting up, steering shaft could only be built up one way, there was no adjustment in it at all, the box did have the ability to be centralised via a pin though..
 
some pas boxes do have a flat meaning only one position but from the factory one of the other splines was variable , if you have pin slot use it if not count turns , it doesnt really matter as long as box is centralised due to center tight spot
 
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