tow bar

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essexpestcontrol

essexpestcontrol

New Member
Posts
484
Location
grays, essex
hi all,
yes I've done a search, but wanted a recommendation on suppliers, I'm after a towbar, now if I'm right in thinking, it looks a fairly simply bolt on affair, but looking on e bay there's so many to choose from, I want the one with the plug already fitted, as I'm crap with electrics, I'm presuming they simply plus into the loom in rear of car, job done??? or am I hoping for too much?

so, who's fitted one recently, and was it that easy, and where did you buy from
 
if you can get the ones with the plug on the end they fit behind the drivers side back panel in the boot I sure it is any how . and I prefer the british tow bar the one with the ball that bolts on as you can take it off and put other things on there as the swan neck one you can not hope this helps
 
I fitted a Witter detachable tow bar a couple of months ago.

Very simple. 8 bolts.

Electrics... I ignored what came with the kit and bought a plug in one. Converted to 13pin as 13 pin so much more reliable. Even that was easy-just downloaded instructions from the 'net.
 
I got a genuine one second hand of ebay , Came with bolts & single electric's cable/plug , Easy to fit bolts strait on leaving the towing eye in place , Electric plug is behind drivers side rear plastic panel in boot , It hidden slightly as it's in one of the hole there plugged into a bracket .

Land Rover Freelander 1 towbar - twin socket genuine LR part - STC7997 | eBay

Pleanty on ebay I payed £80 years ago gave it a rub down & some hammerite paint and its been fine since :)

This thread has the fitting instructions - Get on with the bolts & electric cable with plug , You will also need a new 6 way relay in drivers glovebox area ?
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/towbar-fitting-instructions-51094.html
 
Last edited:
DTO said:
I got a genuine one second hand of ebay , Came with bolts & single electric's cable/plug , Easy to fit bolts strait on leaving the towing eye in place , Electric plug is behind drivers side rear plastic panel in boot , It hidden slightly as it's in one of the hole there plugged into a bracket .

Land Rover Freelander 1 towbar - twin socket genuine LR part - STC7997 | eBay

Pleanty on ebay I payed £80 years ago gave it a rub down & some hammerite paint and its been fine since :)

This thread has the fitting instructions - Get on with the bolts & electric cable with plug , You will also need a new 6 way relay in drivers glovebox area ?
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/towbar-fitting-instructions-51094.html
Click to expand...

I looked at getting a SH bar of eBay but decided to buy new for a couple of quid more. I couldn't see the point in getting something that.
A might not be complete or
B needed painting before fitting.
Often the electrics in SH bars are goosed so you would need to spend more on sockets, wiring and stuff.
I'm more than pleased with my budget bar that as it turns out was a Whitter bar Anyway. It came complete with ball and fitting kit, wiring, sounder and all bolts required.
 
Nodge68 said:
I looked at getting a SH bar of eBay but decided to buy new for a couple of quid more. I couldn't see the point in getting something that.
A might not be complete or
B needed painting before fitting.
Often the electrics in SH bars are goosed so you would need to spend more on sockets, wiring and stuff.
I'm more than pleased with my budget bar that as it turns out was a Whitter bar Anyway. It came complete with ball and fitting kit, wiring, sounder and all bolts required.
Click to expand...

Im normally the same, but in my search, found one just up the road from me in a breakers inc all bolts and electrics with plug, and guaranteed all for £35, ok it needs a lick of paint, but its probably only going to get used once, for towing a caravan into our woodland
 
I had to run a 10mm tap through the captive threads on the LHS, they would not accept any bolts otherwise, the threads being full of rust and crap.
If you have to do this, don't use those cheap "carbon steel" taps as many of them are not even the right diameter. Fitting a 10mm nut will show if they are correct or not. I threw mine away.
I have a set of tungsten steel ones and they go through like butter using a small flat spanner to drive them. It's a pity those unused holes weren't taped over.
 
radio521 said:
I had to run a 10mm tap through the captive threads on the LHS, they would not accept any bolts otherwise, the threads being full of rust and crap.
If you have to do this, don't use those cheap "carbon steel" taps as many of them are not even the right diameter. Fitting a 10mm nut will show if they are correct or not. I threw mine away.
I have a set of tungsten steel ones and they go through like butter using a small flat spanner to drive them. It's a pity those unused holes weren't taped over.
Click to expand...

I'd have thought it'd be on by now...
 
yup, mine got put on the day it came, plugged straight in, lovely jubbly, checked it all worked on our small trailer, then picked up a cheap caravan and towed it home, finished a few jobs to it, and will be towing it into our woods on Saturday, sorted

camo caravan - YouTube
 
Ive got a hoop and pin with ball ontop my trailer has high ground clearance (defender axle and springs i think) if uve got/going for anything similar some type of swan neck wojld be advisable as mine even with a plate to lift the ball/pin the trailor still rides a bit nose down..
 
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