1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. Welcome To LandyZone!

    LandyZone is the biggest Land Rover forum on the net. We have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.

    Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!

Towbar wiring

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by p7rns, Jan 19, 2010.

  1. p7rns

    p7rns New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    Posts:
    33
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    South Shields
    Evening all,

    I've part fitted a towbar to my td4 tonight, however, I've come to a halt at the wiring (partly cos its freezing out there) .

    The kit came with some scotch blocks to connect up the wiring, however, I've found a spare connecting plug (behind the rear side panel and next to the plugs that connect up the rear light) the wires that go into it are Black, Red and black, Green and red and Red and yellow along one side and Green and red, Red and yellow and green and white along the other.

    Is that for the trailer or do I just look for matching colours on the loom and get scotch blocking ?
     
  2. hippolover

    hippolover New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2007
    Posts:
    672
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Perthshire
    The white socket on the right is for the tail lights. You can get a prewired plug for it from a breakers and connect it straight on if you don't want to cut into your own wiring. Something else to note is that there are blanked off holes in the floor of the car to run the wires straight through rather than get the 13mm drill out. There should also be a second plug which is for the auxiliary white trailer socket. Make sure you get the right one (although I think it's on the other side of the car - it is on the P38 RR anyway).
     
  3. freelance

    freelance Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2009
    Posts:
    3,194
    Likes Received:
    125
    Location:
    essex and beyond
    if you look in q and a all the wires you need are on a post (by optimus prime i believe)
     
  4. freelance

    freelance Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2009
    Posts:
    3,194
    Likes Received:
    125
    Location:
    essex and beyond
    no it was redhand, and ably assisted by mhm.and its in common faults and questions
     
  5. ianda12

    ianda12 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2006
    Posts:
    819
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Gravesend, Kent
  6. tonyt37

    tonyt37 Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2009
    Posts:
    224
    Likes Received:
    0
    I have fitted towbars on 2 different Freelanders. The first used scotchblocks and on another car the one I got just plugged in. If you prgrade the flasher relay you may even get the trailer light on the dash to flash when the trailer is connected. Page 2 of Ianda's link has a bit about the relay that I posted before. I don't think there is a plug for the secondary socket as mentioned previously. I bought a Genuine LR secondary kit (£20 from ebay). Some of the connections plugged between the loom and lighting cables but needed the loom running right to the battery and to the fuse box in the cabin. Tw@t of a job! but no poxy split charge relay
     
  7. TD John

    TD John New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2008
    Posts:
    343
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Essex
    Hi, Done the '12S' socket thing on our TD4 for pikey wagon.
    Looked at the LR kit but went another way.
    Fitted a PRC4427 (LR voltage sensing relay driver from Ebay around £5), a HD relay, some fuses and a few lengths of 2.5mm wiring front to back inside a 10mm flexi-conduit under the freeby alongside the path the fuel lines take to the rear nearside of the towbar.
    Fitted the power feed from the spare 6mm hole on the battery clamp, in-line fuses as in attached diagram, bolted PRC and relay onto spare studs on suspension turret under ECU. Used plenty of sleeving over exposed wires (flexi-conduit, Ebay again, right up to relay) and conduit right up to 12S. Plenty of cable ties to hold it up and no interfering with the wiring inside motor.
    Pull the one fuse and all power is cut.
    Gives a good 12 volts at the socket and cuts the 'charging' feeds when the voltage at the battery falls below 13.5/14 volts. :)
    Picked up the reversing, brake light and fog feeds at the rear and fitted relays so as not to load the cars wiring and fed power to relays from the AUX feed from split charge to trailer. Any faults on trailer wiring (except indicators) will not kill car circuits only trailer.
    Worked for me.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 21, 2010